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Vogue 9275 Sewing Pattern Review with Di

I jumped at the chance to review Vogue Pattern 9275, a Vogue Wardrobe design with 5 garments. I wear a lot of casual clothes and love to layer up, this was definitely for me! I also go to quite a few fitness classes and look for garments I can wear over yoga leggings so I feel comfortable walking through town! 
The pattern is rated as EASY.
I decided to make View B & D the sleeveless top and the leggings. I'll also be making view E in the near future, but I'm not keen on the zipped jacket. I had a wool blend jeavy Jersey Fabric from Minerva Crafts that I knew would be a good choice for winter.
The layout of the envelope back is the same as most of the large pattern companies.
Top A can be made from woven fabric, B, C, E and contrast for A requires 35% stretch. The fabric stretch guide for this is on the left side of the envelope. Whilst D requires 4 way 75% stretch Spandex (Lycra) and the stretch guide is on the right side of the envelope. I have to say this isn't immediately obvious!
The fabric I'm using for the top isn't going to drape well and this is going to influence the size I choose to make. As well as the size chart I'll also be using the finished sizes printed on the front pattern piece. My measurements put me firmly in Large 16/18 category. However the top is described as Very Loose Fitting and the finished bust size is about 10 inches (25cm) larger than my measurement! I actually cut the Small size with a finished bust measuring 44 1/2 inches, still giving me 5 inches of ease. This is going to make the neckline slightly smaller and will narrow the shoulders, but the top has dropped shoulders that would be easy to alter if necessary. In a much softer fabric like a single t-shirt jersey I'd be happy with a larger size as it will drape more.
 
Picture courtesy of Vogue Patterns and The McCall Pattern Company
What I like about Vogue patterns is they use very specific terms to describe the clothes.
Very loose-fitting, lined jacket.
Very loose-fitting pullover tunic.
Close-fitting pull-on leggings.
Fitted pull-on pants.
Understanding ease is really important when choosing patterns and deciding which size to make. Vogue Patterns use consistent descriptors for the fit of their garments and then have designated amounts of design ease for each fit category.
All patterns are made with fitting ease (except those that stretch to fit) this means there is just enough movement room. Patterns then have design ease added on top of the fitting ease. A Close Fitting dress has up to  3" whereas a Very Loose Fitting dress will have over 8". Equally Jackets have additional design ease as they are made to wear over other garments and coats have even more ease as they are made to wear over a jacket!
Ease is essential to good fit and comfort, getting to know how much ease you like is really important when choosing styles you'll be happy with.
Making the Tunic
The instructions include a glossary of terms, when these terms appear in the instructions they're printed in bold as a reminder to refer back to the glossary.
As the body sections of the tunic are quite wide they don't fit side by side on the fabric, so expect to have quite a lot of unused cloth.
There are only 3 pieces for the tunic and its really straight forward to make. Its worth thinking about how to finish the seams as they need to be pressed open to make the side vents and curved hem. The pattern seems to presume that modern garment makers still only have a straight stitch machine and don't offer any suggestions for using an overlocker or even zig zag stitch!
As the pattern is designed for a knit fabric it isn't going to fray so it's okay to just press the seams open. However; I chose to top stitch mine from the right side with a twin needle stitching either side of the seam.
The collar has 2 buttonholes for the cord to pass through. The instructions tell you to add small pieces of interfacing to make the buttonholes stronger.
The instructions for adding the collar will be confusing if its an unfamiliar technique. The collar needs to be inside the garment whilst stitching. Using the free arm on your machine will make stitching much easier. The diagram shows the collar in the finished position. This seam can be over locked or zig zagged. I chose to use a twin needle, stitching from the right side through the body and the seam allowances.
Both the collar and the sleeves need to be top stitched 3cm from the edge. If your machine doesn't have a 3cm line to follow you can use a piece of Washi tape. But don't leave it there for too long or the glue can be tricky to remove!
This is a really quick and easy top to make. The leggings took me about 20 minutes, however I wouldn't make them without a 4 thread overlocker (the instruction show them made on a standard sewing machine). I used the medium size for the leggings and they've been great to wear for Zumba and Pilates. If you're tall you might want to add a bit of length to the body area.
Come spring I'll make this top again in a lightweight fabric. I think it will make a lovely summer cover-up made in cotton voile of even silk chiffon. Just check you can get it over your head if the fabric doesn't stretch! Next I'm making the fitted pull on trousers.
Thanks for reading,
Di @ Sew-It With Di

Comment (1)

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Pat Hooper said:

Looks great Di. And thanks for including all those tips. · 20th Jan 2018 01:02pm