Hi Minerva Crafters,
Welcome back to the Minerva blog. Today, I am back on the blog sharing my review of this amazing French Terry Sweatshirt Fabric, using McCall's newest spring Pattern - 7910. I never made a jumpsuit or used terry knit fabric and I must admit I made many mistakes. The issues I encountered were user error and I ended up walking away a few times. However, I am happy I kept going because I captured a few tips that I will share that I hope will help you with your next project.
Minerva sent me this amazing dark bordeaux French terry sweatshirt fabric. It is soft and comes in several colors. Initially, I wanted to create a cropped sweatshirt. However, when McCall released the pattern I could not resist, I knew the fabric would be perfect for a casual jumpsuit. I am in love with this terry knit fabric. I have a little fabric left over that; I plan to use to create my sweatshirt.
Pattern and Modifications:
I used McCall 7910 pattern to create this jumpsuit. The close-fitting jumpsuit has tops and bottom variations that you can mix and match. For this jumpsuit, I sewed a lined halter and straight leg pants without the slits. I cut a size 10 for the top and a size 12 for the pants but I made a few modifications listed below:
Reduced the length of the straps by 1 inch
Reduced side seams of halter by 1 ¼ inch
Easestitched armhole edges
Helped with rounding the halter around my bust
Stitched the armhole edges to the lining using a 1 ¼ inch seam
Reduced the crotch seam by 2 inches
Stitched top to bottom using 1 ¼ inch
When I make this jumpsuit again, I will cut a size 8 for the bodice and extend the pants. I wanted to reduce the crotch seam a little more but I did not want to lose the length of the pants.
I know this seems like an obvious tip but for some reason, I skipped this step. I was so excited to test the fit of the jumpsuit that I did not take the time to focus on the separate pieces. As soon as I tried the jumpsuit on, I knew I'd made a mistake. I wasted a sewing day removing stitches, which leads to my next tip.
Baste, Baste, Baste:
In my haste, I used zig-zag stitches on all of the seams. Typically, that would not be a problem but as I mentioned previously, I did not take the time to test the fit. If I had basted the seams, the fitting and my frustration would have reduced tremendously. Luckily, I did not destroy the fabric removing stitches. However, I was tempted to trash the bodice and start over but I was so close!
Avoid the finishing techniques until you have confirmed the fit. I ended up understitching the halter to the lining, before my final fitting.
I styled this jumpsuit with my me-made fold over clutch, flat sandals and gold hoop earrings. I wanted the look to be casual but you can easily slip on some heels to dress the look up.
Thanks, Minerva for the supplies and thank you for reading!
Interfacing of the bands are optional but because this fabric is soft and I wanted to be sure that I will get any stretching out around the neckline, I interfaced the outer neckband with a light knit interfacing, it gives just a bit of extra weight to the fabric without making it stiff.
Another change was to make a swayback adjustment and because the back of this dress is on the fold I used the slide and pivot method to take 2 cm out. I saw this method in Nancy Zieman's book "Pattern Fitting With Confidence" and it is really easy to do, perfect for cut on the fold back pieces.
I included this picture to show you that the dress is windproof!
To hem the dress I used a double needle and usually I use a universal double needle when I hem my knits and don`t want to get the cover stitch threaded but this time my universal double needle didn't want to sew, I was getting skipped stitches and that never happens, so after I took my stitches out for a few times I tried a stretch double needle and I was surprised to see how nice my stitches were, so stretch needles are the best for this fabric!
To see the fabric "in action" you can take a look at this modeling video, I think this is the best way to see how the fabric works in a pattern and vice-versa. Till next time, happy sewing!
Hello everyone! It is Sharon again from Sweet Mama Life. I am excited to share with you my latest project.
I really gravitate towards an athleisure style. I think the urban look makes me feel put together and the comfort of the clothes can’t be compared. As a stay at home mom of 5, I like to be active in my clothes and need to be able to move easily throughout my busy day!
For this project, I wanted to make some jogging pants and shorts for myself and some jogger style shorts for two of my kids. I chose this French Terry Sweatshirt Fabric in the old rose and grey colors, and I LOVE how they turned out. We are so comfortable and have pockets! We can easily move throughout our day and our activities.
My favorite fabric to use for comfortable jogging pants is French Terry and my favorite type of French Terry is the type that is made out of cotton with added spandex. The spandex really helps the fabric have nice stretch and recovery while the cotton is comfortable and breathes well. A fabric with great recovery means the pants do not get saggy in the bottom throughout the day! Sweat pants are notorious for having poor recovery and losing their shape but as a sewist, you can easily find appropriate fabric (i.e. spandex content) to avoid that.
When I felt this cotton spandex french terry from Minerva, I just loved how soft it was and couldn’t wait to get started on my project. For my patterns, I chose the Greenstyle Creations Brassie joggers in the shorts and cuffed pants lengths for myself.
I do not have a coverstitch machine. Rather, I use a regular sewing machine and a serger. When I want to imitate the finish of a reverse coverstitch, I use the honeycomb stitch on my sewing machine. I love how beautiful the stitching detail is without having to use any extra equipment.
For my kids, I made the Greenstyle Creations Upton shorts pattern. I used the shorter length for my daughter in old rose and the longer length for my son in grey.
The size chart on the Upton Shorts pattern only has the waist measurement, which is measured at the natural waist (and not the waist where the pants are worn). I went by the size chart and the fit was spot on. I was nervous about the fit since there was not a hips measurement to go by. The pattern also has the option for a double waistband and a drawstring as well as a Capri length.
I love both of their shorts and how well they work for play. The pockets are very big compared to a lot of kids shorts as well. My kids were very happy to show off their pockets to me.
I loved working with this French terry and think it would also make a nice hoodie as the weather turns cooler in the Fall.
Thanks for reading today! I hope I have inspired you!
Sharon @ sweetmamalife
Hello there! I am very excited to share with you today about making the Burnside Bibs by Sew House Seven. This pattern has been on my wish list to sew for a long time.
I wore a pair of commercial overalls regularly as a teenager in the 90’s. I still have them and thought I’d share a photo for nostalgia’s sake.
When I saw this lovely pattern, I had in mind to make an updated pair of bibs for myself. I had linen in mind for this project and was blown away with this amazing linen from Minerva.
I’m not typically an over dramatic person, but when I received this fabric in the mail and saw it in person, I literally said out loud, “Wow!” It’s a lighter-medium weight linen, which is perfect for multi-season wear. The drape is lovely, the color is stunning and the texture of the white threads woven throughout the weft is my FAVORITE detail.
I have to share that there is a sew-along link for this pattern on Sew House Seven’s blog!! I love it when designers include extra details for their patterns via SAL’s:
There are multiple options included in this pattern that I thought I’d mention:
Scooped or straight front?
Cropped or full length pants?
Omit or include back pockets?
Version #1 features a slightly fitted back pant with back waist darts and an invisible side zipper opening.
Version #2 features a looser back, which omits the need for a closure.
Both versions feature ties that can loop around the front and gather the back waist. Both versions also feature a front waistband, curved front patch pockets, and cross-back strap. The legs are a stovepipe width.
3m Mint Green Georgio Linen Fabric
Matching Sewing Thread
Contrasting Sewing Machine Thread (I used navy)
80/12 sewing machine needle
Lightweight fusible woven interfacing
Invisible zipper foot
7-9” (17-22cm) Invisible Zipper
Muslin: If you’ve followed my previous posts you’ll be shocked to hear that I didn’t sew a muslin for this project. I share that jokingly, as I’m an avid muslin/toile sewer (and I know not everyone likes the process of making a test garment). I love Sew House Seven patterns. I’ve participated in multiple pattern tests for Sew House Seven’s patterns so I felt comfortable with estimating on the sizing without sewing a test garment first.
I made the following decisions for pattern options to make with this project:
Bib front: scooped neck
Back pockets: include
Version 1 with invisible zip and back darts
Full length pants
Size: I sewed a straight 8 for this project. I referenced the hip dimension to pick sizing.
I included the back pockets. Although this choice adds extra fabric and steps, I really love the modesty and functionality that pockets bring to add an extra layer of fabric on the back side.
ALWAYS buy more fabric then what the pattern calls for: I hear this tip but I don’t always follow it. I’m so glad I followed it this time. When I sew a project, I prefer to take my time. I don’t typically have 3+ hours to sit down and sew a project. I’m usually working in smaller chunks of time (10 mins here, 15 minutes there). It might take me a couple of weeks to finish a sewing project with this slower approach but I find that I make less mistakes when I think through the steps and sew a project more slowly.
For this project I had to work in a faster timeframe. I intentionally skipped the muslin (which is usually where I make a lot of my mistakes). I had final beach photos in mind for sharing this project so I had to quickly get this done before we left for vacation. I made two mistakes early on in the project; I didn’t cut the bib front on the fold and I didn’t sew the pockets mirrored. Thankfully, I had enough extra fabric to cut out the bib front and pocket a second time.
Keep sewing supplies for a project together: I’ve lost materials (between the start and end of a project) too often so this tip has become a habit for me. I like to keep pattern pieces together in a basket and any other supplies with them as well so they aren’t lost (thread, sewing machine needles, etc.).
Bib Ties: I used a hair tie as I was sewing from the zipper section on to help keep the ties out of the way from the sewing machine. The ties are very long. I was concerned I would accidently get the ties caught in seams if I didn’t keep them looped together.
Topstitching: I didn’t use a double needle or my coverstitch machine for this project. I sewed one seam at 1/8” (3mm) and a second seam at 1/4” (0.6cm).
Waist Facing: When basting the waist facing in place, I used a contrasting navy thread. I sewed this seam with the wrong side of the project facing. Then when I switched to the RS and using matching thread, I sewed the final seam. This helped me to both catch the edge of the facing while also following the seam that stayed visually above the first topstitch line. The photo below shows the navy basting line in between the first seam and the second top stitched seam (in matching thread).
Belt Loops: I decided to sew the ends of the belt loops in a chain stitch approach. I serged both ends of the belt loops, back to back. I repeated this process as I folded over the ends of the belt loops and sewed the ends flat on the standard machine, back to back. This helps save time and thread as well.
So this project was my FIRST TIME sewing an invisible zipper. I purchased an invisible zipper foot as I’ve heard this step highly recommended.
I decided not to color match the invisible zipper but instead use a grey zipper (for a tone within the same color family). The pattern calls for a 7-9” long zipper but I couldn’t find a grey invisible zipper at that length at my local fabric store. The length I found was 20-22”. I shortened the zipper by cutting the length and then hand tacking the new zipper stop.
I followed the suggested directions on the zipper packaging to shorten the zipper.
Being honest, my execution of the invisible zipper was not perfect. With my errors, the top of the zipper did not match up to the top of the garment, as intended (shown in the photo below).
To hide this a bit, I hand sewed a large hook and eye closure. I was excited to share these details as I wanted to offer encouragement to those that have also not sewn an invisible zipper. I find that a lot of sewing techniques become easier with practice. I am looking forward to continuing to make garments with invisible zippers in the near future. You also have the option of sewing Version 2 with this pattern. This version is less fitted, omitting the back darts and invisible zipper.
I love this project! It was so fun to make and even more fun to wear. The fabric is so drapey and comfortable. We took these photos at the beach when the weather was quite hot and humid. The fabric breathes very well and hid my legs from burning with the sun.
I decided for the size that I made, I didn’t like bringing the ties around to the front. I like that you have options with this pattern. I chose to leave them tied in the back.
The shirt that I’m wearing in the final photos is the Beatrix top in an Atelier Brunette, Double Gauze fabric, shared in this post.
I wish you well on your own summer sewing adventures. Let me know if you have made garments with this fabric. I’m quite in love with this finished project.
Hello, again! I am sorry for inundating your brain with more tunes from the late 80’s/early 90’s, but fabric clearly speaks to me in music from my youth. That being said, I am slightly obsessed with this Dressmaking Fabric. This jersey is a dreamy modal/elastane blend with a gorgeous drape and is available in three different colorways. For my dress, I chose the navy colorway. The colors in the scene are amazing and I love the pops of orange in my little leopards!
While I had originally planned on doing a knit jumpsuit with this pattern, when it arrived, I knew it needed to be a wrap dress. In my opinion, one cannot have too many wrap dresses. I find them to be so flattering on every body shape.
Because of my love of the wrap dress, I seem to have amassed quite a collection of wrap dress patterns. My next challenge was picking which of these beauties would be best. The Erica Wrap Dress by Seamwork Patterns really grabbed my attention.
My main reason for picking this pattern was that the skirt portion was a complete wrap. In other words, you cut two complete fronts of this dress and they wrap from seamline to seamline making your chances for a wardrobe malfunction much lower!
I also really enjoyed the straighter and longer skirt on this pattern. I found it to be quite modern and adaptable. By just changing my shoes, this dress can go from a date night to a soccer game.
Another factor in picking this pattern was the fact that the Seamwork patterns draft for a C cup in their Misses Sizes and a DD in their Curvy Sizes. For me, this means that I can definitely get away without an FBA in their knit patterns. Less pattern alterations are always a good thing, so this pattern was a definite win. I did, however, make two very small tweaks (and chopped 4” off the length) to this dress. First, I find that all wrap tops need a little help from gaping, especially when you have a larger bust. The best fix for this issue, in my opinion, is just a clear snap right where you would like the wrap to happen on your body. I would recommend, however, that you pin this placement while wearing the garment to make sure that you don’t create any awkward pulling in the middle of your chest.
The second tweak that I made to this pattern was to omit the opening in the side seam (where the sashes passes through to the back). I find that adding a bit of interfacing to the back piece right behind the side seam allowance and adding a knit buttonhole to be much more stable. This also allows you to finish all your seam allowances very easily with the serger.
Again, I find the silhouette of a wrap dress to be so universally flattering and often wonder why my closet isn’t just filled with them. I guess I would eventually become bored wearing the same shape over and over, but it’s hard to imagine. For more about my wardrobe building journey, don’t forget to stop by my YouTube Channel and Blog (both TomKat Stitchery).
Until next time!
Whitney (aka TomKat Stitchery)
Posted in Projects on Wednesday the 12th August 2020 by Vicki Ormerod
Hello fellow sewers. It's Ruth here and this is my second Minerva Blog post. I ordered this lovely navy spot Crepe Fabric because I thought immediately of making culottes. I'd seen a few spotted pairs last year and really liked them.
As I also like a faux jump suit I thought of making a matching top which could then be worn with other things, so mix and match! I've made this culotte pattern before so I knew to lengthen them 3" but otherwise I was confident of the fit.
However it was entirely different this time, going to show that the type of fabric used does often affect the fit. I had used a very floaty Viscose before and a stretchy crepe.
This crepe was easy to work with and not too slippery, but strangely kept slipping off the ironing board!
First I did the tailor tacks for the darts front and back and sewed them in. My top tip for this is that I always reverse into the small allowance at the end of the dart rather than tying the ends. As long as you are accurate it doesn't pocket the dart.
The zip is inserted in the back and this time I decided to use an invisible zip rather than a regular one and think this is what also changed the fit. I did shorten it by sewing over the teeth a few times and cutting off the excess.
Somehow or other by inserting this type of zip in the back seam made the culottes feel a bit too snug.! It was only marginal but I really like a bit of space in my clothes, so I decided to unpick the zip and take less seam allowance. Luckily I hadn't trimmed this in the zip area. This was less laborious than it sounds and I just sat and unpicked it that evening so I'd be ready to insert it again the next day. It gave me about 1/2" more space but made a difference. Ideally next time I'd insert an invisible zip in the side, although I do like the smooth finish at the sides that the back zip provides so I will ponder on that.
Then I restitched the waist band and attached a white popper to close it rather than a hook and bar.
I decided to use a wide bias for the hems rather than a very small hem. I could really have lengthened these another inch at the beginning, on reflection. I applied this and finished off the hems with a visible top stitch.
Then on to the top! I was very undecided but in the end chose to make the Ultimate Shift Dress pattern as I have made this top and dress a few times and it has been successful. I wanted it a medium length so I could pair it with jeans and wasn't keen on the split spots on the front and back seam of my culottes. I'm being fussy and hadn't thought to match up the spots! Maybe I would another time though.
The Ultimate Shift Top is very straightforward once you have the fit spot on! I always add 5/8" to the back seam as it fits me better and I lower the bust darts. It has an opening at the neck where I put a small silver button from another project and a thread loop. I finished the arm holes with navy bias binding and did 3" slits at each side seam. I thought it could then be partially tucked in or worn with a narrow belt.
So there is my honest review of Butterick 6178 and Sewoverit's Ultimate Shift Top. These are both staple patterns which I will use again very soon, as many different options and fabrics make them very versatile. Oh also I found a lovely piece of pink viscose in my stash, really quite by chance that looks very good with the culottes, so plan another top, but just haven't had time as yet.
Anyway I'm very pleased with my matching set and off to decide on a pattern for the pink fabric.
Thank you for reading and to Minerva for the fabric.
Bye for now,
Posted in Projects on Tuesday the 11th August 2020 by Vicki Ormerod
My name is Kristin Vaag (@vaag.oslo) from Oslo, Norway, and I am very happy to announce that I have joined the fabulous Minerva Makers team. I have been sewing for about two years now, and it has been my passion ever since I made my first garment. I have always been very interested in Scandinavian fashion and design, and I am hoping that the makes I share here will inspire you to make your own clothes!
This spring I have been seeing a lot of cool, oversized cotton dresses in the Scandinavian fashion landscape, and I have wanted to make one for myself for some time now. When I found this pretty cotton poplin fabric from Minerva, there was no doubt what I wanted to make from it.
I used some time to find a pattern that I thought would be a good fit, and ended up choosing a tunic dress from Simplicity Sewing Patterns (number 8551, model B). I wanted the dress to have that oversized look, so I chose to make it a couple of sizes bigger than my usual fit.
In addition to the main fabric, I needed some 10mm elastic and thin interfacing to make the dress.
Firstly, I have to say that working with this Cotton Fabric was like a dream. I just love working with stable, non-stretchy fabrics that makes pins unnecessary. It was easy to cut out the different parts of the pattern and the seam allowance stayed absolutely flat after pressing the seams. I will absolutely recommend this fabric for sew-beginners.
The pattern had a very good step-by-step description that was easy to follow. It was not very advanced, but because of a few complicated details I will recommend sewing a few other garments before attempting this pattern if you are an absolute beginner. It took me about three evenings to make the dress, without any stress and while listening to a good audio book.
The dress is very comfortable and the fabric feels good to wear. One thing I really love with this dress is that it is very versatile. You can wear it for all seasons of the year, with or without tights underneath. And you can dress it up with heals or down with sneakers. Although I am wearing pumps in this picture, I actually am a huge fan of the dress and sneaker trend.
I ran out of fabric, so I had to add a solid black part for the back skirt. I think it works fine, although it would be prettiest to use the floral print for all pattern pieces. I will learn from this for next time.
Thank you for checking out my first blog post for Minerva, and I hope you liked it! Feel free to send me questions or feedback if you have any – my Instagram is @vaag.oslo.
Hey there! I’m Adrian with Inspired By Adrian Denise! I am so excited to share a little about one of my most favorite sews to date! This is my first time here on the blog and I am so excited to share my make with you guys!
This jacket and this fabric were a match made in heaven!! I chose this Viscose Jersey Fabric and I seriously couldn’t be more happy with my choice! I am just smitten and I never want to take it off!!
When I saw this fabric, it was seriously love at first sight! I am sucker for all things stretchy, bold and fun! I have heard so many people speak about their fear of knits but I am the exact opposite! Sewing with knits is my happy place and so easy for me, especially when I find knits as smooth and easy to work with as this one!
This fabric has every bit of my personality all rolled up into sheer amazingness (if that’s even a word! lol) I knew that when I got this fabric that I had to pair it with my absolute most FAVORITE pattern of all time, which is McCalls 6844!!! This jacket will be a staple in my closet for sure! OMG, it’s love y’all!
So now, I’ll get into the details! As with all of my knit fabrics I serge the seams and hem with either my twin needle or cover stitch machine! This fabric went together so beautifully with absolutely no issue! From start to finish, I would say it only took me 2 hours total! I could seriously probably sew this pattern in my sleep!!! It is truly a staple and so quick and easy to sew up! I chose view C of the pattern and opted for the petite version as it gives me a better fit! It took some tweaking to finally figure out just how I like the fit and this fit is just perfect!
One of the things that I love about this pattern + fabric match is that I can seriously dress it up or down, as you can see the way I paired it with this tee that I made! It’s such a versatile piece, the options are endless!
Another reason to love this pattern is the fact that it can be made with knit or woven fabrics with absolutely no grading or changing up the fabric!!! OMG…another win win, right? As if you need anymore convincing, right?
This was actually my first experience using Viscose but definitely won’t be my last! I can’t rave enough about it! I have just a bit more left over and I’m really thinking of my next project because it really has to be used down to the last drop! Haha! Or I may just hoard it and never part with it!
So just a little recap…BUY ALL OF THIS FABRIC NOW! Hehe! You’ll be glad you did!!! Trust me, you won’t regret it!
Thanks for reading!
Hello friends! I’m so happy to be back with another Minerva Make for you! I feel like it has been forever since the last time! Life just gets that way sometimes and sewing takes the back seat to everything else and that is totally fine but I am happy to have finally finished this dress and I’m so excited to share it with you!
I was fortunate enough to be able to snag up a few metres of this beautiful floral Cotton Lawn Fabric from Minerva and I really agonized over what to make out of it. I didn’t want to choose the wrong project for it. You know how some fabric you see and right away you know what it is destined to become? Well this wasn’t one of those times for me and I had a stack of patterns that I was trying to choose between. In the end, practicality won. My wardrobe has been in desperate need of some simple every day dresses and especially ones with pockets! So I went with Christine Haynes’ Emery dress pattern. It is uncomplicated and comes together fairly quickly (when you actually have the time to sit down and work on it).
The fabric was lovely to work with, it didn’t give me any trouble. It wrinkles a little but nothing out of the ordinary and once pressed it looks and feels like a dream. So soft and flowy and perfect. I decided to go without the collar for this dress because I have SO MANY dresses with collars and wanted to simplify. I also chose the short sleeved version since summer is on its way (YAY!!!).
The cotton lawn lends itself well to this pattern- the gently gathered skirt with inseam pockets turned out PERFECT. It feels so light and floaty and soft and incredibly comfortable. I know it’s going to be one of my go-to dresses this summer for picnics and outings.
I didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern and while I am happy with how it turned out, I think that next time I make it, I will try to get a better fit in the bodice. It’s just a bit loose and gapey at the top.This is a common occurrence for me though and I’m not worried about it enough to take it apart and try to adjust it. It feels just fine to me, but I wouldn’t say it is perfectly fitted.
Other than that, I call this dress a winner. It’s great for lounging around and for going out. I have already worn it to work, to go out running errands and around the house relaxing (and I just finished it last week). It’s perfect for everything!
So my advise to you, dear friends, is to snatch some of this cotton lawn up for yourselves and make your own secret pajama dress to wear for every occasion! You won’t be sorry!