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Red cotton Belladone dress

The colour red demands attention. It positively screams look at ME! Just look at 1950s movie starlets and see how many wore their red lipstick with pride. And how damned good it looks!

It's not a colour I wear a lot of. For years my hair was red toned, so red clothes might have looked a bit OTT. And I didn't always want to draw that much attention to myself.

But my hair has gone a bit darker and with the amount of tattoo coverage I have, I can't exactly hope to fade into the background. So it's time to welcome red back into my wardrobe.

This cotton is a good place to start. It's woven with a black thread which means it isn't startling red, it's a more subtle if such a thing is possible.

The contrasting thread in this Fabric means it has a lovely pattern woven into it.

The fabric itself is lovely and light. And it feels amazing on the skin.

As soon as I saw it I knew I wanted to make something quite simple. With fabric like this, there's no need to complicate things with a fussy pattern with fussy details.

So I decided to make the Deer and Doe Belladone Dress.

This dress has 2 variations, one has an open back and the other has a simple back. I knew straight away I wanted to make the simpler of the two.

It's a very simple pattern to sew up. This could easily be done in a couple of hours. But I wanted to use my French seam knowledge since the fabric is quite light. I even French seamed the pockets which I think looks awesome.

I don't think I've ever done such a neat pocket. And the French seam means it's reinforced. Bonus.

The very fact that this dress has pockets makes it a winner in my opinion. But the shape itself is very simple and flattering. There are a few darts and a couple of simple pleats in the skirt. Perfect for the office.

And can I just take a minute to feel pretty happy with the zip? It's not perfect and the waistband is slightly misaligned. But sometimes you have to just take a deep breath and get over it. This was one of those occasions.

One of the things that makes this dress such a simple see is that there aren't any facings on the neck or armholes. Instead it's just a bias binding. And nobody said they have to be boring did they?

This last pic was taken after the dress had been worn and washed. I didn't iron it because I decided I love the texture the fabric has taken on.

I know I'm going to love wearing this dress. It feels amazing on. The fabric is beautifully light and feels great on my skin.

The colour is beautiful and I think I might introduce more red into my wardrobe. But I don't think I'm ready for scarlet lips just yet.

Thanks for reading,

Karen @ dorisdoesdressup

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Paprika Patterns Jade skirt and Opal Cardigan

With the cooler weather arriving, I was very pleased to find this Luxury Ponte Fabric in denim blue at Minerva. I liked the idea of a whole outfit but didn’t want it to look too matchy matchy. After much thought I finally settled on the Jade skirt and Opal cardigan, both from Paprika Patterns.

The Jade skirt is a unique pattern with a zig-zag folded front that is cleverly secured to a lining. The ponte fabric was a lovely weight for the skirt and behaved nicely when I was forming the many folds. I lined the skirt with some lightweight knit fabric from my stash to reduce bulk.

The back of the skirt is plain and is also lined.

The skirt can be made in two lengths. This is the longer one. I am 5 foot 9 for reference.

The opal cardigan can be made in different lengths and with different neckline, pocket and sleeve options. I chose the middle of the three lengths, the curved neckline and the long sleeves. As luck would have it, the length turned out almost exactly the same as the skirt, making it look completely intentional!

The cardigan is a simple design with nice, big pockets. The ponte fabric was great for this style as it’s so easy to work with and has a lovely, subtle sheen that is very attractive. It also has a nice amount of stretch, which was great for the skirt and cardigan.

The back of the cardigan is plain and cosy!

I am very pleased with my new outfit. The fabric is silky and cosy and the colour is beautiful. I would love to try out some of the other colours in this fabric to make more things for my winter wardrobe.

Thanks for reading,

Megan @ meggipeg

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Wool Crepe Palazzo Trousers

Hi everyone, Its Liz here from Liz Sews.
This week I have for you a smashing pair of palazzo trousers made from Poly Wool Crepe Suiting Fabric. The fabric is 45% wool, dyed and finished in Yorkshire, which gives it a lovely drape. The polyester content helped the pants survive a 3-hour car ride with very little wrinkles. At first, I was drawn to the Mustard colorway but common sense prevailed and I selected Brown instead. I think I’ll get a lot more wear of them this way. The fabric has that slight crimped texture indicative of crepe and a mottled coloring.
The fabric itself is fairly lightweight and effortless while still having enough body for trousers. Its perfect for this time of year when the summer heat is sill lingering but Pumpkin Spice Latte season is upon us. Luckily it also happens to be the one weekend a year that the Aspens start turning. Lining the fabric would help its versatility to last into the cooler winter months. Given I was planning to make such wide leg trousers I opted to forego the lining as I can always through a base layer on underneath if needed.
Before making the trousers, I overlocked the cut edges and threw the fabric into the washer on medium heat and let it air dry. I got very little shrinkage which was surprising to me given its fiber content. Its airy weave let the fabric dry quickly and didn’t require any pressing before cutting in. Given the fabrics propensity for resisting wrinkles I was a little apprehensive how the front pleats would turn out. Rest assured the fabric presses like a dream and holds any crease you place. I did use a silk organza pressing cloth never letting the iron touch the fabric directly. Taking the time for details like this make all the difference in the finished garment.
For these trousers I used the Vogue Pattern 9257 View D which recommends suiting, linen blends, or seersucker, however crepe suiting worked just as well!  I did have to make some pattern adjustments to fit me. I added 1” in the front crotch rise and 2” in the seat rise. I trued up the seems by slashing almost to the crotch curve and then pivoting and overlapping the pieces by 1” on the outer leg seam.  Rise is always an issue with me so if you normally don’t need to adjust it than you should be fine as is.
I also added another 3” to the overall length of the pant which allowed me to get a nice wide hem for a better hang. I appreciated the fact this “very easy” pattern included a curved waistband because straight waist bands never sit right on me.
I am very happy with how these trousers turned out and I think the fabric makes them a perfect addition to my autumn wardrobe, though I don’t think I would choose to hike in them next time!
Thanks for reading,
Elizabeth @ Liz Sews
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McCall’s 7510 Emerald Crepe Top

Hi there sewing enthusiasts! I’m back again to show you what I have been making with Minerva’s Polyester Crepe Fabric this month.
To be honest, in complete ignorance of this fabric, I expected it to be a bit like normal crepe but was surprised to find the blend is much more like Polyester with a softer, non shiny surface. It’s almost a bit like lining fabric - same sort of great drape but with slightly more weight. I chose a lovely emerald green colour.
I often watch the Sewing Quarter on television and I’d recently seen the McCall’s 7510 Pattern made up in a normal polyester with just the same sort of drape. So I thought I would give that pattern a go. I chose view A which has the short flutter cold shoulder sleeve. The pattern has a good choice of sleeve types - normal long sleeves with cold shoulder and long with a ruffle at the bottom of the sleeve and short with a flutter sleeve. You can also choose to add a ruffle to the bottom of the bodice but I decided to leave it plain. 
I haven’t often worked with really slippery fabric apart from linings. I read some blog posts and snippets from books I have on the subject of slippery fabrics! I pinned the selvages of my fabric together before laying out the fabric for cutting. I pinned and used weights to keep the pattern pieces in place and prevent the fabric from moving. I used my tracing wheel and carbon paper to transfer the bust dart markings and a water erasable pen to mark dots. These marks really bled into the fabric so I do hope they come out when I wash it! I decided to use both my overlocker and sewing machine - the latter for the more tricky bits. 
The fabric tolerated steam ironing on setting 2 very well but the fabric is very bouncy and it was hard to keep a crisp fold without the fabric springing apart!
Most of the construction was straight forward except for those pesky sleeves. First you finish the top edge of the cold shoulder sleeve with binding. This was pretty straight forward.
You have to run a line of machine stitching half an inch from the raw edge of the circular hem and turn the hem under and press. It pressed in place with reasonable ease. The next step is to trim this close to your line of stitching. I trimmed mine nice and close and then found folding it over again was virtually impossible. It turned under nicely where the hem was with the grainline but when you reached a part of the hem that was with the bias there was just too much fabric to ease in and to lie flat.
I tried gathering these areas to ease in the fullness but the end result was a bit of a dog’s dinner to be honest! I did a better job with the second sleeve where I decided to trim the edge less - leaving more to turn so it was a bit less fiddly. With this sleeve I just pinned it every eighth of an inch! Despite the dog’s dinner you don’t seem to be able to see this on the finished garment. Phew!
Another tip is to understitch your neckline seam before sewing the armhole seams as this gives more room to manoeuvre the layers of fabric.
The pattern requires a lining and as the fabric is quite like lining fabric I decided to self line it. You have to slipstitch the final section of armhole on each side.
Finally the hem was also a bit tricky. I decided on the length that I wanted and pinned this at the front. I then asked my husband to pin up the back level with the front for me. He didn’t really do a very good job so I then put the top on my dressmaker’s dummy and measured up from the floor. I got it really level but when I took it off the dummy the seam line was all over the place! So I tried to blend it as best I could and hoped for the best.
Overall I’m really pleased with it. I love the colour, the drape and style of the garment. However, I’m not sure I want to work with such a slippery fabric too often or the air will be very blue! My advice would be to use it for very simple constructions that don’t require too many curved seams or easing in of fullness.
I wore it out on Monday night to my bridge club and I got lots of lovely complements!
Thanks for reading.
Diana
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Cotton Canvas Shift Dress

Hi. It's Cheryl from Time To Craft again. I'm back reviewing a Cotton Canvas Fabric this time, which I used to make my pocketful of posies dress.

I don't know about you, but when it comes to fabric shopping, I'm like a child in sweet shop. The brighter the colour and the more fun the print, the more likely it is to catch my eye. Even if I was after a plain fabric, I'll go home with prints galore. Lengths of floral or cars or animal themed fabric make it into my basket, without a solid colour in sight. The result is that I have a wardrobe full of fun, homemade clothes, but nothing to coordinate with them. I need plain too. Please tell me I'm not alone?

This time, knowing my tendency and with considerable determination, I opted to review a plain colour fabric. A solid royal blue. It's still a fun colour. Bright, but not over the top. It's a cotton canvas so as you would expect, it is a fairly stiff fabric, which makes it so easy to work with. No slipping. Folds can be pinched into place with less pins required. Maybe not the obvious choice for this fabric, but I knew a shift dress would work well with it. Perfect to wear when I need to give presentations at work, and I can rely on it staying put as I move around.

I have to admit that this fabric still surprised me, but more about that later.

I opted for Butterick Pattern 4386, which I've used a few times before. I may be stuck in a rut with this one as it is, hands down, my favourite pattern to use for work outfits. Hopefully no one notices. I use different fabric and there are enough variations to this pattern to ring the changes. One tip I will give is that, as long as you're not adding the waist sash, it's best to ignore the instructions and fit the zip before you sew up the side seams. Otherwise you end up fitting a zip into a tube. Not an easy process.

Back to the fabric. There was no noticeable shrinkage when I pre-washed the fabric. I line dried it. The fabric length kept its shape and the colour remained strong. It has no stretch. There were no obvious undyed patches on the surface. Lining up the grainlines was a doddle as the grain of the fabric is obvious. I still checked it, but there was less fussing around, making it a good choice for beginners to use.

To cut down on the bulk at the seams and neckline, I used other fabric for the facing and the sleeves. For the neck facing, I dug around in my stash for a floral cotton poplin. It doesn't show when I wear it, but looks so pretty on the hanger and cuts the weight of the neckline.

I need to move my arms around easily in this dress and I wasn't convinced that the sleeves in this fabric would aid movement. Maybe a less narrow sleeve shape and a roomier armhole would have worked, but this pattern design had no excess room for manoeuvring. So instead I went for a Lace Fabric for the sleeves. In retrospect, I might have made them longer to create balance, but there you go. I would never finish anything if I didn't stick to the 80/20 rule.

I finished the armhole seams with cotton binding to stop the cut edge of the lace scratching the delicate skin, under my arm. It worked. I can move and it helps to keep me cool too, with no chaffing. The lace also visually breaks up the solid fabric too. Adding interest.

Progress went well with the dress. It was easy to sew up. I altered the darts a tad as usual, to fit my shape. So easy to add topstitching to the edges to give a crisper finish. Then I tried it on. It fitted. Perfect, but the plain fabric was too much. A certain member of the family, who will remain nameless, pointed out that it reminded him of a nurse's uniform.

silence

He was right. Looking in the mirror, I could see his point. Not the image I was going for. Even worse, the front of the dress looked like an endless wall of blue, going from my neck to my ankles. A wee bit boring, despite the lace sleeves. I needed to add some interest.

Never to be defeated, I dived into my ribbon drawer. First up, I added daisies to the neckline. I had a small length of big daisies and a slightly longer length of small daisies. Neither would cover the front of the neckline by themselves. Instead, I cut them up into individual daisies and mixed the flowers up. I sat out in the garden and spent a glorious, quiet hour, hand stitching all the flowers onto the dress. I'm truly pleased with the result.

The daisies helped, but I needed something else. The obvious choice was to break up the length of the dress with pockets. Plus, who doesn't like pockets in their dresses? Again I searched my trimmings drawer for daisies. I still had a few of the small daisies. To these, I added a different white flower and a red ribbon, on each of the pockets.

It was starting to look less like a uniform. More a pocketful of posies.

Now on to the part about how the fabric surprised me. Whilst working on the darts, I somehow snipped the smallest of holes, below the dart. Grrr! I couldn't ignore it as it was showing up as a light blue/white against the blue of the fabric. The fabric is woven and then dyed blue, which means that the white of the original fabric will show through at the cut edges. Or small accidental snips, in my case.

I mended the hole and used a fabric dye pen, to cover up the white. Not perfect, but it certainly didn't shout out anymore.

Now I'm a big believer in working with a fabric's features, rather than against them. It struck me that I could use it's property of showing the half dyed white, to my advantage. I hadn't tackled the hem yet and I could see a way to use this contrast property.

I knew I wanted to reduce the bulk at the hem. Folded over it might be rigid, which would make the hem stick out and not move as I wanted it to. I couldn't leave the hem unfinished as I'd be creating a trail of blue frayed cotton, wherever I went. I also wanted to add a bit more interest to help the daisies at the neckline and pockets.

So, I frayed the hem.

Fraying is very easy to do. Not as quick an option as you may imagine, if you've never tried. One of my favourite off-the-shelf, linen dresses has a frayed hem and I love it. I knew it would work in the same way for this canvas fabric. Using my existing dress as a template, I sewed a tight zig zag stitch all around the hem. About an inch away from the edge of the bottom of the dress. Next I pulled out the horizontal weft of the fabric. It took a good few hours, or maybe it just felt like it, to pull all the threads out.

Bulk was reduced and it added a shimmer of white to the hem, which will only improve as the dress is worn and washed. I can see that the warp threads will untwist up to my zigzag stitch line. I may be teetering on the fabric nerdy side with this one, but bear with me. I think that some interesting effects could be achieved by pulling lines of threads from the centre of this fabric too, without the strength of the fabric being lost. Certainly something to consider.

The dress is complete. It ticks so many boxes. Easy to move in, but stays in place at the same time. I love the addition of flowers, which I hadn't planned. The pockets are a bonus, of course. The hem gives it a slightly more casual look, while the shape is still business like.

The fabric would be brilliant for bags or cushions, but don't rule out using it for clothes too. I think is will be hard wearing and stand up to the rigours of every day life. A pair of shorts for my eleven year old son would be a good choice. He'd certainly test its strength. The royal blue is a rich colour. I used the partially undyed parts to good effect, but it is perfectly possible to make something without the undyed bits showing. No one needs ever know about this fabric's hidden depths! The fabric comes in a range of different colours, so a versatile choice.

Thanks for reading,

Cheryl

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Megan Nielsen River Dress from Art Gallery Fabric

I was very excited to try out this gorgeous stretch Jersey Fabric from Art Gallery Fabrics. This print is ‘Sprayed Blooms’ and the colours are perfect for breezy summer days. The fabric itself is super soft and has a lovely amount of stretch with good recovery. It comes in a huge array of prints and is stretchy enough for leggings and t-shirts and stable enough for pants, tops, dresses and cargigans. Depending on the print and pattern you choose, this fabric would be useful for making garments for all seasons.

The pattern I used is the River Dress and Top by Megan Nielsen. It is casual dress with a V-neck, tie belt and raglan sleeves. The instructions for a neat V-neck are fantastic and the pattern piece is cleverly shaped so that it’s difficult to go wrong. The rest of the dress is very easy to sew and comes together very quickly. A perfect beginner project.

This dress pattern is also reversible. The other side has a round neck. I chose to wear the V-neck at the front for these pictures, but it looks good either way.

The Art Gallery knit fabric was lovely to work with. It laid nice and flat on the cutting table (no annoying rolled edges!) and sewed beautifully.

The fabric drapes very nicely and is excellent quality. I am very happy with this dress and the fabric elevates it to the next level!

Thanks for reading,

Megan @ meggipeg

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Pink Velvet Joni Dress

I know I am a little late to the party, but when I saw that there was pink Stretch Velvet Fabric, I just knew I had to make the Joni dress from Tilly and the Buttons book, Stretch.

I know I made something from that book for my first review, but hey, it’s an awesome book when you are first starting out, and I am not an experienced seamstress.

When this fabric arrived and I opened the package, I was blown away by the intensity and brightness of the pink. This cerise pink is an awesome colour and I could not wait to get started.

This fabric is super soft, if stroked the right way of course, and it drapes really well. I don’t recommend it to extreme beginners, but for intermediates it is really nice fabric. It was a real learning curve for me to work with, there are things with this fabric that if done again, I will definitely do differently next time round.

As usual, I pre-washed the fabric at 30 degrees, however Minerva recommends to wash 40 decrees and allow for any shrinkage. But like I always say, if you are unsure what temperature to use, either do a cool wash or do a test wash on a sample piece. I also put it in the tumble dryer on low heat, like I do with all my fabrics.

This fabric is very drapey, and very slippery to use. Because of its pile, the stretch velvet needs to be cut with a nap layout so when I was laying out the fabric to cut the pattern pieces out, I had to mark with chalk which direction the pile was going as I wanted to make sure I had the “softness” going in the right direction, and I wanted my pieces all going in the same direction.

Pinning and cutting out the pattern was easy enough, but sewing was a bit of a challenge, the fabric wanted to move around on its own accord. I think next time I sew with Velvet, I will be using my Walking Foot on my sewing machine. I did not use my Overlocker this time as I did not have the matching thread or thread as near to my pink and thought that black, white or grey would not work well. If anyone wants to help me out and suggest anything different, please feel free to tell me otherwise, like I said, I am still newish to this and am learning every day new things.

I love how this dress has turned out and I am so glad I put in the extra time to place all the pattern pieces on the fabric in the same direction as its pile/nap. Now I just need to find a place or event to wear this to as I think the colour might be a little too much for my place of work… Pity!

Thanks for reading, until next time, Happy sewing.

Justine @justaboutcrafting

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Clover Needle Felting Tools Review

Hello again! I’m thrilled to be back on the Minerva crafts blog, this time I am sharing my experience of using the Clover Needle Felting Tool and large Needle Felting Mat. These are quick and easy tools for adding applique to a base fabric of your choice. Although I have tried needle felting in the past, I hadn’t ever tried applique using a needle felting tool so I was very keen to have a go!

The needle felting tool has 5 barbed needles which catch the wool fibres and push them into the base fabric, quickly and easily attaching your design without the need for glue or thread. The brush-like mat allows the fibres of the design to be easily meshed with the base fabric with little resistance, and the open bristles of the brush help to reduce the attachment of the felted fibres to the mat.

I decided to test out the needle felting tool and mat by adding applique designs to some tote bags. On the package instructions for the needle felting tool, wool is recommended as a base for applique, but other woven fabrics will also work. I used some tote bags made from 100% cotton and other bags made from recycled polypropylene, as I wanted to see how the tool would work on different base fabrics. For my applique designs, I used a combination of wool roving and felt sheets (both available from Minerva crafts). I used a Sizzix Big Shot machine to cut out some flower shapes from felt sheets, which I first attached to the bag, then added a wool roving centre to each flower. I also tried some freehand designs using a combination of wool roving and felt sheets.

The needle felting tools were very quick and easy to use. The needles in the felting tool are very sharp and I was glad that the tool has a plastic guard around the needles, to reduce the risk of injury. This is a great design feature as it makes the tool safer to use. I also liked the fact the guard can be locked to cover the needles when the felting tool is not in use. I found it much easier to remove the base fabric and my design from the brush-style needle felting mat compared with my experience of using foam felting mats (which tend to become quite easily attached to the item being felted). It's important to make sure the tip of the needle felting tool does not reach the base of the felting mat during use, as this could lead to breakage of the needles. I was very pleased with the speed of felting and ease of use of the needle felting tool and mat and I was happy with my finished designs. One thing to note is that as the felting mat is quite large, it can be quite tricky to fit it into small spaces such as into the corners of a bag. I found I was able to work around this, although smaller mats are also available if required. I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to securely apply my designs to each bag using the needle felting tool and mat, and I found this worked equally well with both the cotton and polypropylene bags I selected.

The possibilities for applique using the Clover needle felting tool and mat are endless, and the tools should work well on most woven fabrics. Wool roving is fairly inexpensive and is available in a wide range of colours. Minerva Crafts also stock an extensive range of felt sheets as well as handmade felt embellishments which could also be used for applique designs. With correct and careful use, the needle felting tool and mat should last for a fairly long time (replacement needles are available if necessary). If you are feeling creative and fancy trying something new, why not give needle felting a try?

Thanks so much for reading, I hope to be back again soon with another product review!

Jemma @buntingandbuttons

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Viscose Challis Faux Jumpsuit

I was super excited to receive this gorgeous abstract print Viscose Challis Fabric from Minerva. 

It has a sage green background with navy and turquoise animal print which is so in trend at the moment. The weight is light and it has a beautiful flowy drape. I decided to make New Look 6350 culottes with a matching Simple Sew Sophia Top both of which are easy patterns for beginners.

After tracing my pattern pieces I used my rotary cutter to cut out the pieces taking care as I didn’t want to snag the fabric.

The culottes were really quick to construct with only two pieces and then the addition of elastic at the waist. The Sophia Top requires facing at the neck and arms. My tried and trusted method for doing this is to cut out the fabric and then place on top of iron-on facing then using a tea towel on top I apply my iron. 

It’s then really quick to cut round the fabric pieces; I much prefer this method rather than doing one piece at a time.

Next, I overlocked the edges to prevent fraying. 

The boat neck on the Sophia Top is quite generous so I would advise making a muslin first before cutting out your fabric. I then overlocked all my edges before constructing the top which was very straight forward and all that was left to do was hem the bottom which sits just above my hips.

I absolutely love the drape on this fabric especially for the culottes. 

The fabric is very smooth and cool to the touch, perfect for a winter sun trip, I wore this outfit in Bordeaux during the recent heat wave and I was very comfortable.

Thanks for reading,

Charleen

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Stitch Your Own Activewear

I often make my own exercise wear, often using patterns I've developed myself. However I had McCall's 7261 and had already made different versions of the top. I hadn't made the leggings, so reviewing this Cotton/Spandex 4 way stretch Fabric gave me the chance to try them out in two contrasting colours.
I chose 2m of Jade which is a plain colour and 1m of Anthracite Grey which has a marled finish.
Although I'm really happy with the finished product I realised quite quickly that the two pieces weren't exactly the same cloth, although both fit the description. They weighed about the same, approximately 230gsm which is like a thick T shirt material, however their hand was quite different. The grey is much softer and drapes more than the jade which seems thicker and more stable. 
This picture shows how both fabrics are high drape, but the grey drapes more than the jade.
The pattern I wanted to make states that it needs 2 way stretch, however that's misleading as it needs to stretch both across the width and down the length. In the UK that's usually referred to as 4 way stretch, these fabrics are described as "stretching in all directions” which is just what I needed.
As I was making very close fitting yoga leggings I decided to test the stretch of both fabrics. There is a stretch guide on the side of the pattern, however you can measure percentage stretch really easily. Its important to fold the fabric, because a cut edge will stretch more than a solid piece.
Measure 10cm of fabric and stretch it so that when you let go it'll still return to it's original size. 
The grey fabric stretched an additional 4cm so has 40% stretch, whereas the jade has 60% stretch.
I expect the jade has more spandex/Lycra making it more stretchy and thicker. Both fabrics stretched enough for the pattern I wanted to make.
I'd always planned to use the Jade fabric for the top of the yoga leggings, I think the grey would become see through if stretched over my hips! To be really sure I went for the bib and braces approach cutting the top section twice and sewing as a double layer. This worked really well as it makes the leggings really supportive round my body and thighs!
Having decided how I was going to use the two colours I was ready to experiment with the seams. I usually use a 4 thread overlock stitch for active wear as it's strong and stretchy. However making samples is always worthwhile to check that neither needle thread is going to snap when stretched in use.
What I really wanted to do was use my basic overlock machine to do flatlock seams and hems.
I experimented with different tension and stitch length settings and was really happy with the results using the left needle and both loopers. These seams and especially the hem is really stretchy and I'm happy to exercise in this outfit.
There isn't a short sleeved option on the pattern, so I shortened the sleeve pattern. I had to shorten the leg length quite a lot. I split the amount in two using the marked line on the pattern piece and shortening at the ankle. I also added elastic into the wide waist band for some added security as I don't want the leggings slipping down! 
To get a flat join I matched the edges of the elastic together and used a 3 step zig zag onto a length of seam tape. Next I use a small zig zag to stitch one edge of the elastic to the fold of the waist band. 
I folded the band over the elastic and machine basted close to the other edge of the elastic. Once this edge is overlocked to the top of the leggings it won't matter if the machine basting snaps!
I'm really pleased with the fabric and what I've made from it. It is very warm so I might have to wait for cooler weather to get loads of use at my regular Monday Zumba class.
This is a great quality fabric and would make heavier quality T shirts or lightweight hoodies and certainly good for leggings. The softer grey fabric would make dresses and tops that need to drape, however I’d find the thicker fabric a bit too solid.
Thanks for reading,
Di @ sew-it

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