Archives: April 2020
I'm back with a new sew!
This sew is also new for me in that I've never sewn with Satin before--ever!
I chose to use this Satin Fabric from Minerva to make the recently retired pattern Stella by Sinclair Patterns. This pattern has been on my to-sew list for a long time but I never had the time or the right fabric to sew one, so when I saw the satin, I thought 'now is my chance!'
It was definitely a learning curve for me to sew with satin.
Satin is a more slippery fabric and if you use the wrong needle you can easily cause little runs in your fabric. So, before I started sewing, I researched what needle to use, what settings to set my sewing machine at and for any pointers to sew satin.
Some things I found out were:
Use a fine needle.
Set your stitch length between 2.2 and 2.5.
Do an extra line of stitching on seams that will get wear.
Be sure to finish your seams well--satin frays pretty quickly.
Use lots of clips or pins (in your seam allowance) as satin is slippery.
Set your iron to polyester to avoid accidentally melting the fabric.
Use a press cloth when pressing from the top.
And, another interesting thing I found out is that when you cut satin on the bias it definitely shifts more than, say, a quilting cotton. The stay stitching is super important to keep things lined up and shaped well.
It would also probably be easiest to do a rolled hem if you know how. I still haven't dared to change the settings on my serger so I did a regular hem which works, but with the curves is a little more tricky.
Satin is a super drapey, flowey, lightweight fabric that is perfect for tops such as the Stella and dresses. It takes an outfit to the next level in fanciness as it is somewhat shiny and quite silky.
But, the instructions are clear as always and I'm always impressed with the finishing details on the patterns.
The back has bias binding and the front has all the seams hidden as well.
Even the shoulder seams are hidden so it is a very clean finish.
The back has a seam which creates a more flattering shape and the front is a cross-over front.
You could use two different fabrics to make a more unique top.
I do think I would wear a top underneath as in my life as a mom my children often tug on my clothes or the top gets shifted while carrying them. It would then show off my belly and I personally prefer not to have that happen.
A top like this would be perfect for an office job or a date night--especially in this satin fabric!
This lovely fabric also comes in an ivory color.
It is almost fifty-nine inches wide and is made of polyester.
I'm definitely happy I got a chance to try this fabric out.
I've had the chance to learn new things and stretch my sewing skills a little.
Thanks for reading,
Hi, Vicky here, you can find me at vickymyerscreations.co.uk where I share many craft related tutorials, plus refashions and sewing projects.
Initially planning a light weight cardigan, once this Sweater Knit Fabric arrived I had a change of heart. I spotted the Kielo Pattern on line and fell for the unusual shape and design of the dress. I used the PDF version, if you have not a bought a print at home PDF pattern before I love how many designs there are. You print only the size of pattern you need (you can learn how to tape up a PDF pattern here).
I strongly suggest washing your fabric before you start as it could shrink during the first wash and you would be so disappointed. This fabric is made with polyester and elastane, but it almost feels like cotton, super breathable, described as a medium weight it was a little lighter than anticipated but is perfect for this dress. It’s a delight to sew, and hardly creases, a perfect combination.
The pattern has good clear instructions which I advise you to read through before starting. I love how the pattern makes no assumptions about your sewing knowledge, teaching you how to finish edges, transfer marks from the pattern to the fabric, start and stop seams amongst others, basics which are not always covered in a pattern.
The neckline and armholes are finished with stretch bias binding, this was my first time at using stretch bias binding, thankfully this was far easier than I anticipated. The dress looks a far more complicated sew than it is, four darts, four seams and the edges – the website has a free add on for long sleeves, perfect for winter months.
Before you start take the time to check the tension on either your overlocker or sewing machine overlocker stitch to ensure your seams lie beautifully flat when pressed. As I picked the project up and down I made a silly error, practising my seam tension on one of the pattern pieces… thankfully with a bit of patience I was able to unpick my practice seams!
I made a few errors as I went but I think the next time I sew it up it will be a 2-3 hr sew. It really does pay off to read instructions properly before you start!!
I love how the dress flows beautifully. At 6” tall I am delighted with the length of the dress, no pattern adjustments required. One of the aspects of sewing I love, which I am sure you relate to, is sewing items that fit you. This dress is perfect for a day trip out but also elegant enough for evening wear, I love how slimming it is. I prefer the design when wrapped around the front and tied at the back.
Will I make this dress again? My Mum and daughter have both put in a request for one so that is a resounding yes!!
Hi again guys! Today I’m blogging about a Rico Cotton Gauze Fabric navy blue. Since last summer I’ve wanted to make a Jessica dress, a sundress pattern from Mimi G. I had a fabric planned for my Jessica, but when I got a chance to review this cotton gauze I changed my mind. I had a talk with Vicki from Minerva about the amount of fabric to order, since some cotton gauzes can be very see-through and some not. We decided that I should order a bit more so I could make the dress in double layers.
But when the fabric arrived I was surprised to find that it already was double layered! A second layer of gauze is sewn to the back of the main fabric and it isn’t see-through at all. See picture below.
So, since I now had a lot of extra fabric on my hand, I decided to twin with my daughter and make her a sun dress too. I chose the Bree Dress pattern from Bebekins patterns. I fell for the back which has a really nice feature that I’ve never tried before.
I washed and dried the fabric and I think it shrunk about 2%. I didn’t iron it, it doesn’t crease so heavily and I´m fine with the light creasing cotton gauze has.
If you look at the fabric, do you see a directional or an un-directional print? I didn’t even think about it, I just laid my fabric out and started to put out my patterns pieces for the two dresses. It wasn’t until I held one of the bodice pieces upside down, that I saw that the fishes look a little bit better on one side. Of course it was the side that I DIDN’T choose. I hadn’t cut the Bree dress yet, so I changed direction on that dress, see if you can spot the very small difference between them.
Cutting and sewing cotton gauze is so effortless, especially after more difficult fabrics like viscose. I made this dress in a flash, hardly pinned the fabric together, it stayed where you put it :). I do change the needle to a thinner one when I work with cotton gauze. My machine doesn’t like the regular needle when I work with these types of material.
I wanted my bodice a bit more stable so I did the top in double layers, but the skirt in a single layer.
I like both the patterns but I had a little trouble with the instructions of the Jessica dress; they weren’t all that informative at times. The instructions for the Bree dress were, on the other hand, almost too informative. I got lost in all the text.
Cotton gauzes give you garments that look less crisp than cottons lawns. I wanted that effortless holiday-inspired look for our dresses, but if you prefer a more ironed, flat and crisp look, you should look for a more tightly woven fabric.
This was my most enjoyable sewing all year! Easy, effortless sewing and we got two super soft and chic sundresses. We have already worn our dresses a lot and took them with us on vacation. Since it doesn’t crease much it’s something I can highly recommend. We both love fish dresses and the only person that knows that one is upside down is me. (And now also my sewing friends :)). And finally, if you want to order this fabric, don’t worry about doubling the order since the fabric is already doubled.
Thanks for reading. Come and say hello over at my Instagram account, Bygousheh. Hope to see you soon.
Hello Minerva Crafters, it’s Marlies from madebyLIESL back again today to share this little green dress covered in daisies.
You gotta just love this fabric. It is a medium weight Cotton Jersey Fabric, available in this green and also in coral, grey, turquoise and yellow. I had a difficult time choosing which colour and obviously eventually went for the green one.
When I picked this fabric, a vintage dress with a low neckline popped into my head. Receiving the fabric I chose otherwise. Often I decide what to make in front of the mirror holding the fabric in different ways. Draping it like it is the dress. Then I discovered that the fabric should be closer to my face. Turns out this green was the perfect choice for my skin tone.
The dress I made was already in my pattern stash. A fitted princess seamed dress with cap sleeves. On top of the skirt is a longer semi-peplum. Searching through the Minervacrafts website I found a pattern which easily can be turned into the dress I’ve made. Namely New Look 6094.
As the basic dress you can use the fitted dress. If you want to recreate the semi-peplum, you could use the flared/pleated skirt for it. Just cut an asymmetrical line in the paper pattern of the front skirt and cut it a bit narrower at the shorter side. Attach the semi-peplum in the waistline and one longest side seam. I’ve mistakenly reversed my pattern piece before cutting the fabric. So my longer seam is on the left side instead of the right side as stated in the instruction of the pattern I’ve used. Ah well, it doesn’t really matter.
When putting the dress together I used a stretch needle and a stretch stitch. I’ve serged the seams which wasn’t really necessary, because the fabric doesn’t fray. I just like the finished look. The fabric has a medium weight so it is flattering (doesn’t show any lumps or bumps) and is also easy to iron.
I finished the hemlines with a stretch twin-needle. Just perfect. I even made a little belt out of this fabric. Turns out the dress didn’t really needed a belt. So I probably will wear this belt as an accessory in another outfit.
Before shooting the photo’s for this blog I found many daisies walking the dog. So I had to bring them as an accessory. I even tried to make a chain of it like I did when I was young.
I love the outcome of the dress! It’s super cute and so comfortable.
Do you want to see what more I’m up to? Check my Instagram or one of my other blogs.
Thanks for reading.
Posted in Projects on Thursday the 23rd April 2020 by Vicki Ormerod
Hello again, I’m Izzy and I’m on Instagram @topstitchrollhem
This time I’m delighted to be bringing you a review of a lovely, bright red Gabardine Fabric.
I’ve really started widening my colour comfort zone in my fabric choices this year – it used to be a combination of black, khaki and blue all the time – so the opportunity to sew with this gorgeous red fabric was really exciting. I find it can be difficult to interpret reds on screen, and I would say this one is a bright but cool lipstick red that tones slightly towards blue, rather than a deep or orange-y red. Perfect for pairing with pinks and blues, exciting!
The gabardine has a lovely twill weave which is really subtle but catches the light nicely. It’s a medium-weight fabric with a soft hand, a bit of stretch and good recovery. It’s not sheer at all and it’s a perfect bottom-weight material, though I can imagine it working really nicely as a fitted dress as well. It took me a while to decide how best to put the fabric’s attributes to use and eventually I decided on a wrap skirt.
I used the skirt portion of Vogue 8784 (view B) for this skirt. I like how secure the wrap is (always a worry otherwise!) and how the shaping at the front is formed with diagonal pleats, which is a bit different from other wrap skirts I’ve seen. I decided to shape the outer front skirt panel into a curve for a point of difference, which I’m sure I’m supposed to have measured and marked carefully but which I actually just used a big serving platter to trace around and curved the corner using that!
Once all the difficult decision-making bits had been done, the skirt came together really easily. The fabric does fray a little so I overlocked all the raw edges with my favourite rainbow overlocking thread, as well and overlocking the hem before turning it in for my favourite cheating narrow hem finish.
For the waistband, I considered using the main fabric but in the end went with some leopard print grosgrain ribbon which I attached from the top side using a zig zag stitch, as I wanted to preserve the full width of the ribbon as the waistband. It closes with two sets of hook-and-bars and feels very secure – and not a zip in sight, hurrah!
I’m really pleased with the fit of this skirt and how well the fabric shows off the pleats at the front. Also thrilled to have a skirt that is appropriate for work in such a fun colour! I’m really looking forward to wearing it and I’m hoping it will work in all seasons to bring a bit of sunshine into my days.
I’ve already got more plans for sewing with gabardine (I can imagine the Closet Case Patterns Pietra Pants working wonderfully well!) and hope to see some other people creating exciting things with it soon, too.
Thanks very much for reading!
I got this gorgeous sewing themed Canvas Fabric with the intention of making a bag and I had some fabric that’s been languishing in my stash for a few years whose colours matched for the lining.
I used the iron on bag foam interfacing. I wanted a usable and practical backpack. I quilted each piece with a crosshatch pattern before assembly.
I’ve had backpacks before and I have never had one that I felt had enough pockets or pockets where I want them so this was my change to draft up something that suited me. I drafted up pattern pieces with a finished size of 18” by 13” with a width of 4”. I placed a zip from the middle of the side pieces creating a wide opening for ease of putting things in the main bag.
My front outer zipped pocket had a couple of other pockets inside with a zip and also a clear pocket for cards ID etc, and a pocket divided for mobile phone pens and other bits and pieces. I also put a gusset in the lower outer edges which gave a wider opening, meaning even more can be stored in there (good for craft shows).
I used heavy duty zips, on the roll, and cut to size for each pocket and opening, I also put a concealed pocket on the back, with a nice little detail of a strip of the fabric over the bottom edge of the pocket for extra strength.
I used the foam on all the outside pieces, and as a double layer on the inside pocket for protection for a pocket for laptop/IPad tablet. I made a bias binding from the lining fabric which I bound around all the exposed seams on the inside of the bag. I used purchased Webbing for straps, with a strip of the bag fabric in the middle of the grab handle on top of the bag, and some metal bag making hardware such as square rings and adjustable rings to make shoulder straps adjustable as needed.
It surprised me how well everything went together, I made the side top panels with the zips inserted first then joined bottom side panel.
I made all the pockets in rotation and then assembled the bag pieces systematically. The iron-on foam was really good for the sturdy construction, but did not make any of the pieces too bulky for sewing.
I used a jeans needle and cotton thread throughout. The fabric itself was a great weight but not so heavy that it made sewing unmanageable. I am heading up North for the weekend and I’m able to get everything I need for my trip (apart from wellies) into my back pack. My next step is at looking at some kind of waterproof coating to make it perfect.
Hi! It’s Mari from @sewsincerely_Mars on Instagram and SewSincerelyMars.com and I am excited to collaborate again with Minerva for this blog post!
Vintage patterns can be expensive because they're often out of print and have become obsolete which makes it much more desirable. I love for vintage patterns, especially the styles from the 1940’s. This era did wonders in blending masculine and feminine details, which allows one to wear separate pieces while complementing both qualities. Simplicity 8736 was the perfect pattern to honor this era.
Pattern: For this blog post I chose Simplicity 8736 . I wanted more blouses in my wardrobe and this exquisite pattern was perfect. This pattern is fitted with darts on the back and pleats in the front around the bottom. The front of the blouse, around the shoulder seam, there’s soft gathering. View A and D have a Peter Pan collar with a lace option and another option to make the sleeves short or capped. View B and C have a high round neckline with full long sleeves. A feature these views have that is absolutely breath taking is the buttons on the back. This pattern turned out to be a button back blouse.
The Fabric: I chose the fabric prior to picking the pattern. The floral pattern to this fabric resembles watercolor which enticed me the most. There was no need for other color choices for this certain fabric. I used a Slinky Satin Fabric provided by Minerva. This fabric is comprised of satin and 100% polyester. Also, it is light weight and sheer with no stretch.
Tips: Since this was my first time working with satin, I learned not to use a hot iron without an ironing cloth. Please have this handy! Also, this fabric does not handle steam. While working with this fabric a microtex needle was used and it sewed wonderful; I eased up the tension dial on my sewing machine. When there’s too much tension it can cause puckers around the seam. I recommend using a scrap of fabric to check that first. My last tip is to invest in extra-long satin pins as this is essential when pinning light weight fabric such as this one. Its longer with a tapered point, which won’t snag when pinning.
Conclusion: The pattern and fabric were a match made in sewing heaven. I can see this fabric used in various ways such as flowy skirt, a dress, and an array of blouse options. This fabric becomes the focal point of any outfit and I highly recommend it. I want to thank Minerva for allowing me to share my experience with their audience and providing me with the opportunity to grow as a sewist and blogger.
Till Next Time,
Posted in Projects on Saturday the 18th April 2020 by Vicki Ormerod
Hello! My name is Aimee – the Sewing Scientist. Today I want to show you this amazing Lady McElroy Ponte Roma Fabric in azure blue. I initially wanted to make a maxi dress with this gorgeous ponte fabric. After I received this fabric, I already had another idea. I had seen hundreds of posts on social media of the Ellie & Mac South Shore Romper.
I’ve never been compelled to make a romper. The idea of undressing to use the restroom turned me off. But I was in love with how every woman looked amazing in their south shore romper. Since my measurements make me a pear shape and due to a medical condition my belly tends to protrude a bit. I often can look pregnant and try to avoid any styles that might accentuate the issue. Before I cut into this gorgeous azure blue ponte I made a toile (muslin) of the south shore romper with a cheap knit from my stash. I tried it on, loved it on me and even got my husband’s approval. But, I wasn’t quite convinced and put my toile to the real test and wore it to work. I received so many compliments. Now, I was finally brave enough to make the south shore romper in my “good” fabric.
First off let me tell you a bit about this fabric. The Azure Blue color is just amazing! It’s a gorgeous blue shade that borders on a purple tone. This fabric is a nice heavy weight. It would be perfect for pants, dresses, or jackets for fall & winter. It is a poly/rayon/spandex blend and I did experience some shrinkage when I washed in length and width. The width is 58” and I think I lost about 3” in width after washing and drying. I lost about the same in the length. This is a ponte knit and it has great 4 way stretch. Most nice ponte knits I come across only have 2 way stretch. That makes this ponte much more versatile than most.
I did make a few changes to the south shore romper. I am short! I am 5’ tall to be exact. I had to remove 2” from the length of the bodice so that it would end at my natural waist. I then measured my crotch from my natural waist in front to my natural waist in the back. I found that I needed to add 1” to the front and back rises to ensure I had enough room to prevent the crotch seam to ride up uncomfortably. I also shortened the legs by 2”. As you can see – I could use about another inch removed from the leg length. I am wearing 2.5” heels in these photos and the legs sweep the ground.
Since I did initially want to make a maxi dress, I decided to make the legs fuller to create a more dress like appearance. To do this, I added 4” to the width of each leg piece. I also decided that I really needed an elasticized waistband on my romper. I added ¼” elastic to the waist of my toile and didn’t feel like it was quite enough. With the extra volume in the legs I knew with all the gathers that I would really need bigger elastic. I added a 1.5” wide strip of the ponte to my bodice as a waistband and added 1.5” wide elastic as well. I serged these on together with my knife turned off. After I gathered the legs, I used my sewing machine to baste them onto the waistband I created sewing through both the ponte and the elastic. I went over it twice trying to make sure that the gathers were sewn down nice and flat. I then serged over the seam allowance with my knife off.
I am so thrilled with my south shore romper. I really feel like any woman can look amazing in it. Just be mindful of your measurements and make any adjustments necessary. Always make a toile! Check the fit for any additional adjustments. Then grab some amazing fabric and be ready to look amazing. I can’t wait to make another south shore romper. The Lady McElroy ponte comes in a few other colors and I might have to try another.