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Review for Prym Espadrilles Soles by Annie McGee

Hello everyone, I’m Annie from Scavenger Annie/Northern Bird Designs and I have been provided with the fun opportunity to review the Prym Espadrille Soles
Now I have never made my own shoes before, I didn’t even know where to start but this project was fairly easy, so I’d definitely pop it on your to do list and perhaps even think about making some as gifts with the festive season looming closer. Espadrilles are usually associated with a summer wardrobe but I decided to break into my treasured alternative fabric stash and make a pair of shoes fit for Halloween! Although being fabric shoes they are not waterproof they are very comfy to wear around the house or on those rare dry days in Autumn.
So let’s begin! First up you need to gather your supplies, as well as the Shoe Soles you will need to source some Espadrille Yarn or strong Top Stitch Thread (that’s what I used, doubled up), a Strong Needle that will pass through the fabric and the espadrille sole, your upper fabric and your Lining Fabric. To make your shoes longer lasting and more sturdy you can also interface them.
With the pack of soles you get a paper pattern with all the sizes on. It’s worth noting here that seam allowance is not included so I measured and drew an extra 1cm around my size before cutting the pattern. It is really simple with just two pattern pieces, one for the toe and one for the heel. There are however no instructions. You can scan a QR code on the pattern using your mobile phone but I found plenty of straight forward step-by-step video tutorials online so I just followed one of those.
When it comes to cutting out your fabrics make sure to align the pattern pieces with the grain of the fabric and if you have chosen a print for the upper like I did, watch your placement. I did get into a bit of a quandary about which way my vampires should face on the toe and in the end decided that they were my shoes so I’d like to see them the right way up when I was looking down at my feet. 
Once your fabric is cut out it is just a case of stitching your upper and inner pieces right sides together, turning them out the right way round and then pinning them to the soles. I recommend using long strong pins for this part as you catch the fabric and have to dig into the hard sole. This part took some time as you line up the centre of the heel piece with the sole, pin and then do the same for the toe. I placed pins every 1-2cm to make sure nothing moved during stitching. 
With your thread doubled, you then stitch the fabric to the sole using a blanket stitch. This part is definitely the most time consuming and took me a lot longer than expected so I caught up on one of my favourite TV box sets whilst sewing which was most enjoyable. You may find that you run out of thread whilst stitching around your sole but just remember to have your knots on the inside. You can tease up a bit of the jute of the sole to hide the knots underneath that way you won’t feel them during wear. 
The final step is to fit your shoes. You do this by popping them on and pinning the sides to the toe fabric for a nice snug fit. Again you can blanket stitch the pieces together at this point or do a simple running stitch. With that your snazzy new shoes are complete! You could get very creative and add some embellishments, perhaps ribbon ties or even check out some other variations of the pattern online for a completely different style of espadrille. 
The Prym espadrille soles are a nifty addition to any crafters stash. The opportunity to create a pair of shoes with your favourite fabric is wonderful and you could easily make these in afternoon. Me and my vamps are all set now for a comfy Halloween, we might even manage the monster mash together!
Happy stitching folks, see you soon.
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Evergreen Emerald Product Review by Elaine

I’m really chuffed to be doing another product review for Minerva Crafts. They have very generously given me a few metres of this lovely Denim Dress Fabric to play with. Minerva do the fabrics in two colours – one is a soft pink, but I chose this vibrant emerald green as it was so different to any colours in my wardrobe right now and green is one of the Pantone colours of this year if I’m not mistaken.

You can see it’s a beautiful green, I’ve been calling it emerald but maybe jade is more accurate. It’s in the eye of the beholder, I guess.

It’s a relatively light weight stretch denim fabric with stretch in both directions and would be suitable for skirts and dresses as well as trousers or jeans. I washed it straight away as it is denim after all, it comes out soft but looks like it will need ironing, depending on your taste, as it does crease almost like a linen. Thinking of all things denim, I didn’t notice massive shrinkage but I wouldn’t risk not pre-washing. There was a bit of fraying but it’s not too bad, just trim the frayed tails after you dry it. When I washed it there was no colour running that I noticed but I would recommend pre-washing with detergent as the fabric has a kind of ‘chemical’ smell to it at first.

The timing of this review fell nicely with another project so I decided to use it for a denim dress I was drafting. As it holds its shape and it’s not slippery it is quite easy to manipulate and behaves well when cutting with minimal fraying.

I used regular all-purpose thread and a jeans needle and sewing it up was easy; it behaves like a typical denim, as I said before, there is a bit of fraying so you would be wise to finish the edges with zigzag stitch or an overlocker if you have one. It presses well and holds creases nicely too.

For embellishment I used a cobalt blue topstitching thread and a topstitching needle to decorate the dress and this seems to work very well with the fabric also.

Once made up, I wondered if the fabric would chafe on the skin at all but it has been fine, it is quite soft next to skin and comfortable to the touch.

I was really pleased with the finished dress and I was able to get that into my holiday wardrobe in time to leave on my summer camping trip.

In addition to the dress I also made a bolero style jacket with a contrasting blue denim collar facing. The two denims worked well as they were similar weights. The fabric holds its shape well so was good for a jacket as well as the dress.

Finally I also had enough fabric to cut out a pair of shorts from this fabric. Although I didn’t finish it in time for my trip I was still happy with how well this fabric hangs and how versatile it is.

I could imagine making many different items from this fabric including skirts, it would work equally well for a pencil skirt or one with pleats. You could also get some wicked skinny jeans or Capri style pants out of this too. I’ve even got my eye on a few crafty projects to use the scraps, if I can get my hands on one of the espadrille kits that Minerva Crafts also sells I can see a pair in this denim.

Here is my dress which I wore out for my birthday meal while on holiday in Brittany...

It’s a big thumbs up for this Fabric. Easy to handle and sew up and easy to wear also. Thanks to Minerva Crafts for the chance to do this review.

Elaine @ Diary of a Random Madam

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Padded Rib Coatigan by Polly

I recently received 2.5m of the Textured Chunky Padded Rib Stretch Jersey Knit Dress Fabric in grey (it’s also available in a black and camel). Thanks to this awful British summer we are having I knew exactly what I wanted to make with the squashy fabric, a coatigan. I decided on the Berlin Jacket pattern from Tessuti, as I wanted a simple jacket that I could layer and would work all year round.
As usual I washed the fabric at 40 degrees. I just chuck my handmade clothes in the wash with everything else so any fabric I buy has to cope with my normal wash cycle. I didn’t notice any serious shrinking and the colour catcher came out colour free at the end of the cycle, overall it washed up well.  The only thing I did notice is where the fabric had been cut some of the padding came away, although this is a knit fabric you can’t get away with leaving raw edges unfinished.  Having said that taking the padding out of the seam allowance actually meant the seams weren’t as bulky so it worked in my favour.
I altered the pattern and made the coatigan using my overlocker, it had no problems with the padded rib and finished my raw edges at the same time.  I liked the look of the overlocking stitch against the rib so much I finished the patch pocket edges too then stitched them to the coatigan in a matching grey thread.
The fabric is quite chunky (I guess the clue was in the name) and I was presuming that I would need my walking foot for top stitching but my machine handled it just fine with my standard foot. The fabric was nice and stable, it was a dream to work with, especially for a quick project (which is my favourite kind).
I think it is really important that the details are perfect when you don’t have a busy print to hide behind, especially when you’re also working with a simple sewing pattern. I’m so pleased I chose this rib knit for my coatigan as it had just the right amount of structure to carry off the simple shape and really was a breeze to top stitch.
The wrong side of the grey padded rib knit is actually white, with the rib stitch showing up in a pale grey. I loved the look of the wrong side and thought it would be a nice contrast to include in my coatigan. The Berlin jacket is unlined so the wrong side of the fabric can be seen when worn but I also altered the rolled cuffs so that the wrong side of the fabric was exposed.
I’m so pleased with my coatigan and would highly recommend this fabric, it really was easy to work with. It would be perfect for a sweatshirt as the bouncy texture is super comfy. I’m already dreaming of a bomber jacket made in the black with a bright lining and elasticated cuffs.
Thanks for reading,
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It’s Can Can Time!

I have a lovely frilly scarf, that was knitted for me as a gift, made from this type of unique Yarn but had never tried using it before myself. One 200g ball is enough to make a nice long scarf, or 2 short ones, and the ball band has the instructions for making one printed on the inside of it (albeit in very small writing!)

I thought I’d see what else I could make with it instead and chose this beautiful rich green colour from the range available.

Rico Can Can is 100% Acrylic & machine washable. It looks a bit like a ribbon when wound on the ball but when stretched out it looks more looks like a narrow net. I understood that to get a frilled effect you need to knit into the top edge and try not to twist the yarn at all so it produces the ruffles as you go.

Instead of casting on you need to pick up the stitches at the start. They need to be picked up along the top edge of the yarn with an approx 4cm space between. Then as you knit carry on leaving about the same amount of space between each stitch, although a small change in spacing will not spoil the effect it will just produce slightly different size ruffles!

I did find this process a bit fiddly to start with as I couldn’t wind the wool around my fingers as I normally would when knitting, but I soon got the hang of it and found the knitting happily grew very quickly.

If you are knitting a scarf only a knit stitch is used as this produces ruffles on both sides but I was picturing a frilly cushion cover or a throw to go on the arm chair so after the initial few rows I changed to stocking stitch; one row of knit stitches followed by a row of purl ones. This produced a piece of knitting that had a flat side and a frilled side where the frills are more closely layered together.

I used 8mm Knitting Needles and cast on 20 stitches which provided a knitted piece wide enough to fit an 18” cushion. The finished knitting is very stretchy so has a flexible shape. I used almost 2 balls of yarn for my cushion cover as I didn’t want to stretch it too much so I could keep the frills close together.

This is a great yarn for any frilly projects, it’s beautifully soft and I love my finished cushion cover. Now I’m imagining a large cosy blanket to go with it!

I really enjoying trying Can Can Yarn out and think the suggested scarf would be a great make for a beginner to try.

Happy Knitting!

Nicky @ Sew and Snip

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Christmas Bags & Boots by Michelle

Hello craftists,

We have a new name for ourselves because of my 4 year old granddaughter. She is SO gungho about craft that it is beyond just a love of crafting, so she has been nicknamed the Craftist – as in activist etc.. ?

I can’t believe that it is already time to start on our Christmas projects – what is happening to time? Luckily for me, Minerva came to the rescue with a couple of wonderful products that kick started my projects. I am still not quite finished with them, but for now I have a few items that are ready to share.

My first project was a small selection of bags. I can’t seem to make and use enough of these….I have them in my sewing kits, in my knitting kits, in my toiletry kits for the camper and all over the car and house for various bits and bobs. My handbag is a cavern…I need it to carry all my medication but seriously, you cannot find or keep anything tidy in them. Hence the need for lots of little bags and pouches for everything; I even know what is inside each one – hubby doesn’t get it and can’t understand this type of magic.

Bags, bags….oh, yes, let’s get back on topic…

I received a metre each of this wonderful Christmas Fabric. One in green and one in red – your traditional Christmas colours.

This material feels a lot like African wax print when it arrives and is stiff and crisp. I love it because when you do craft projects it makes handling much easier. However, if you are going to use this for any sort of washable garment, I would definitely suggest a pre-wash because most cottons will shrink.

I didn’t use a pattern for these bags because I have made a few in the past and simply followed the same general principles. If you want an easy pattern you can find hundreds online and on YouTube. For this version I used a full fat quarter for the lining and cut the Christmas fabric to size. I added in a thin batting to give it volume and rigidity but you can also iron on interfacing or use iron-on batting for handbags. I wanted to keep the cost down because these were samples for my Saturday workshop and I don’t charge except for materials.

A bit of ribbon and contrast handles give it more interest. The box gusset was added after the main construction by folding the seams on top of each other to create a pyramid shape and sewing across the points. This created a box bag which can hold a lot of goodies and is perfect as a gift bag for Christmas.

Bag 1 done…..

The next two bags were made in a similar way but without the quilting. I sewed some of the lining fabric as a contrast on the outside and added a bit of lace to make these a bit more dainty. I think they are perfect for toiletries and makeup. One has a bottom gusset only because this is one of my favourite shapes; and the other is a box bag as well.

Bags done, now for the next, and completely different project…..boots.

What fun these are to make…and wear too! Who doesn’t need a pair of Christmas boots for running around, opening presents, eating too much and lounging around a fire?

The pattern for these is from Twig & Tale and I made a variety of sizes to sell at our church Christmas Market next month. This fabric was perfect ….

Does it get any cuter than this? This fabric was a perfect contrast to the brown wool outers of these Tie Back Boots. Now to make the green pair and another dozen or so for the moms who are already shouting “Me Please!”.

Thanks Minerva for once again providing the perfect touch for my projects.

Thanks for reading,

Michelle @ Swiss Army Wife

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A Walkaway Dress with Added Sleeves by Aida

Hi everyone, I'm Aida from idaaidasewing and this is my first review on Minerva Crafts' blog.

I'm sure you all know this Sewing Pattern, I first noticed it in the Great British Sewing Bee years ago and ever since it seemed to me like everyone made this pattern at least once and I felt I had to give it a try, obviously I was very happy to be able to write a review for it here in the Minerva Crafts blog and off course I'm talking about the Walkaway Dress which is Butterick 4790!

This pattern comes in only 3 pieces, front, top back and circle skirt pattern which is cut twice, the construction is really simple as you just attach the two pieces of skirt together, attach the top back to the circle skirt , join the front and back pieces on the shoulders and that' s it. Off course there are darts, meters of bias binding to attach and hem to turn but despite all these it's a simple dress to make and even a beginner can manage, considering my first ever thing that I made which was a fitted woven dress with zipper and facings this is really a piece of cake.

The fabric I used is a polka dot chambray that I had for over a year in my stash, the pattern calls for 3.5 meters of 150cm wide fabric, what I had was 2.5 meters so I had to make a few changes to make it fit. Minerva have loads of beautiful Chambray Fabrics for you to choose from. First I shortened the circle skirt by 17 cm which was very useful as in this way I could cut the 2 pieces of the circle skirt (which are huge) in the cross grain, I also had to add a centre seam in the back of the top as it was impossible to cut that on the fold.

I read a lot of reviews about this pattern and there were two issues that were mentioned quite often and bothered me, first was the gaping in the armhole and second was the feeling of being exposed in the back as the front pieces that goes all the way to the back is left open like an apron.

One of the many versions of this dresses I saw was on Instagram and the lady that made it seemed to have added sleeves and there was no gaping on her dress, I was intrigued by the idea of adding sleeves and so I sent here a message asking her help on how to achieve the same result, it was very kind of her to send me detailed pictures and instructions on how she did it. In my version I did it differently but I did follow the most important part which was to draw how I would like the sleeve to lie directly on the fabric before cutting it and as one piece with the top (there is no seam) then cut the pattern including this so called sleeve.

About the open back of the inner skirt I just used the slash and spread method to make the skirt fuller so that I can add a seam and also a zipper, in this way I feel covered and not exposed wearing this dress and it is still easy to wear. Both changes I made are obvious in the picture that shows the front pattern piece on top of the cut fabric that includes the changes.

All in all I love how this dress looks on me the only thing that I'm not satisfied with is the uneven hem which I have to find the courage and remake, I did not hang the dress for a couple of days before hemming as it is suggested for circle skirts so I have to do the additional work now.

Thank you for reading!

Aida @ idaaidasewing

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New Look 6396 Pattern Review by Allie

Hello! It’s Allie from The Aspiring Seamstress again. Today I’ll be reviewing a fun cape pattern, the New Look Sewing Pattern no 6396.

I was inspired to make a red cape by a character I saw on a tv show. This particular character is a fashion designer who designs clothing out of her parent's basement. Most of the clothes she wears are very stylish, there are a lot of things I’ll be making because of her! On one episode she had this beautiful drapey red cape on, it was only on screen for maybe five minutes but I instantly fell in love with it.

If you're curious to look it up, the show is called Last Man Standing. The cape in question appears in season 6, episode 14 at around 12:40. I tried finding a picture of it on Google but I couldn’t!

I chose New Look 6396 for the military style closures and shoulder epaulets on view A. There are three other views on this pattern; two longer capes, one with a fur collar and pockets (B). The other has one simple closure near the neckline and is collarless (C). The last view is a sweet little capelet (D).

This pattern wasn’t too difficult. It doesn’t require any fitting really which makes it perfect for a beginner sewist. It’s a great pattern to tackle if you're looking to practice understitching and topstitching as well as learn how to install a lining.

The techniques used in the pattern weren’t challenging by themselves (for me at least), I think the hard part was working with a slippery Lining Fabric and thick fabric. The closures and epaulets were made by sewing two pieces of the main fabric together, in my case that fabric was wool (it got quite bulky when layered!) which made it tricky to maneuver under my sewing machine foot and difficult to get the points nice and crisp.

I did make it through though and I’m very happy with how my cape turned out. The Boiled Wool Fabric I used is perfect, it’s got great movement to it and the color is just so vibrant. I’ve been loving vibrant reds lately.

I made a couple changes to the cape design. I’m not really a fan of the collar so I just left it off. I contemplated figuring out a different style of collar to use but in the end, I decided to leave it plain.

The other change I made has to do with the front closures. The pattern instructions want you to make the closures stationary on the right side by sewing the Heart Buttons on through all the thicknesses. I didn’t like the idea of being stuck with the same tabs forever.

Perhaps I’d like to change the color of them in the future. What if it’s not too cold of a day and I want to wear the cape open? Will the closures look odd flapping about (they do a little bit)?

So instead of making them permanent, I just made buttonholes on both sides of the closures. It wasn’t that hard to do and now I have the freedom to change up my cape look whenever I want too.

One thing I wish I would’ve noticed before cutting my fabric is the unnecessary back seam. I’m not sure why you don’t just cut the back pieces on the fold of the fabric, instead of the front pieces. You do use the back seam in the lining to turn the cape right side out, but couldn't this have been done using a side seam instead? I think the back of the cape would’ve looked better without the seam, but I suppose it’s not a huge deal.

Overall I enjoyed sewing up the New Look 6396, it was only a little challenging for me and I’m pleasantly surprised that I can make a cape! I think it’s a great basic cape pattern to have, it has a good variety of options and can be tweaked to fit your personal style preferences.

Thanks for having me here again!

Allie @ The Aspiring Seamstress

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A Sewing Business Adventure

Hi, I’m Alice and I have recently set up the indie children’s wear pattern label Sew Me Wear Me. It’s been a labour of love to get to this point, but I’m so excited to now get my designs out into the world. There are four digital sewing patterns currently available to buy through my Etsy shop. They’ve been designed using modern sewing construction techniques, but have touches of vintage detail. Easy to make, comfy to wear, but still feel like special handmade garments.

I learnt to sew as a child. My grandmother was a dressmaker, and my mum is a knitter and crafter, so making things was always part of family life growing up. After my second child was born I spent a week in hospital and watched The Great British Sewing Bee on an iPad. I felt totally inspired to learn some proper dressmaking skills. So, a few months later I sold all my maternity clothes on eBay and used the proceeds to buy a discounted sewing machine. I tried a few patterns and made a few wonky garments, learning loads along the way. There is something so completely absorbing about making something yourself. I was totally hooked.

For the last few years I have squeezed sewing into every spare moment I could. I took a few sewing classes, discovered indie patterns and the wonderful sewing community on Instagram. I started writing a blog (Alice’s Sewing Adventures) about my sewing adventures and joined the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network. I really enjoyed making clothes for myself that fitted properly and starting making clothes for my children too. Frustrated by my failed attempts to sew a dress for my daughter, I had a go at drafting my own pattern. It worked brilliantly, and soon she had a wardrobe of Mummy-made dresses that she loved.

I have thoroughly enjoyed learning how to design sewing patterns. There’s something so satisfying about being able to create something 3D from a 2D paper design. I even love the geeky pattern-making maths! Having had a couple of my patterns published in Love Sewing magazine, I decided I wanted to have a go at digitizing my patterns and writing my own step-by-step instructions. I know how tricky it can be when you’re just starting out to follow a traditional sewing pattern, so I wanted to make mine really easy to get the hang of. It’s been a steep learning curve. With the help of a couple of online courses I have learnt to use Adobe Illustrator, InDesign, Photoshop and Muse to create my digital patterns, instructions and website. I’ve had some help from a couple of wonderful people on the graphic design, photos, support, cups of tea and general loveliness.

Coming up with a name was tricky. After lots of playing around with children’s literature themes, my hubby came up with Sew Me Wear Me (a take on the ‘Eat Me’, ‘Drink Me’ labels from Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland). I’d like my patterns to take the sewer and the wearer on new adventures. I really liked the name, it fitted with my blog name and it stuck. Making sure the patterns worked before putting them up for sale was very important, so I recruited a gang of willing and very helpful pattern testers to help me test out all the sizes and instructions. I got loads of useful feedback. Hopefully the patterns will be so much better for going through the testing process. 

So, the website www.sewme-wearme.com is now open, with links through to my secure Etsy shop for instant downloads of the patterns. There are four patterns currently on sale: the Twinkle Twinkle Skirt and Pat-a-Cake Apron patterns are both beginner friendly; while the Flo Dress and Dreamland Pyjamas are more of an intermediate make. If you’re new to using digital patterns, they’re super easy. You simply download two PDFs: one is the pattern and the other is the instructions. The instructions take you through the whole process of printing the pattern pieces on A4 and sticking them together. You can even print just the sizes you need. All the patterns are between 18-30 sheets of A4. Much less than a full-sized adult pattern! There is also the option to request an A0 version for professional printing if you prefer. I am a big fan of Minerva Crafts Fabric, so each pattern includes links through to recommended materials from Minerva. It can be so overwhelming when you first start out to know where to start, I just wanted to make it that much easier for new sewists to get started.

I have so many ideas for new patterns and products! I am currently working on 3 new designs for release next year, and have plans for sewing kits and workshops too. I’d love to know what you think or if there are any particular patterns you’d love to see. If you’d like to be kept up-to-date with new releases and pattern testing opportunities, you can sign up to the mailing list or get in touch. I’d love to hear from you.

Happy sewing, Alice x

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Oversized Bag - Simplicity 1387 by Creative Blonde

A beautiful simple bag, which is big enough for everything…

Supplies:

(N.B: A metre by the width of the fabric roll, additional fabric will be left over, and could be used to make another bag from this booklet of pattern 1387)

Lets Begin:

Start by cutting out all the pieces for Bag ‘A’, and iron on a low setting if needed. Prepare your pieces in order, as shown in the photo below, take note of the pieces that need to be cut on the fold of the fabric.

Below is a photo showing the choice I made for where I was going to position my fabrics, the painters canvas fabric is going to the main middle section.

Iron your Stabilizer to these pieces, as explained in the pattern, and mark the small dots with a fabric marker. Sew these together, matching up the dots.

Your bag should now look like this…

Press seams open.

If you are making your own straps, follow the pattern, if not cut two lengths from the bag strap, the same length at the pattern piece.

Attach the straps to the outside of the bag, and sew in place. Repeat this process for both sides of the bag.

For the ‘Patch’, cut out 8 of these from the painters canvas fabric, with right sides together, sew around the edge, using Fabric Glue, attach in place on the bag.

To make the internal pocket, iron the stabilizer onto the painters canvas fabric, then with right sides together, sew this piece to the Fenton House Blossom fabric, leaving a small gap to pull right side out. Trim the seams and corners, press.

Turn pocket right side out, and press the raw edge seam inside. Pin in place on the right side on the lining fabric. Sew along the three edges, making sure you include the side which has the unsewn edge.

Remember to reinforce the corners of the pocket, as shown in the photo below...

Baste the bag batting to the lining pieces of fabric, and sew together using the same process as before, for the outer fabric, only this time leave a 4” gap along the middle of one of the side seams. You should now have a piece that looks like this...

With right sides together, and making sure the top edges match up, sew ½” seam allowance along the top of the bag – joining the outer and lining of the bag together, turn bag right way out through the gap you left in one of the side seams. Press and Ta dah!

Thanks for reading,

Michelle @ Creative Blonde x

You can find more of my tutorials on my blog, and find regular updates by following me on my Instagram page.

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Hex N More Quilting Template Review by Emma

I was delighted to be asked to review the Hex N More Quilting Template, a Jaybird Quilts product.

I enjoy quilting, but I'm certainly no expert. I'm aware that there are a lot of people like me who are improving their skills, and I want to show that this is a great product for them too, as well as the more experienced stitchers.

I had a few projects in mind for this, but in the end I chose the stash busting one.

And yes, my stash does include a towel! I really know where my towel is…

This is a simple project, but is a chance to practice several skills: feel free to count stash busting as a skill by the way! 

Ok, it's perhaps more of a scraps busting project, but quilt as you go coasters are a useful way to demonstrate how easy this product is to use.

The enclosed leaflet has cutting information, and some piecing ideas. 

There are even tips on use for left handed quilters; this alone gets the product a thumbs up.

The cutting guidelines assume that you're using a strip of fabric of an appropriate height. Here is the product on a jelly roll strip. 

These are usually 2.5 inches wide, and it was very easy to see how simple it would be to quickly produce a number of hexagons; 13 from a 40 inch strip.

I'm going to show how easy it is to use, even if the fabric isn't quite as regular. This review is not a showcase of my quilting skills, but a review of a product designed to facilitate exact cutting. I do plan to use it in quilting projects, but for now, I'm sharing a quick and complete project that uses the product.

The template is a sturdy piece of plastic, with markings for hexagons, half hexagons, jewels, and 60° triangles from 2 to 8 inches. 

The measurements are in inches, and include 1/4 inch seam allowance, so for example, the 2 inch hexagon is marked as 2.5 inches.

I'm going to make three coasters; two for mugs, and a larger one for a teapot. The towel will be both wadding and backing as it is quite a thick towel, and I don't want too much bulk. Why towel for backing? It makes the coasters more absorbent, and they can always be used that way up to catch drips better if required. I am not implying at all that my family are messy drinkers by the way!

The quilt as you go method is perfect for these, and I was able to prepare a piece of quilted fabric quickly. 

I cut some strips of similar widths; they don't have to be exactly the same, and some variation adds interest. My backing fabric is right side down, and I place a strip of fabric right side up at one end. A second piece of fabric is placed face down on the first piece, with cut ends matching. This is then sewn.

Open up, 

and place a third piece of fabric face down on top of the second, and sew. 

Repeat until the backing fabric is covered. If you're unfamiliar with this technique, I hope that I've clarified it sufficiently, but if not, there are much better instructions out there, and they'll also all remind you to press as you go. Pressing really does improve the look of your project. 

This is my quilted fabric for the large coaster. 

The back shows the quilting lines. 

If you're wondering, towel is quite easy to work with, although it does shed at the cut edges.

I'm using the largest hexagon, and have enough fabric to fussy cut. 

It's a job for a rotary cutter, but if you didn't have one, you could draw round it to cut with scissors. 

There are three sides to cut, and despite not having a regular sized strip of fabric, this was not at all difficult. 

The template stayed firm whilst cutting, and turning for the second half was straightforward, and lined up without problem, leaving a perfect 8.5 inch hexagon. 

For the mug coasters, I cut some narrower strips, and created another piece of quilted fabric as above. 

A safety note here. My rotary cutter was open, ready to use. I reached past it for my phone to take a photograph, and just brushed it with a knuckle. Cue a quick dash away from the fabric! Please be more careful than me.

This is the completed fabric with the template after the first cut of the first coaster. 

I'm using the 4.5 inch hexagon. Again, it was very easy to follow the markings, and easy to cut from an irregular piece of fabric. 

For the smaller hexagons, there are two cuttable sides before a turn is needed, although I found it easier with this fabric to cut a side and then turn. 

This is the coaster with three sides cut. 

Just one side left to cut, but this was a simple and straightforward process from first to last cut. 

These are the almost finished coasters; they just need finished edges. 

Even the backs look tidy. 

I used Wonder Clips rather than pins as the coasters are quite chunky. 

I had a suitable piece of bias binding in my stash that was just long enough to do the three, but you could make your own binding to coordinate better. 

Minerva Crafts sell a range of Bias Binding, and Bias Binding Makers.

I should tell you now that I'm not very good at binding, and these are the first corners I've covered that aren't 90°. 

However, despite being obviously homemade, they are attractive, functional coasters, and are being well used by my family.

This is just the first project I've made with the Hex N More Ruler. It was easy to use, and each time I look at it I think of something else I could make. I've even thought of some paper craft uses too, although I'll draw round it and use paper scissors to cut out!

Thanks for reading,

Emma @ Hot Tea on a Hot Day

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