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A Denim Marigold Jumpsuit from Tilly and the Buttons

Hello all! 

Usually I blog over at Hyacinth Bloom, but today I’m quite excited to share with you something that I recently made in collaboration with the wonderfully, generous people here at Minerva Crafts.

The Pattern

Tilly and the Buttons Sewing Patterns have a bit of a reputation for being beginner friendly yet stylish. Tilly’s patterns are also incredibly wearable, many poised to become those wardrobe basics that you need. I have to admit, however, that when the Marigold pattern was first released last year I wasn’t immediately wowed by it. The promotional photos just didn’t grab me and whisper sweetly: “buy me and add me to your already overflowing pattern collection”. Lately, however, I have been craving comfortable handmade clothes. I think I’ve reached the point where I have twice as many fancy frocks than I do occasions to wear them. (Don’t we all reach that point some time during our sewing career?) So, on this recent drive for practical everyday clothes, I revisited the Marigold Pattern. Second time around it seemed like it actually had a good deal of potential. The peg-shape of the trousers particularly appeared to have the right blend of comfort and style. Feeling brave I resolved that I would launch myself straight into the deep end and make the jumpsuit version. With thoughts of an autumnal capsule wardrobe on my mind, I decided that the jumpsuit would be perfect layered over stripy tops when the weather turns inevitably colder.

The Fabric

With this dream garment in mind I knew I wanted to make it in a dark coloured denim. Denim, after all, goes with everything, doesn’t it? The one main problem with this was, of course, the practicality of the fabric. The pattern states the need for a drapey woven fabric. Denim is far from drapey. However, rather miraculously, Minerva Crafts had the perfect solution to my quandary. Their 4oz washed Denim Fabric (which I got in the darkest colourway) was exactly what I hoped it would be. It was soft, drapey and lovely to handle. (In fact, it was so lovely I’ll overlook the fact that it frayed at even the sight of a pair of scissors).

The Construction

Tilly’s patterns are a joy to work with. The pattern pieces themselves are sturdy, and clearly marked and labelled. The instructions are well-illustrated, each step comes with a handy picture showing you what it ought to look like. For those needing a bit more help the instruction booklet includes links to helpful webpages on the Tilly and the Buttons blog. All of this meant that the construction of the garment was pretty straightforward. None of the steps were particularly complicated to follow. My one deviation from the instructions was choosing not to understitch the various facings. Instead I opted to topstitch my pockets, straps and facings. I felt that this suited the denim jumpsuit I was creating, and my thread was so dark it hardly stood out anyway.

The Fit

Okay confession time, I didn’t make a toile. I really, REALLY should have made a toile though. Looking through the instruction booklet I cut out a Size 3, based upon where my body measurements fitted into the various charts. I merrily sewed it all up, feeling pretty darn happy with how I navigated the sweetheart neckline and pocket openings. And then I went to try it on and…it didn’t fit me. (Here is a terribly embarrassing photo, which I can’t quite believe I’m putting on the internet, but shows the fit of the garment straight from the packet). Now I admit I hadn’t at this point put the elastic into the waistband. This would undoubtedly have made it look slightly less weird. But the major problem no amount of elastic could fix, was the crotch seam. It was miles away from where it needed to be. When I sat down I had this awful pouch of fabric that made it look like I had been eating far more cake than I actually had. After getting a bit annoyed and refusing to look at it for a few days, I eventually bit the bullet and made some alterations.

Now these are only the second pair of trousers I have ever made (the first were wide-legged culottes, so weren’t even trousers really). As such I wasn’t entirely sure what I was doing, but I read a few things about trouser fitting and said a few prayers, before I ripped apart every seam I had so carefully sewn a few days before. I played around with my pattern pieces and compared them to the other ‘trousers’ I had made. In the end I plumped for shortening the crotch by two inches, trimming a bit off the curve at the inner leg seam and hoping fervently for the best. (I shortened the crotch by folding the paper up along the lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern pieces. Remember that you also need to do this on the pocket pattern pieces).

The Result

I made a jumpsuit! I can’t quite believe my first attempt at fitting trousers actually worked. The fit is so much better now (as hopefully you can see!) It might still not be perfect, but it is about as perfect as I want it. They are loose enough to be comfy, but not in an overly baggy or unflattering sort of way. The choice of the denim has made this an extremely wearable garment, as it looks quite casual and goes with a variety of tops. I’m not 100% sure if the jumpsuit suits me, but I am definitely going to be reusing and hacking this pattern. There are definitely more versions of the Marigold trousers in my future. (In fact I have another pair cut out already). I really also want to put a skirt on to the Marigold bodice. Perhaps I could somehow merge the top of the Marigold jumpsuit with the bottom of the Cleo dungaree dress. (The Cleogold dress?!)

Thank you Minerva Crafts for this practical and comfortable addition to my handmade wardrobe, and thanks everybody for reading!

Karen @ Hyacinth Bloom

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