The Kinder Sequinned Cardigan
Posted in Product Reviews on Monday the 16th April 2018 by Vicki Ormerod
When I first saw the call for bloggers to join in the blog tour for the new Wendy Ward book I was unsure whether to apply. Would any of the patterns work for a pregnant body, I wondered? However, when I found out one of the patterns was for a cardigan I figured I’d be on safe ground. I’m of the firm belief that any cardigan can work over a bump. It’s just that some need to be left unbuttoned :-)
As luck would have it, the Kinder Cardigan turned out to be perfect for my needs: a roomy fit, no fastenings so it hangs open with plenty of room for the bump, and there’s a longline option which is something currently lacking in my wardrobe. After reading through the book I was raring to go—all I had to do was choose some fabric.
I browsed through the medium weight jersey fabrics on Minerva’s site looking for something a bit special that would make this cardigan something I could wear out in the evenings as well as during the day (versatility is key for maternity wear!), and found this wonderful sequinned textured Jersey Fabric. At the time of writing this post there is limited stock left in the black, but plenty in the other three colours (ivory, grey and mauve), all of which are really appealing too.
What I love about this fabric is the sequins are subtle, being small, quite widely spaced and the same colour as the fabric. This means the sparkle isn’t too DISCO for the school run, but it gives a luxurious shimmer under artificial light in the evenings. It also means that you can treat the fabric like any other medium weight sweater knit, rather than having to go to all the trauma of cutting out sequins from the seam allowance like you do with heavily sequinned fabrics. I didn’t bother removing any sequins before sewing and didn’t break a single needle. There are a few sequins that are in contact with my skin at the collar and cuffs, but they’re not remotely itchy so I’ve left them in place.
The patterns in Sewing with Knitted Fabrics are printed on sheets and need tracing out as the printing is on both sides and different pieces overlap. With the cardigan several pattern pieces were too large for the sheets, so had to be traced off two different sheets and joined together. I tend to always trace my patterns anyway, so this wasn’t a problem for me. The only thing I found a little confusing was that the cardigan pieces were printed on different sheets, but with each pattern having its own colour that made them easier to trace. It just took longer to find the pieces I needed than it would have if they’d all been together on one sheet.
When choosing a size I went with the middle size (96-101 cm) as the instructions said to go with your actual bust size, and mine was between that and the next size up. However, this turned out to be a mistake and I should have gone with my high bust measurement, putting me in the next size down (88-92cm). Perhaps it’s just me, but the oversized, boxy fit of the middle size just wasn’t doing me any favours. I thought I looked like a child dressing up in her parent’s clothes—not the look I was going for!
Luckily it was simple enough to take the cardigan in at the arm and side seams to approximate the next size down. I didn’t go to the trouble of redoing the armscye and shoulder seams, but I think I got away with it.
The instructions in the book are comprehensive and easy to follow, with plenty of diagrams. I did change the order of construction slightly by sewing the side seams before adding the neckband, so I could overlock along the bottom hem. This was essential with this particular loose-knit fabric as it frays and unravels.
I also used some Fusible Stretch Interfacing to line the pockets, which I fused on the cross grain to give the fabric more stability. As well as this I stitched some twill tape across the top fold of the pockets as I was worried about this knit stretching and bagging out. It doesn’t have the greatest recovery, and I know I tend to overstuff my pockets at times! My final pocket reinforcement was sewing small triangles at each side of the top—a technique I’ve used before for patch pockets.
I’m really happy with my finished cardigan, although I’ll admit it’s not the warmest fabric so it hasn’t yet had a huge amount of wear. I can see this changing once spring finally gets going, though. It’s the perfect basic layering piece that goes with most of my wardrobe, and that subtle sparkle makes it more fun than a plain black cardigan has any right to be.
As for the book as a whole, I’m really impressed. I’ve got several knit sewing books on my shelves now and have been sewing mainly knit fabrics for the last few years, but Wendy’s book definitely brings something new to the party and I found some really helpful tips in there.
What I particularly like about this book is the really comprehensive charts of knit fabric types, along with the best stitches and needles to use with them. I wish I’d had this information at my fingertips when I started out sewing knits as I’ve had to pick it up by trial and error.
I was puzzled that there’s no mention made of using clear elastic or stretch interfacing for stabilising purposes (regular interfacing is mentioned for solving problems hemming), as they’re something I use all the time when sewing knits. However, for the projects in this book they’re not necessary and perhaps Wendy left them out to keep things simple for knit beginners.
I will definitely be making more from Wendy’s book in the future, although not until after I’ve had the baby. The Derwent Wide Leg Trousers and the Monsal Lounge Pants look like the perfect secret pyjamas for wearing while looking after another littl’un, so I reckon those will be first, although I’m also tempted by the dress version of the Winnats Tank. Decisions, decisions… although not one I need to make for a few months. I’ll just get the whole giving birth thing out of the way first. And the sleepless nights. Heh, I’m not nervous about this impending life change at all…
Happy sewing, everyone!
All materials for this make were kindly supplied by Minerva in return for an honest blog post. Thank you, Minerva!
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