This pattern was in my to do list since last summer. Simplicity 8608 is a really popular pattern among seamstresses all over the world, especially view A, the dress with short sleeves and flounces. So, when I first saw this Beautiful Satin Fabric at Minerva I was sure what I wanted to sew with it.
I am in love with flounces so I decided immediately to sew view A of the pattern that I really like so much. This view has a lot of pattern pieces but I was determined to give it a try!
After having washed the fabric, I cut it. As usual, I cut a different size for the bodice (size 14) and a different size for the skirt piece (size 16). This is an adjustment I am making with almost every pattern I use because of my body measurements. At this point I have to mention that a big disadvantage of the pattern is that you can’t lengthen or shorten either the bodice pieces or the skirt pieces and that means that since I am 1.70m tall it was determined to be a mini dress.
I don’t like mini dresses so much and I don’t feel so comfortable wearing them… Actually I have to wear such a short dress since I was a student at university but I have to admit that I liked the way it finally came out. Usually I am wearing midi dresses and skirts as I find them more elegant!
The sewing process itself was simple since all constructions on leaflet are given precisely. You have to spend a lot of time to create the flounces though… As many seamstresses already have done before me, I omitted the elastic on waist and I used only the sash.
If I would ever decide to sew this pattern again? Yes, of course! But I would choose to use the bodice of view A with flounces and another skirt pattern that will be longer.
Please feel free to share with me your experience of the pattern if you have sewn it!
Until next time,
I have another fun hack! First things first: I am a wuss who cannot handle a turtleneck for longer than 20 minutes (I get claustrophobic!). When I posted about that on Instagram, I heard back from a lot of you who feel the same way. Lucky for all of us, adding a keyhole neckline is a super easy tweak to make to the True Bias Nikko, or any other turtleneck pattern! It worked great in this Lady McElroy Jersey Fabric, because it has nice body without being too bulky or heavy or saggy. I’m not sure how this would work in a ponte or bamboo, so proceed with caution (but definitely proceed! I’m curious). This is SUCH a fun way to show off a print - I love, love, love how nutty this one is. It reminds me of all the barbed wire and tribal tattoos from the 90’s, but still manages to look a little ladylike. I’m not sure HOW, but it’s so fun, and makes me feel like a million bucks.
1. First off, you’re going to cut a facing for the front neck. I just took a scrap and traced the neckline, because I think it’s easier to cut away the excess after stitching. You want your facing to be large enough to completely cover the area you’re going to cut.
a. If you REALLY want to go above and beyond, you could stitch a shelf bra in! I would trace the neck, shoulders, and entire armscye for the facing, plus a couple of inches on the bottom (if you want to really do it right and add elastic). You can do the back too, if you want more support.
2. Draw a line down the center front - this marks your neck slit. I did 4 inches, which hit about an inch or so below my collarbone (technically, my suprasternal notch, according to my MD sister, for those of you who value precision). In the future, I’m going to do 5”, because I’m a sassy lass.
3. Pin the facing in place at the neck, right sides together. You want to be sure it doesn’t wiggle or shift around, so take your time, and be careful.
4. Here’s the hardest part (and the part I don’t have a decent picture of, I’m sorry!): stitch around the line you drew. I did a super scant ¼” seam allowance. When you get to the end of the line, you can either pivot and sew across at the point, or taper to the point - if you pivot, you’ll get a wider keyhole than if you taper, which will create more of a slash. Don’t forget to use a lightning or zigzag stitch! It’s a stretchy knit, and you don’t want your stitches to break!
5. Cut straight down the line you marked, being careful not to snip through your stitches. Be brave!
6. Turn the facing to the inside, clipping where necessary (if you squared the bottom of the line, you’ll want to snip in an upside down Y shape, snipping as close to the corners as you can).
7. Topstitch it in place. I did a scant inch. And I was sloppy. Perfection is an illusion, don’t stress. :)
a. A note: I didn’t turn the edges of the facing, because it’s a knit and won’t fray. You can, but it may add some bulk.
8. Trim away the excess facing on the inside.
You’ll sew your shoulders together next, following the instructions on the pattern.
To install the collar, you’ll fold it in half, right sides together, and stitch the ends to themselves (not together! We don’t want a turtleneck, remember!). Happily, the Nikko is drafted with a slightly diagonal finish on the ends, which makes a nice shape at the collar, but you can square it up, if that’s your preference. Turn it right side out, and stitch to the neckline, matching centers and ends. Topstitch it down if you want (I did). Finally, add a hook and eye to keep it closed, and finish your dress!
A few months ago, I received the Samantha Dress pattern to review from Athina Kakou’s pattern company; AK Patterns. I made it up pretty quickly and admittedly, I missed a feature out and didn’t spend enough time on finishing the seams as I was way too excited to get it finished. Needless to say, I wore it a couple of times and quickly realized that I needed to make another Samantha dress but this time around, slow down and make it properly!
When browsing the Minerva email, this John Kaldor Jersey Fabric caught my eye straight away. With florals aside, this abstract geometric style is exactly the type of print that I love to wear. I saw that it was a polyester knit, which is a fabric that I don’t have too much experience with so I was excited to try it out. Due to the polyester content, I knew that the fabric would be quite soft and slinky. I initially had a couple of ideas in mind but I’m trying to be better at not buying and hoarding patterns without using them, so I really wanted to use a pattern that I already had in my collection. And that is where the AK Patterns Samantha dress came in! I feel like this fabric could also be perfect for some type of robe or duster style cardigan. Also, because of the lovely drape, it’s definitely perfect for any knit dress pattern that has an element of swish to it.
The dress has a wrap style bodice, and different options for the neckline, sleeves and skirt length. So many options! I chose to make a short sleeve, short skirt version with the sleeve ties. With the first Samantha dress that I made, I omitted the sleeve ties completely but quickly realized that I wanted them on my next version. I actually really liked how they were constructed too. The sleeve just neatly slotted into the gap in the tie and then topstitched into place…it definitely made me regret not putting them on my first version with how simple they were!
The shape of the skirt really compliments this knit fabric. It has excellent twirling capacity! On the first version, I overlocked the bodice to the skirt and left it at that. However, after wearing it a couple of times I noticed that the overlocked seam was starting to stretch out a little. Presumably because of the skirt fabric pulling down on the bodice. For this version, I stitched the bodice and skirt together with a regular straight stitch and then overlocked the edges, just to neaten them up a little on the inside. I’ve already noticed that this method seems to be a lot more stable so it’s something that I need to keep doing in future projects too.
This dress is one of the most comfortable I’ve ever made. The wrap part of the bodice is just where I like it; not too low. The waist is stretchy and the fabric is soft. All winning features for me!
When I was about 12 years old I bought a pair of denim pedal pushers from ‘BAY TRADING’ (who remembers that one?) they turned my legs blue when they got wet but I absolutely loved them! In fact I remember my best friend Holly had a pair too, and we both lived in them, every day for a whole summer!
Anyway, when I recently made a pair of Jessa Shorts I had a sudden brain wave to make a skinny knee length pair, just like those pedal pushers I loved so much as a kid!
Jessa is one of the more recent patterns released from Tilly & The Buttons, and they come with a choice of long trousers or shorts. This Indigo Stretch Denim from Minerva crafts is perfect for either version, and also perfect for my hack!
To begin with I tried on the pair of Jessa shorts that I made previously and measured down from where they finished to where I wanted my new pair to finish, then added on 2 inches for the turn up. You don’t need to have made the regular shorts to do this, you can of course just estimate from the pattern pieces how much to add, and for reference, I added 10 inches. I would recommend adding more than you think you need to, as you can always chop some off the bottom once you’ve got far enough to try them on to check the length.
I cut out the pieces as normal, but I just continued the line of the shorts straight down by the extra 10 inches. I didn’t worry about shaping them at this point. If you’re planning to do a turn up like I did, you won’t need to cut out the cuff pieces (I forgot this and did it anyway!)
Once all your pieces are cut, you can begin construction in the normal way, including your choice of pockets. The Jessa pattern comes with the option of front and/or back patch pocket as well as a faux front pocket. I opted for two matching patch pockets on the back because I knew that front pockets wouldn’t work so well on a tight fitting pair, and lets face it I love just casually hanging around with my hands in my back pockets as you do!
Just like any pair of jeans you can use the Jessa pattern with this stretch denim to show off some awesome contrast top stitching! You can go traditional using a mustard or rust coloured thread, or go wild and use hot pink like I did!
Once the legs are assembled and the zip is in (before attaching the waist band) try your shorts on to check the fit around the hips and waist. If you’re happy you can go ahead and pop the waistband in, or do the next step and attach the waistband last (that’s what I did!)
To work out the right fit on the legs, I turned the shorts inside out and pinned in place from the hips down following the curve of my leg. Now this is not an exact science by any means, but to try to get this even on both sides, I took the shorts off and did a little bit of measuring from the side seam at various intervals to ensure the lines I had pinned were roughly even. I then drew this line in with some chalk, before sewing. To sew this new line, I started at the hip on the side seam I had initially sewn, and tried to keep a nice smooth line of stitching.
I did then try the shorts on again, and decided to pull them in a little tighter still, so I just pinned again and drew a slightly different curve and again picked up the existing stitch line, and continued it smoothly along to the new line.
Once I was happy with the fit, I finished the waistband as per the pattern instructions, and instead of adding the cuff to the bottom, I just turned the hem up 1 inch to the right side, then 1 inch again, and stitched in place down the side seams.
I am so happy with the finished fit! These are the exact shorts I pictured and hoped for!
Thanks for reading! I hope this blog inspires someone else to try this hack, do reach out to me at Notions of a Dressmaker on Instagram or Facebook if you do! Or if you want to see more of my makes, you can find me on Instagram @notions_of_a_dressmaker or check out my website www.notionsofadressmaker.com.
Until next time!
Posted in Projects on Monday the 16th December 2019 by Vicki Ormerod
Hello, all! It’s time for part 5 of my 7-part wardrobe module series. If you are new to the wardrobe module concept, you can find out all the details on my YouTube channel, Tomkat Stitchery. So far, we have talked about the dress, both bottoms, and the first of the three tops (with a bonus skirt included). Today, I wanted to talk about possibly the most versatile piece in the entire collection, the Breton style t-shirt.
All in all, my style choices seem to lean more toward the traditional or the classic. I find that I gravitate more towards these classic silhouettes than the trendier options. With that in mind, I knew that my little wardrobe had to include a Breton style striped top. My first choice when picking fabric for t-shirts is almost always a cotton with some spandex. I find this substrate to have just the right amount of body and recovery. Another thing to consider when making this style of top, is whether the strips are knitted into the fabric or just printed onto the fabric. My preference is always to buy knits that have the stripe knitted into the fabric. This ensures that your stripes are on grain and make both cutting out and sewing the top a breeze. This Organic Cotton Jersey Fabric was just the right amount of all these requirements. While I chose the mint green colorway for this module, I am VERY tempted to purchase the remaining the colors as this fabric is just that good.
After picking my fabric, the pattern was a simple pick. I made the Sew Over It Edie Top, from their Work To Weekend Ebook, right after the release of the book. It is a standard t-shirt with a boat neck neckline, but what I really love about the top is that the neckline is as straight across the front as your typical boat neck. There is a slight dip in the front neckline which I very much appreciate. It was a perfect pairing.
The construction of this top is extremely straight forward and it takes no time at all to whip up. Despite its simplicity, this top is an absolute must in any of my wardrobe modules. Not only does this look great as is, it also looks just as amazing tucked in and layered under a wide assortment of toppers. I just love it with the Brando Jacket from this module.
Another thing that I really appreciate about this top is that while it is very classic in its silhouette and pattern choice, the color makes it a bit unexpected. While typical Breton tops come in a navy, red or black colorway, I love the look in this gorgeous pastel.
I’m very excited to take this top from warmer weather to cooler days. I think this mint green will be just as relevant in the middle of winter as it would be in mid-July. It’s truly a year-round staple!
Until next time!
Whitney (aka TomKat Stitchery)
Posted in Projects on Sunday the 15th December 2019 by Vicki Ormerod
Wow another hit again when Lady McElroy Fabric arrived - #happypost as I call it. I loved the colours, green stripes and blue with mini mustard stripes alongside. Also the raised white self stripe with a little mini crinkle to the fabric = a hit! It feels and looks lovely. I knew instantly which pattern I was going to use.
Simplicity Pattern 8658 is one of the hacking range and I have made the high low version with grilled sleeves twice and found it comfortable to wear. This time the planned version was long sleeves with an elastic cuff and side splits.
The stripes ran across the fabric horizontal to the grain so I broke all the rules and cut against the grain but with the stripes as I wanted vertical stripes.
I added 2 inches to the sleeves as I have long arms and 1 inch to shirt length, this may get cut off again. I ended up cutting 1 inch off the sleeves as these were too long so I noted this down for next time making this top.
The fabric was a dream to cut and pin, it stayed where it needed to and did not slip. It was beautiful to handle. Very quickly I pinned the sleeves to the body and all 4 pieces started to become 1.
I used matching white thread for stitching and on my overlocker.
The fabric made up very quickly with no unpicking and no silly mistakes. Soon I was working on the side seams and opening using my Bernina 580 sewing machine and yet again edgestitch 10c foot to get even top stitching. I also embroidered an arrow above the split.
I wanted to add a flash of different colours so after checking out my stash I found a small amount of floral bias binding which I used in the neck binding. There was not enough for both side splits so I made a decision to add some to each side just in one side. OMG the front one on the back flap. I zigzagged this in place and I was happy with the result . This wizzes up so quickly I didn’t even iron. A bit naughty but the fabric sat where I wanted each time. Soon I was hand sewing a chain loop for the back opening and a lovely bright green button. Rain stopped play for photos for a few days then I got to play with my new remote selfie tripod thingy which is a cool gadget.
I have enough fabric left to make another little top as I always get spare fabric to help if any mishaps happen, where spare is needed. And as I cut this out differently I think this saved fabric - win win!
Check out my Instagram @vintageshabbyoneofakind to see more of my makes and what I made from the remaining fabric.
See you next time and thanks for reading. Don’t forget to get some of this lovely fabric quickly before it sells out as it’s fantastic to sew with and a hit with me.
Hi Everyone! I'm Meinhilde from kikucorner.com, and today I am sharing a dress I sewed using Minerva's Printed Cotton Fabric in the grey colourway.
I used this beautiful printed cotton to sew my first ever shirtdress!
For the pattern, I used McCall’s 7351 and sewed view D. I don’t like handkerchief hemlines (they look sloppy to me) and I like a full skirt. This shirtdress has a pointed collar and front bands, fitted bodice, back pleat, self-lined yoke, forward shoulder seams, French darts, and a narrow hem. View D has a flared skirt cut on a crosswise grain, short sleeves, and side seam pockets.
The fabric was really easy to work with; it's a 100% cotton, medium-weight broadcloth. It didn’t shift when cutting or sewing, and it presses well. I really love the Japanese print featuring koi and sakura. The fabric is available in a couple other colourways, but I liked the pale grey best.
To sew the dress, I cut out view D and used the bodice pieces for a d-cup. This pattern is great because it has separate pattern pieces for A, B, C, and D cups, meaning I don’t need to do an FBA! I made no other fit changes and I think it fits pretty well! One hiccup that I encountered was that my fabric wasn’t wide enough to cut the back skirt piece! The skirt for view D is rather large and meant to be cut on the fold (no back seam because this is a shirt dress!). To work around this, I pieced the back skirt with fabric scraps, making sure everything aligned on the grain, and then sewed the skirt as directed. With the busy fabric print, I can barely notice the pieced seams!
I used an expanding sewing gauge that I bought recently to place the buttonholes. This tool makes the buttonhole placement really easy: I just made sure I had a button right at the point where a normal shirt might strain at the bust and waist, and the rest were spaced evenly everywhere else. I was also able to use my Singer buttonholer attachment to make the 11 buttonholes, and it worked a treat! I have several other shirts and shirtdresses in my queue now that I know I can make presentable buttonholes. Even my brother requested that I sew a shirt for him!
This was the first time I sewed a collar. The instructions included in the pattern seemed fine, but I know that in sewing there is always more than one way to do something. So I started researching how to sew a good collar. I ended up following most of the instructions for how to sew a collar the easy way on a Kalle shirt from Closet Case Patterns. However, I found these instructions after I had already cut out all my pattern pieces, so I skipped the part about sewing the top and undercollar pieces, and just used the M7351 pattern instructions for that. I also just topstitched using regular thread, since I thought the busy fabric print might negate the need for very visible topstitching. This easy way of assembling the collar has you sew the collar, attach the stand to the shirt, then sew the collar to the stand and shirt, before topstitching. I found this was a good way for me to get everything straight and neat. For sure, however, I will try the other way of adding a collar to see which one I prefer. Once that collar was installed, everything else was a breeze. I made the 11 buttonholes and sewed on 11 buttons. I used some white, plastic, flower-shaped buttons that echoed the sakura print of the fabric. Since my set of buttons came as 12, I sewed the last button to the hem as a replacement button if I ever lose one.
I really took my time with this dress, researching new techniques and practicing on fabric scraps. I also finished all the inside seams either with rayon seam binding or bias binding from my stash. I love the pretty guts and how there are no loose threads or raw edges!
I’m really happy with how this shirtdress turned out, and I love the fabric print as well! I definitely see myself sewing at least one other shirtdress using this pattern.
Thanks for reading,
Meinhilde @ kikucorner.com
I’m back once again, showcasing some beautiful Jersey Fabric with the help of my insanely adorable model.
I loved this project so much and the finished garment is one of my favourites to date, it’s the perfect autumn accessory.
I am unhealthily obsessed with anything to do with sloths, seeing this fabric containing them in sunglasses on surfboards was almost too much, I knew I had to have some!
The fabric truly is a thing of beauty it’s so luxuriously soft and the colours are so vivid, pictures don’t do it justice. With autumn drawing in and the weather being at that frustrating in-between stage of hot with chilly winds, I wanted to make something that would keep the breeze off yet not lead to overheating. This combination was perfect. With the main element of the fabric being cotton I knew it would be breathable and feel wonderful against his skin.
I tackled the vast majority of construction with my overlocker which made the whole process a lot easier. The hems are all finished using contrasting fabric so the only time I needed to use my sewing machine was for the topstitching and the pockets.
This was a lovely fabric to work with, which isn’t always the case with knits but due to it being such high-quality material it made the whole process a breeze. The seams matched nicely and I didn’t need to use too many clips.
I don’t often work with jersey as my go to is wovens, but fabric like this reminds me what I’m missing out on. Minerva never fails to deliver top quality products and this is no exception.
I love Brindle and Twig patterns, the instructions are easy to follow, and the designs are beautiful. I chose their Retro Cardigan pattern for this fabric and the two were a match made in heaven. It was such a simple construction, I managed to sew it up in an evening. The process would have been a lot quicker, but my walking foot decided to break at a very inconvenient time.
This fabric worked so beautifully as a cardigan, but it would also work great for a range of garments. I have a little left and I’m thinking of making my boy matching joggers (watch this space). I’m tempted to buy some more and make myself a pair of Hudson pants, the more I think about it the more I know it has to happen!
This fabric would work in so many styles, from rompers to t-shirts. The design is fabulous, it makes me smile every time I look at it.
This ultra-soft cotton jersey is ideal for making children’s clothes. It sits so gently against his sensitive skin and keeps him warm without over-heating, I couldn’t ask for more.
I’m not always fussy about fabric quality when making clothing for myself but I wont compromise when it comes to fabric for my child. I know I’m always in safe hands with Minerva as they only provide top quality products.
This cotton jersey has the most beautiful feel and great recovery, I know my child will put it through its paces but I’m confident it will take whatever he throws at it and remain in the same great condition it started out in.
If you’d like to check out any of my other makes, check out my Instagram @thischarmingmake
Happy sewing x
For my second Minerva project I chose this lovely Lady McElroy Textured Ponte Roma Fabric. I love the vibrant color. The fabric has great recovery and washed very well.
As with my previous Minerva Makers project, a video of the fabric was provided on the Minerva website. This was very helpful when deciding what pattern to sew with this knit. Having watched the video I was not disappointed when I received my package in the mail. The quality of the fabric was beautiful and I knew it would be a joy to sew. Vogue 8665 was my choice of pattern to showcase the texture of this fabric. The dress can be sewn in stable knits or wovens. This medium weight knit was perfect for this pattern. The dress flows gracefully when walking. It’s not too heavy or too flimsy.
The construction of this dress was a breeze and would be appropriate for a beginner sewist. I basted the seams before sewing them on the machine to see if any adjustments were needed. I made my usual Vogue size 8 without any alterations. I chose to omit the zipper. There’s no need for a zipper when using a knit for this pattern. The dress slips on and off comfortably without it. I used packaged bias tape for the neckline and armscye as per the recommendation of the pattern. I like the stability that the packaged binding provided without adding any bulk. You could use knit fabric to create your own binding if you prefer this finish. I usually make my own binding but I feared this fabric with its texture might create a binding that was too thick when sewn to the dress. Now that the dress is finished I think it would have been fine.
The princess seams combined with the flared skirt create a flattering dress. One of the benefits to sewing this pattern in a stable knit is that the hem did not “drop” over time the way a woven fabric would have. By the time I hemmed the dress, the hemline was still as straight as when I originally sewed it. The neckline is simple and well-designed. I like the way it curves downward in the back.
The cap sleeves were another design feature that attracted me to this pattern. Anyone who follows my blog knows that I can’t resist a good twirl.
When shopping for fabric I find myself mostly attracted to prints though I’m always on the lookout for an interesting solid. The texture and rich color of this fabric are wonderful and serve to remind me that solids can be just as interesting as prints.
I love this style of dress. It can easily be dressed up or down depending on your accessories. I’m thinking of sewing this pattern in black as it would be a versatile little black dress to have in my closet. Depending on your fabric choice it can also be a great transition piece as it pairs well with a jacket or cardigan.
Lucy @ myloveaffairwithsewing.com
Baking has always been one of my favourite parts of the Christmas season, and I find that having special equipment or garments that come out only during the holidays make the preparations even more enjoyable. These little aprons are this year’s Christmas presents for my friends’ children – as they live in a different country it’s difficult to sew anything that requires fitting, so aprons are a safe and easy choice. They will grow with the children (who are currently between 2 and 4 years old) and are a quick make that can be endlessly personalised. I used this cute star-printed Christmas Cotton Fabric as a base with a scrap of red fabric left over from a previous project for the pockets, together with a tiny bit of Bondaweb and 1.5cm wide grosgrain ribbon for the ties.
I started with designing the pockets – these are not overly capacious, but I reckon they’re big enough to fit a handful of snacks. They are 14cm in width and 9cm on the side, and widen to 12cm in the middle.
I ironed each side inwards by 1cm except for the upper opening edge which has a double 1cm hem. My pocket fabric was stiffer than the apron fabric (I think it’s a leftover upholstery cotton twill) which held the folds well but was slightly more challenging to topstitch later on. You could iron the pocket after the appliqué has been attached but I wanted to have a better idea about the proportions and position of the letters with the hems turned in, and they didn’t get in the way of the stitching later.
This part is of course completely optional and will depend on how much time you want to spend on the project, as these bits get rather fiddly. I considered full names but ultimately decided to just go for initials, as I always think it’s better to have one neat detail rather than attempt too much and mess things up (at least when it comes to selfless sewing).
Those of you who are more artistic or have a steadier hand than me could probably freehand the letters but I prefer using Word templates. These were Cooper Black bold font in the size 140 and printed in light grey to save toner, as I found that this font was a bit more interesting than plain sans serif but wasn’t too difficult to work with.
I cut out the paper patterns, transferred to fabric and cut them out – if you are tracing from the wrong side, don’t forget to flip your letters so that they are the right way up in the end. Last part is the bondaweb and as its role is to simply hold the fabric in place before stitching, there is no need to be overly precise. I also made sure the bondaweb is sightly smaller and there were no bits peeking out from underneath the fabric.
I gently ironed the fabric into the middle of the pocket pieces with the bondaweb sandwitched in-between the layers. The last step is to topstich the appliqués down, and this is pretty much the only mildly difficult part of this whole project. I used a zigzag stitch with 3x0.8 stitch length/width and practiced on a few scraps – the only trick is to go slowly and keep in mind where your needle will go in the next stitch.
The apron dimensions come from an older issue of Simply Sewing Magazine, but I adapted the design to suit the fabric and overall look I had in mind. The original pattern uses a fat quarter but as I was working with a full metre of fabric and planned several aprons, I made a very simple paper pattern. This starts with a rectangle measuring 53x23cm. I then decided which corner will make the ‘armholes’, and from there made a mark 11cm on the short side and 22cm on the long side. I connected them using a French curve, but you can definitely eyeball this.
I cut my aprons on fold on the side without the ‘armhole’ and ironed each piece. I was a bit worried about this fabric as the golden stars have glitter on them, but I pre-washed it without any issues and it didn’t leave any marks when I ironed it on medium heat (without a press cloth), so I’m confident it will hold well for many Christmases to come.
I first hemmed the lower straight edge and the two curved ‘armhole’ pieces, each with about 1cm double hem that was machine topstitched. Then it was time for the ribbon ties – 50cm for the neck and two 75cm ones for the sides. The remaining hems were ironed, and the ribbons sandwiched underneath the hems before they were topstitched as well. Make sure the neck ribbon is not warped before pinning it in place.
In order to strengthen the ties as well as to prevent them from warping the hems, I topstitched each of the ribbons flat at the very end of the hem.
My ribbon was also prone to fraying so I folded the ends over twice and machine topstitched them (yes this would be neater if done by hand but frankly no child will ever notice the difference).
All that remained was to add the pocket to the front of the apron. I positioned mine about 9cm from the top edge and pinned it in place. They were topstitched in matching thread in two rows, just to keep them nice and secure.
And that’s it! Christmas baking for young and old can commence.