There's an old saying that goes “You can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear.” Whatever the meaning of that may be, today I'll show you how I made a silk haori-style jacket, printed with multiple animal species' ears on it. Don't worry! Its not as weird as I just made it sound. In fact, its gorgeous, and quirky in all the right ways. Lets get to it.

This is a beautiful light-weight Silk Fabric in a cool-toned neutral colourway, with a Victorian lace-style print. Framed within the lace is lithograph-like portraits of various animals, including flamingos and giraffes. The combination of traditional with comically-cute is refreshing and sure to spark some creativity!

The fabric drapes nicely but doesn't weigh down. I think it will lend itself perfectly to blouses and dresses and a light cover-up- like this one!

I chose the Kimono jacket pattern by Sew Over it. This is a simple haori style with drop sleeves and 2 length options. ( I made the long length, I am 5'9” or 175cm for reference.) This is an easy pattern for any sewing level and doesn't require much fitting. It sews up in an evening at a relaxed pace.

To prepare the fabric, start as you mean to go on. In other words, if you will hand-wash your silk henceforth, hand-wash it now. I machine-washed mine on a delicate cycle in cold water and hung to dry. (In case you can't tell, it came out great.) I pressed on silk-setting with my non-steam iron and used my usual muslin pressing cloth. I didn't get a super crisp fold but here I am not too particular about that. I used a universal needle in my sewing machine, a slightly shorter stitch length, and didn't hit any snags sewing it. (Haha! Get it? Snags? Because silk...it really didn't though.)

As I mentioned, its a nice evening sew, and the animal faces gave me a chuckle as they ran by. I added a lace trim to the bottom hem for interest as well as some added weight. I simply sewed it by machine to the front of the finished hem. Beautiful!

I have been thinking quite a lot about scraps and how to use them. I make a concious effort to cut fabric out as judiciously as possible but still manage to accumulate quite a pile. (There are a few poufs/dog beds in my future!) The obvious scrap-busting project from a silk garment is a scarf but keep any sizable pieces for pockets, linings and even facings in other garments. A silk scarf is lovely and timeless and makes a thoughtful gift. This is a rectangle measuring 20”x35”.

I used a rolled-hem foot on my machine but there are ways to finish the edges by hand or with a serger (Youtube is your friend. And mine.) I really enjoy the rolled-hem foot. The key is to keep the fabric folded at just the right width as it runs through. I started on a very slow-speed until it became more natural. You can conquer this technique, if you haven't already!

I like to have a scarf handy (looped through the strap of my bag) in case of wind and/or at the beach- when even a pixie-cut can get wild.

Do you like sewing with silk? How about giraffes and flamingos? Go for it!

Thanks for reading,

Cortney @s.is.for.sew

Hello,

I must confess that I am truly enjoying making all the summer dresses. Maybe, I am exaggerating a little bit but I am making mainly dresses and this project is no exception.

This pattern has been in my wish list for some time but only recently felt more confident to actually buy and make it. The pattern is the Butterick 5748, a reproduction of a 1960’s pattern.

Because I haven’t used Butterick patterns that much and also because the bodice is meant to be fitted, I used the lining as a toile so that even if some adjustments were needed, I wouldn’t waste too much time or fabric. Please mind you, I do not think that a muslin is a waste of time, I was just trying to speed a little bit without skipping an important step.

In the end I didn’t need to make more adjustments than the ones I usually do and made a size 8 graded to 10 at the waist and hip, taking 4cm to the skirt. However, I did make some small alterations. This dress is fully lined but I omitted the skirt lining as I thought that if I was going to wear a petticoat it wouldn’t be really needed and instead, handstitched the bodice lining encasing the waist seam. Also, instead of a regular zipper, I used an invisible one. Not only do I prefer the way it looks but also I find it easier to attach, especially if I only sew the skirt side seam after attaching the zipper.

Now, about the fabric, I used a Waffle Cotton Fabric in colour Cornflour Blue and I must say that I thought the fabric would be a little different. My fault entirely, as the description is very clear but, I imagined it more like a pique and in reality, it has more of a 3D effect and waffle describes it perfectly. Although not being what I had in mind initially, it surprised me how well it worked with the darts (there are 6) and even inserting the invisible zipper.

I did not find the fabric hard to work with but I found it helpful to use a walking foot. The fabric is not stretchy horizontally or vertically but if cut on bias it is slightly more stretchy than other woven fabrics. That is all alright but because it is a circle skirt, I had to trim a little off some areas before hemming. This would have happened with other woven fabrics as well I suppose, as the instructions advise to hang the dress for 24h before hemming and trim a little if necessary.

I found the fabric works well for making clothes, it feels nice to wear and it feels really nice for warmer temperatures. In the end, I have a dress that I really like, the colour is very beautiful and I might have had a little bit too much fun twirling while taking photos. Now I know why my girls keep asking me for dresses with circle skirts!

Many thanks Minerva for the gorgeous fabric for this project and to you for reading.

Happy sewing,

Maria x

A Pinch of Sewing

Hi guys

Soraya back on the blog again today!

This month I made a gorgeous animal print wrap front dress and I'm absolutely in love with it!

It turned out super pretty and was well received when I shared it sewcially on Instagram!

The fabric I chose this month was this beautiful Leopard Print Scuba Crepe. It has a lovely crepe texture to it but a soft smooth scuba back.

The pattern I used was a the Simple Sew Lena Wrap Dress. Simple Sew is a UK based indie pattern company that currently only sells paper patterns. I believe I got my hands of the Lena Wrap Dress Pattern, free with a magazine.

I think the company name is really spot on as a lot of their patterns are super easy and simple to sew up.They have a lot of staple pieces and a few knockout dresses. All in all, very pretty.

The Lena Dress has a faux wrap front. This is great as you don't have any risk of it popping open on you. Adding to its ease of wear and construction it doesn't have any closures, you just slip it over your head! So, no need to keep retying or readjusting! Yay!

The Lena also has colour blocking options as the skirt is in 2 pieces as well as the waistband being its own separate piece.I think the overall finished dress turned out amazing!

Due to it being made of a scuba crepe fabric it is going to be perfect for the cooler weather. I feel like because it also has the 3/4 sleeves it is its own complete outfit, which is great. If I get cold though, I think paring it with a slinky black cardigan would work perfectly.

I decided to style the dress with coordinating black flats, with my hair back in a black headband and a sassy red lip. I feel a real 60's vibe.

All in all I’m very very happy with this dress and fabric. It is absolutely gorgeous and I’m glad I can add it to my handmade wardrobe. Super flattering and well-fitting straight out of the envelope it is just dream.

Hopefully my beautiful make will inspire you to make something! Leopard print is making a comeback and I’m so happy about it! Don’t be afraid to try out new prints and textures and make it your own.

Feel free to follow along with my sewing adventures on Instagram @sewnbysoraya

Hi everyone, it’s Christine from @the_alchymyst here and I’m delighted to be here sharing my version of the Tilly and the Buttons Cleo dress with you.

I have to admit I’m a little late to the Cleo party. I’ve seen so many lovely examples of this dress online but even though I love a dungaree dress I’d never got around to making myself one, so when Minerva offered me the opportunity to try some of their fabulous printed cotton Needlecord Fabric I jumped at the chance to make my very own Cleo.

The polka dot needlecord I used comes in a choice of black, red or navy and I chose to use the black colourway. It’s a medium weight 100% cotton needlecord, soft, but with enough body to hold its shape. The printed spots are approximately 4mm in diameter – big enough to make a statement without being overpowering.

The pattern, as with all Tilly and the Buttons’ physical patterns, is printed on a lovely durable paper which is heavier than the tissue you might be more used to and comes in a strong paper packet with a beautifully printed instruction booklet containing easy to follow, friendly directions and clear photographs of each step. You have a choice of two length options for your Cleo - mini or knee length. I chose to make the knee-length version with front split.

Pattern pieces are provided for optional large top and smaller hip pockets, which can be added in any combination. I went for the top pocket and rear hip pockets and due to the patterned fabric, chose to omit the contrasting topstitching, although I would definitely add it on a plain fabric as I think it fits the styling of the Cleo very well. You also have the option of using a pinafore style button and button hole closure or the more traditional dungaree buckle fastening. I chose to use the buckles and jeans style buttons because I love the retro-styling look they give. Also there was something deeply satisfying about whacking in the jeans style buttons with a hammer!

The pattern is sized from 1 (UK 6) to 8 (UK 20) and is true to size, I cut a size 5 (UK 14) at the bodice/waist tapering out to a size 6 (UK 16) at the hip line and was very pleased with the fit.

My Cleo was fun and easy to sew, going together in an afternoon and is very comfortable to wear, as you can see I walked several miles in it whilst we were shooting these photos. It is also extremely versatile, especially in this lovely corduroy and I can imagine wearing it with a snuggly long sleeved top and woolly tights in the colder weather just as much as with a t-shirt in the summer.

I am completely smitten with this pattern and am already planning my next Cleo, maybe in a nice stretch coloured denim this time…

Thank you to Minerva for the supplies and thank you for reading.

Christine @the_alchymyst

Hi Minerva Crafters,

Welcome back to the Minerva Crafts blog. Today, I am back on the blog sharing my review of McCall’s 7848 using this beautiful Coating Fabric from Minerva. Lately, I’ve been sewing jackets and coats nonstop. I remember a time when I was uncomfortable with the idea and kept putting it off. However, after completing my first blazer and moto jacket, I'm feeling more confident. I have found that I'm getting better after each coat or jacket I sew.

Fabric:

This textured woven coating Fabric comes in blue and coral. I made my coat using the coral pattern. The heavy woven non-stretch check fabric is beautiful with a mix of blues, pinks, and purple throughout. I wanted to make sure I matched up the stripes as much as possible so I cut the front and back pattern pieces one at a time. I did not take the same approach for the sleeves and neckband. I later realized that I didn’t match the grainlines, so I wasn’t sure whether the stripes would match or not. Sure enough, it worked out very well.

Pattern and Modifications:

To create this coat, I used the McCall 7848 pattern. The fitted lined coat pattern has a front zipper, side seam pockets, and an option to use contrast sleeves. Also, there are length variations, an option for a hood with a contrast band, and tie belt.

I chose version C without contrasting sleeves and cut a size 10 for the top and size 12 for the skirt. I made several modifications listed below:

• Reduced the bodice side front by 1 ¼ inch

• Reduced the side seams by 1 inch

• Reduced the sleeves by 2 inches

• Reduced the sleeve cap by 1 inch

• Inserted fusible fleece to the sleeve cap. This helped eliminated the sleeve from collapsing

• Replaced the 30-inch zipper with five 1 inch buttons

For me, most of the modifications listed are standard and I typically have to adjust the bodice to fit me properly. However, I struggled with deciding between a zipper and buttons. I initially inserted a pink 30-inch separating zipper. However, I was not in love with the result and felt that something was missing. I walked away from the project for a few days but could not figure out what was missing. After showing the coat to my husband, he recommended replacing the zipper with buttons immediately. He thought the coat was not flattering with the zipper up to my neck with a stand-up collar. I eventually removed the zipper and installed the buttons and that changed the entire look of the coat.

Besides the modifications, the pattern was simple to construct. Of course, it does require a few techniques. However, if you've made a bodice and skirt with buttons and zippers before you will be able to create this coat.

Styled:

I styled this coat casually with my me-made white linen wrap top, (details of this top is on my blog), light denim jeans and white converses. This coat is one of my favorites. The fabric was a dream to work with and the colors are striking. I am in love with the final look and I can't wait to brighten up the winter months with this beautifully bright textured coat.

Thanks, Minerva for the supplies and thank you for reading!

Happy Sewing!

Q @moore_2q_style

Hello! My name is Aimee, also known as the Sewing Scientist. Today I want to share with you my new jeans that I made with the Super Stretch Denim Fabric. My wardrobe has been severely short in the self-made pants category. I make about hundred tops a year and fewer than 10 bottoms in the same time period. This year for Me Made May, I pledged to only wear “me made” bottoms and it really forced me to make some new pants and fix pants that I made that were not fitting perfectly. I thought this sparkly stretch denim would be perfect for some fun jeans.

First off, let me tell you about this fabric. It’s a very nice medium weight denim with a whole lot of stretch. It’s so hard to find nice stretch denim with at least 25% stretch and this fits the bill perfectly. The black is a dark true black and is covered in silver sprinkles. The silver is like a print on the denim. I have not washed and worn these jeans much but it does not feel like it will wear off the surface easily.

My favorite jeans are pull-on jeans and the Itch to Stitch Mountain View Pull-on Jeans are my favorite pattern to use for them. I have gastrointestinal issues that make wearing jeans with a regular waistband uncomfortable and I find that pull-on jeans are so much more comfortable and don’t both my sensitive stomach.

The mountain view pull-on jeans are slightly high rise with a wide waistband for some tummy control. They have straight cut legs but instructions are included for making them slimmer. The pattern includes a faux fly but I tend to omit them from my jeans as I like to wear them to work. Jeans are not considered “work appropriate” and I feel like they look a bit dressier without the faux fly. The pattern also includes back pockets and I omit those too for the same reason.

The mountain view pull-on jeans have very unique legs with a center back seam. This back seam allows a bit more shaping to the leg and gives a great fit. It’s very hard to see in the back leg seam and the back yoke in my photos due to the print on the super stretch denim but you can make them out in this close up photo of my behind (sorry).

I am only 5 foot tall and have to remove length for my height. That is very easy to do and the pattern has lengthen & shorten lines above and below the knee to help get the perfect fit. This super stretch denim made me think of a sky filled with stars. So when I needed to select a lightweight cotton woven for my pocket lining, I picked a galaxy inspired print. Sorry – I failed to get a photo of the inside of the pockets.

I love my new jeans so much. I know that they will get lots of wear. I wore them with a plain black Halla Patterns Agnes in my photos to keep the attention on my pants but these look great with many of my patterned tops.

Thanks – Aimee @ Sewing Scientist