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The Glitter Jersey Sirocco

This is my second Deer and Doe Sirocco and will not be my last. Seriously, I can’t tell you how much I love this pattern. I’ve tried so many jumpsuit patterns and every single one has made me look like a frumpy sack of potatoes. Not the look I’m going for! I think this pattern may actually be magic. It’s flattering, has perfect pockets, fits well and is oh so comfy. Ever heard of secret pyjamas? That’s what this jumpsuit is. It feels wrong leaving the house wearing it. 

My current measurements put me in a 44 bust, 42 waist and 46 hip. As I’m a bit bigger in the bust than the C/D cup the pattern is drafted for, I cut the bodice in a 42 and added 1cm to the length just under the bust. It’s a bodge job, but it does the trick. The pattern itself calls for a minimum 60% stretch, so it’s actually pretty great at accommodating larger bust sizes.

I cut the waist in a 42 and graded the trousers from a 42 at the waist to a 46 at the hip. My personal preference is for slightly slimmer legs so I may taper them on my next version.

The Jersey Fabric I used is a mid to dark grey with a gorgeous glittery pattern. I think it’s dandelions, but I’m not entirely sure! Whatever it is, it has a beautiful sparkle without being over the top. It’s subtle, but still noticeable. I washed the jersey before I cut and it didn’t appear to shed much glitter. It will definitely need a gentle hand when washing in the future, but the quality is fantastic. The jersey has loads of stretch, a really important feature if you’re making the Sirocco jumpsuit. It’s also real soft and oh so comfy. 

The pattern calls for clear elastic just on the pockets but I added it to the neckline, waistband and shoulder seams too. You can’t use too much. It does such a fantastic job of stopping everything getting stretched out during wear. Especially important since you have to stretch the whole thing to get in and out of it.

You can see even after wearing it all day, the neckline still hugs my body. I do find myself checking it’s in place, but I don’t think there’s much risk of accidental exposure!

If you finish your seams with an overlocker, I find this is the easiest way to add the elastic. Just be careful not to stretch the elastic as you sew, or you get wavy pockets like these. Oh well; they still work. 

About the only issue I have with this pattern is where the bodice pleats pull the waistband up. There’s so much fabric there, I’m not sure if there’s any way to fix it. It’s purely aesthetic, but if you know of a fix, please let me know! 

Thanks for reading. You can follow me @theboldstitcher or read more of my sewing adventures at theboldstitcher.co.uk

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Black Suedette Dress

Hello!  It’s Carolyn; still the somewhat newbie around these here parts, and I have made a new dress for myself! using this rather cool black Suedette Fabric. I think the end result has a delightfully witchy vibe which I am totally ON with.  Suedette is one of those unusual fabrics that you would not obviously reach for when thinking “dress” however I’ve always found it to be a beautifully soft and pliable fabric that works surprisingly well for this purpose. This particular sample is very light and drape-y, so I chose a design with a substantial swish factor and I think it really turned out quite feminine! and at the same time the distinctive suede texture lends it a sophisticated and deliciously dark edge.

For my pattern I used one from a new-to-me company, Forget-Me-Not Patterns. Their inaugural pattern is the Clementine dress; a princess seamed, fit and flare design for stretch knits that can be made as either a top or a dress. Other variations include a simple scooped neckline or a gently draped cowl neckline, and three different sleeve lengths.

I opted for the dress version, with a cowl neckline and three quarter sleeves; and added 15cm in length at the hemline of the skirt, which is actually the very maximum I could get out of my 2m of fabric. In fact I’m rather chuffed with myself that I did manage to achieve this; a subtle waist seam for the side front and back pieces happened, and a centre back seam too … but who’s going to know that was not intentional all along, hmmm?  And my scraps are practically non-existent, hurrah!

The black suedette is perforated all over with tiny pin-prick holes; adding a nice extra texture to the suede-iness (definitely a word) and with it also, a distinct sheerness of course! So I chose to underline my dress pieces entirely with a rather fragile, light coffee-coloured bamboo knit that is so airily thin it’s almost non-existent. I’ve had this in my stash for quite a few years, in fact it was one of those fabrics I never really knew what to do with until this particular project came around! It adds zero bulk and must the right amount of opacity. The downside of bamboo knit I’ve found is that it does take forever to dry, strangely; while the suedette actually dries in a flash!

I cut all my underlining pieces to be 5cm shorter than the suedette shell layer at the sleeve hems and lower hem of the skirt pieces, and then otherwise treated them as a single layer of fabric. The pieces were stitched together, before overlocking/serging the raw edges to finish.

For the back neckline; I simply overlocked the suedette self-facing and turned it down to encase the underlining and top-stitched a hem on my sewing machine.

For the front cowl neckline, the front/front facing was wrapped around the shoulder seams, sandwiching them within before stitching, which keeps all seams nicely encased and hidden within the shell and underlining.

I hemmed the sleeves; however the suedette does have a remarkably stable cut edge and I had happy suspicions that the long swishy skirt; which is not subject to the same strain that those tight-fitting sleeve edges suffer, may not actually require hemming. So as a kind of lazy-girl’s experiment I decided to forego any finishing or hemming of the lower edge of the skirt and see how it got along. And so far, so very good!  I’ve worn and washed this several times and it’s been absolutely perfect!

I’m so very happy with this wonderfully swishy new dress; thank you so much to Minerva for the lovely black suedette, and thank YOU for reading!  Until next time!

Carolyn @handmadebycarolyn

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Separate Sewing With Familiar Fabric

A little while ago, you may have seen me on the Minerva blog, wearing a Jazz jumpsuit in this Gorgeous Fabric. In that blog, I explained that I had a plan for it and when it arrived, I ended up changed my mind. This project change meant that I had ended up with a little bit of this fabric left over and wanted to make use of it so you’ve got a second blog from me…but with some fabric you’ve seen before. If anything that just shows the versatility of this rayon crepe.

I had already made a jumpsuit for the original blog post so I really wanted to avoid making something that was a one piece, as in a dress or another jumpsuit. I took to looking in my pattern stash to see what separate patterns I had got. I was initially looking for some type of top, but then I came across this Simplicity 8605 Pattern. A few of the big box stores in the US have occasional pattern sales for the ‘big 4’ pattern companies and I know that I had bought this for about $1.99. I always try to stock up on patterns when these sales are on as I know I’m lucky to have access to them being that cheap! The culottes appealed to me the most but once I had taken a second look at the pattern, I really loved the longest length version and knew that long trousers were something that was missing from my wardrobe.

I cut a medium in this pattern and feel like that sizing was perfect. I sometimes don’t use the ‘big 4’ patterns as much, as I know from experience that their sizing can be a little tricky to get right. The pattern had 4 pieces; front, back, pockets & casing. I didn’t cut a tie belt as I thought it would be lost in this pattern print anyway. There was also a pattern piece for the elastic but I ended up just using that as a guide and not actually cutting it out.  

If you’ve never made trousers before, this would be a great pattern to start with as I feel like there’s not too much to worry about with the fit and construction. These were pretty straightforward to make and had simple side seam pockets.  

I found that the elastic casing was the most interesting part of the construction. It was a folded casing with a hole on the inside section to feed the elastic through each channel. There are two channels for the elastic and the pattern recommends using 5/8” elastic. I still created 2 channels but then settled on using just one of the channels as I only had wider elastic on hand. Using the lower channel for the elastic meant that the final look had more of a paperbag waist style, which I think looks great!

These trousers will be perfect to wear in most seasons here. They are light in weight and they pair well with a vest top, or once it gets a little cooler, I could easily wear these with a regular t-shirt. 

Natalie @threadsnbobbins 

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Make Your Own Sunshine

Hello again friends, Miranda here, and today I'm sharing another pattern hack.

At any one time, I have a few sewing ideas and hacks knocking around in my brain, and sometimes those ideas need a little nudge before they manifest into something wearable.

In this instance the nudge came from a post on the Tilly and the buttons blog. It was all about hacking ideas for her Stevie dress/top pattern. One of the suggested hacks added a ruffled hem to the Stevie. This matched my idea of making a boxy, loose fitting dress with a ruffle at the hem perfectly. Since this look fits my style, trying out this hack was a no brainer for me. So let's talk about the fabric.

I chose to work with this stunning Robert Kaufman Essex Linen, in the aptly named colour, Sunshine. The first thing that jumped out at me was how vivid the colour was. It's a rich shade of yellow and the pictures on the Minerva website are spot on.

The fabric is listed as medium weight and at first I thought I may need to line this dress but it wasn't necessary. Linen is a fabric that becomes softer with each wash, so after I prewashed it as usual, I also washed it again after making the dress and I was able to notice the difference in softness and drape.

To achieve this look, I made the dress as instructed but I took 6 inches off the hem. I stitched two gathered rectangles together then attached them to the bottom of the dress. I also added pockets to the side seams. I decided to use french seams throughout the entire dress. Linen can fray so this helped to combat that (you could also use pinking shears to reduce fraying) and I also want this dress to last. Linen is known for its durability, so with french seams, I hope to be wearing this dress for many years to come.

Another added bonus to this dress is that it can been worn with the back yoke turned to the front. I actually like this look when I add a button instead of the optional ties.

Now let me tell you about the superpowers that lie within this dress. It was an exceptionally hot day (by British standards) when I took the photos for this dress. Even though it falls below my knees, the dress kept me remarkably cool. It was like air conditioning for my body. The breathable quality of this fabric makes it perfect for warm weather, and the choice of colours in this range means you will find one to suit your mood/garment.

Both the pattern and the hack are, in my opinion, suitable for beginners. The pattern comes with great written and colour photo instructions, which is usual for Tilly's patterns. The fabric is also beginner friendly because it's what I like to call a "well behaved fabric." It's stable, presses really well and is just a joy to sew with.

I hope you've enjoyed my take on the Stevie pattern. Until next time, thanks for reading, keep sewing (and hacking). 

Miranda @mirry_maker

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Geo Ruska Knot Top

Hi! It’s Cass and this month I had the opportunity to try out this awesome Geometric Jersey Fabric. It’s 8% elastane and has a tiny bit of a rib texture. It is SUPER soft, and has an awesome structure. It doesn’t curl at the edges after cutting, presses really well, and does not wrinkle easily. 

I wanted to make myself a Ruska Knot shirt from Named Clothing’s Breaking the Pattern Book.

Notions:

I cut out all of my fabric with a rotary cutter.

I used a size 80/12 needle for jersey and made sure that my serger also had ball point or jersey needles.

I used some knit hem tape – basically just knit interfacing that comes in long strips – for hemming the ties and the sleeves. 

For the few things that I sewed on my sewing machine, I used maxilock thread in my bobbin and knit stitches.  For the hem on the ties, I used a triple stitch – I love the look and strength of this stitch, but it takes DAYS to rip out if you make a mistake. I also used a twin needle for hemming the sleeves and bottom, as well as for the neckband. 

I have previously made the dress with short sleeves, and it was really flattering on me, so I wanted to try the long sleeve top version. I have seen a few versions on Instagram and noticed that they come up a bit high at the belly area and would be a bit too revealing for work, so I ‘broke the pattern’ and decided to make it just like the dress version – with a front flat panel under the tie parts to fully cover my stomach when it is tied. I had to determine the length I wanted because the shirt pattern isn’t created to have the front flat panel. So, I cut my lines just a couple of inches above the hip line on all three pattern pieces (front flat panel, front ties panel, and back panel). I also didn’t want full long sleeves, so I cut the sleeves several inches short of the long sleeve mark. 

I generally don’t pay much attention to pattern matching – like it usually doesn’t even cross my mind, but when you have a seam going right down the front center of your shirt, and a geometric pattern, I thought it would be good to consider! For this reason, I cut my two front tie panels separately (rather than folding the fabric and cutting) so that I could line up the print perfectly. I calculated where the seam would be (1 cm) from the cut and lined up my pattern piece 1 cm beyond the center of the geometric piece.

Luckily I could see the print on the backside of the fabric, so I lined up the print and pinned making sure I was hitting the same part of the print with the pin on both pieces of fabric. I then basted along the center line using a long straight stitch. There were several places that I pulled the basting stitches out of and wiggled them up or over a bit so that it looked perfect.

While I like this pattern and the fit of the top and dress, I have found the instructions to be a little confusing or odd. So, since I had made this top before and knew what I was doing, I was able to use my own methods a bit more. For example, the instructions say to sew all seams and then finish them (like you would when a woven), but I chose to just serge all of the seams. After I had hemmed the front ties and sewn the two front pieces together, I went ahead and basted the two front panels together along all of the edges except for the bottom.  This way, when I was seaming and finishing the neck, it was as if I was only working with the one piece instead of two pieces. 

Finally, I have recently come to really like neck bindings instead of neck bands on knits – at least for some things. I have an Instagram post showing how I do this. For this project, I cut out a strip that was 1.5 inches wide by 19 or 20 inches long (it always turns out much longer than I need it, which is fine). I sew one shoulder seam, and then with my widest serger stitch, attach the binding strip to the edge of the neck opening, right sides together. After it is attached, I sew the other shoulder seam, and then double fold the rest of the strip around the serged seam allowance and stitch it on with a twin needle. For this one, I pre-pressed the neck binding so that it would fold around the allowance really neatly and be a clean finish inside. It is tricky to explain, but hopefully the photos help a bit.

And that’s it! It is a pretty quick shirt (or dress) to construct. I’m really happy with the finished shirt. The length is perfect for wearing with jeans that are mid or high rise and the fabric is thick enough and has sufficient structure that it lays really nicely! 

I had a bit of my 1.5 meters of fabric left over, so I made my 2.5 year old son some Siem Shorts!  I LOVE this pattern and it is a great scrap buster. It’s a free unisex pattern from Beletoile that can be found here and comes in sizes 98 to 164 (about age 2 to 14). It does not include seam allowances, but I have never added any, except for on the waistband. For the shorts, I wanted a contrast binding, so I grabbed some black cotton spandex from my stash (you could use something like this or this) and I did my binding using the exact same method I used for the neck band binding on the Ruska Top. I did use a zig zag stitch for a little extra strength. And, as you can see, pattern matching totally escaped me on these – hopefully his friends won’t make fun of him too much;)

Thanks for reading,

Cass @craftyprofessor

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Back to Basic

After nearly two years of sewing all kinds of items, I recently realised I need basics. I like to hunt for special patterns and fabrics, which make beautiful items, but in the end they are quite tough to combine with each other. Guess that’s something you suddenly realize, standing in front of a filled closet and you can’t seem to find a casual outfit on Monday morning… So, for some months now, I’m challenging myself to focus on the items I need in order to make my closet more versatile and appropriate for various occasions and all seasons. I must make better decisions to fill the gaps in my wardrobe and be more aware of the colors and styles I lack.

With that task in mind I had to turn this pretty Jersey Fabric into a versatile item that would be a good addition to what I’d already made. I really love it because it has a nice shade of blue, some stretch and these little holes that give it a cool see-through look. I have always liked these kind of details that make a fabric special in a subtle way! Despite of the holes it feels firm and stays in shape well and therefore I didn’t want to make anything that needed lining. So, I thought about what I needed and what would work with this material and decided a cardigan would be perfect!

But what would my perfect cardigan look like? Well… that’s quite a list: I would love it to combine well with other items and not cover them all up, therefore it can’t be too closed. In fact, it doesn’t need to have any closure at all, for I wouldn’t even use it. I also don’t want it to be too long or wide cause that makes me look short. In other words, it needs to follow my figure and not be too massive. Speaking of style, I would like it to be comfortable, yet sophisticated and feminine at the same time. Could there be such a pattern?

With all these wishes I gave myself a difficult task to find the right pattern. Once you’ve got something this specific in mind it’s a challenge to find the one that ticks all your boxes. It was a long search, in which I couldn’t find a recent pattern, but I’ve collected over a decade of sewing magazines and finally found the perfect one in an old Knipmode-issue.

In contrary to my pattern-hunt, it turned out to be one of the quickest projects I have ever made and I really love the shape and look of it. I think it’s a perfect match with this fabric cause the holes give it that something extra, as I wished for. I love the rounded shape of the collar and that it has exactly the right amount of covering what’s underneath it. The only thing I changed is adding cuffs to the sleeves so they would match the collar.

It also has the right style as it can be worn casual and classy, depending on what I combine it with. I can wear it with both pants and dresses in different colours and styles. This one really inspired me to make some more cardigans and wear all my short-sleeved makes all year round.

Thanks for reading,

Esther

@thememadewardrobe

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Feline Fine

There is one trend we have seen over the past few seasons that I will never be over, and that is leopard print! Its neutral and interesting, all at once. I have been looking to swap out some of the traditional “basics” on my sewing slate for a leopard print version. This Fabric is the epitome of versatility, and a great choice whether you already have a project in mind or not. It could become a number of  garments for Fall and Winter- a blazer, a skirt, a dress, a pair of fun trousers, or dungarees! It may be a short step away from an entire cat suit, but I'll be wearing this pair all the time.

To prepare the fabric, I pre-washed in the warm cycle and put it through a tumble dry (but alone, to avoid potential pilling) It came out looking perfect, that's a win for the poly fabrics. This fabric has a crepe texture and a bouncy feeling, that doesn't want to crease AT ALL. (I'll come to the pressing part soon.)  The stretch is good and recovers well at 6% spandex. You have 58” width to cut those large pieces out, and I preferred the rotary cutter and pattern weights to manage it better.

I chose the Mila Dungarees by Tilly And The Buttons, because their shape is so cute on so many different sewists. The pattern is lovely, the fabric is quality, but I do not know that I'd combine the two again.

I made a straight size based on my full hip and I am pleased with the fit. I don't know that I would make them without any stretch in the fabric, but more for comfort and movement than actual fitting.

As soon as I began to sew, I realized the scuba-like quality of this fabric meant these would be my number-one, most comfortable, mom uniform. I also realized that I wasn't going to get crisp edges and totally flat seams without some extra work. I edge-stitched nearly every single seam to have it lay neatly. I also decided against the double button plackets and hacked a single side zip instead. It was really easy, and I really like the result. Its convenient for sewing and wearing.

I'll walk you through it quickly.

I chose a 9” zip to ensure I could easily get in and out of them and there is plenty of room, especially with that stretch.

Sew the LEFT front and back side seams together (do not follow the placket instructions), and sew the waist band front and back pieces together at the LEFT side.

Finish the RIGHT front and back side seams separately. Hold the zipper so the top is 5/8” below the top of the pants piece, and mark the bottom of the zipper. Baste the RIGHT front and back side seams to that mark, then backstitch and continue with a normal stitch length down the entire side seam. Pin the zipper tape face down along the seam allowance, lining up the tape edge with the finished seam allowance edge. Sew with zipper foot at 1/2 “ SA. Pivot and the bottom of the zipper and continue up the other side of the zipper tape. Unpick the basting stitches, press flat, and top-stitch at 5/8”. This hides the zipper and manages the fabric, making it lay neatly. Continue in the pattern instructions to attach the waistband. (you will attach it as one long curve, finishing with a single button closure on the right side only.)

I love my leopard dungarees so much, I'm not too concerned with the challenges they presented. The moral of the story is : if you make what you love, you won't remember the trouble of making it...or something like that! This fabric is a hero in my busy, messy, fun, mom-life; travelling, bending, cushioning, washing, drying, and wearing.

Purrfect.

Until next time!

Cortney @s.is.for.sew

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Retro A-Line Mini Dress

Hi Everyone, 

For my latest Minerva Make I was requested this mind-blowing Neon Printed Suiting Fabric, what drew my attention to this fabric was the crazy colours and beautiful print! Although this is suiting fabric I chose to create an A-Line mini dress from a self-drafted pattern. The fabric is a medium weight but has a great drape to it.

I had originally planned to keep this pattern as simple as possible to emphasis the print, however after a little mishap when cutting the fabric (oops), I had to put a zip down the CB which I hadn’t initially planned to have, however it wasn’t the end of the world. 

Due to the darts in the bust and the angle of the side seams I was unable to pattern match completely, but cut the fabric so the key features of the print would run horizontally across the dress inline with each other on the front and back. Pattern matching down the CB took a little more time, but I think I managed to do a good job of it after my initial set back. 

This dress was relatively quick to sew; I started by fusing a light weight interfacing to the facings before inserting the concealed zip, making sure that the fabric sat as close as possible to the zip. However the last inch of zip became a little difficult to run through my machine whilst getting it as close to the fabric as possible. I had stitched this last little bit to keep it inline with the rest of the CB zip. Once that was finish I sewed up the rest of the CB seam and stitched down the bust darts. 

As I decided not to have any sleeves I needed to bag out the facing around the neckline and armhole. This proved a little tricky pulling the fabric through the shoulder gap, making sure I didn’t catch and stitch any unwanted fabric in these seams, but I managed ok!

To avoid any unnecessary bulk around the neck and shoulders everything was stitched as an open seam. Things did seam a little bulking still but after a quick press everything settled down and I quickly stitched up the side seams. After pressing I felt that my zip finishing could have been a bit neater at the neckline, but to finish the fastening I decided to attach a hook and eye. 

When sewing A-Line dresses I am always a bit concerned about the hemline dropping, so I quickly gave the dress a try, measuring from the hem to the floor to check the hem level, before over locking the side seams and stitching the hem. 

Although there was a few set backs I am very pleased with the final outcome!

Thanks for reading! X

Jasmin @jasminmarie_design

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Festival Time!

Ethnic, tribal, boho…… not sure how I would describe the design on this border Knit Fabric but I thought it was perfect for the festival season!

This fine knit has a stretch running across the width of the fabric and is composed of a polyester, Viscose & Elastane mix. It’s lightweight feel is perfect for floaty tops, dresses or holiday wear as  it doesn’t seem to crease easily when packed in a case!  Due to its fine thickness it can be quiet translucent in sunshine so a dress may need to be lined.

I chose to make a loose style top using New Look 6376. I made view D but added the split sleeves.

This pattern is designed for a non-stretch but it worked well with this lightweight knit. I wanted to make the most of the bold border along the edges so used this as the hemline edge, positioning the neckline to make the most of the central diamond motif.

This top has only a few pattern pieces so was a great quick make with its wide A-line shape to the hemline and an interesting angled side seam. It’s a bit hidden in this busy design but would look great for a different colour block effect.

The fabric was easy to work with as it had enough weight to not slide about too much when cutting and stitching. Being a knit  it didn’t fray but I still used an overlocker to give a neat finish.

Having had the original thought of festival wear I had to try it out when partying in the park.

Being machine washable, on a gentle wash, and quick to dry this fabric has been great for the beautiful sunny weather we’ve been having. Its light and comfortable to wear so is now currently my favourite top to wear for my Pilates class!

Happy sewing :)

Nicky @ Sew and Snip

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The Betty–Anna Dress

Hi all!  I hope you're all well and having fun being creative and crafty!  I've got a new project to show you today showcasing the most stunning floral print Cotton Sateen Fabric.  

You all know how much I love a floral print and when I saw this on the list of choices I absolutely was desperate to make a dress from it. The fabric is as lovely as you'd expect from a John Kaldor print. The colours are vibrant and the fabric soft and luxurious feeling. Because the print is such a large scale I knew that I would need to pick a pattern that featured simple design lines. Nothing too intricate or fussy and nothing with a lot of seams. I didn't want to break up the print any more than necessary.

I was pretty sure when I requested the fabric that I wanted to make a Sew Over It Betty dress - I love the swish of that skirt - and it would work so well with the large scale print!  But then I started thinking about the By Hand London Anna bodice. I've made three Anna dresses in the past and after taking part in the #30daysofdresses Instagram challenge in July, I was reminded how much I love wearing my Anna dresses!  However the skirt has lots of seams and that wasn't going to do my beautiful fabric any favours, so I thought why not combine the Anna bodice I love so much, with the swishy, full skirt of the Betty!  I set to work quickly once the decision had been finalized in my mind and got everything cut out. I did have to trim down the skirt a bit to match up with the bodice, but that was a pretty easy peasy fix to do and my skirt is still lovely and full of twirl and swish potential! 

I've just recently rediscovered the joy of taking time to do french seams and how beautiful they are on a garment. So I decided to French seam my Betty-Anna dress - special fabrics deserve special treatment and although this is a cotton sateen it's on the lighter side, so I wasn't worried too much about bulk where seams meet up.

I did have a bit of a conundrum about how to french seam the side seams with the inseam pockets I was adding in, but a quick search of Google and a YouTube video from Kittenish Behaviour gave me some great tips and it was smooth sailing!

Then of course the centre back zip presented another bit of a head scratcher. I really didn't want to have to abandon the French seams at that point, but thought at first that I was going to have too. Before giving up though I headed back to the computer and back to Google, figuring if there was a way to do it, there would be a tutorial somewhere and sure enough there were a few. I used one from Handmade by Carolyn and it worked a treat! I swear this zip is the best invisible zip I've done to date! There’s a little “blip” where I sewed it not quite as close to the zip at the waist seam, but other than that everything lines up so nicely and I’m so happy with the way the print matched up too! I was so incredibly pleased with myself. I'm pretty sure I spent a good 10 minutes after I finished up the centre back just admiring my handiwork. There is nothing quite like a well-done zip to make a sewist feel like a wizard is there? Kind of like a knitter turning the heel of a sock. I am magical! LOL

I couldn't love this dress more!  It's everything I imagined in my head when I decided to combine the Betty and the Anna dresses. Combining patterns or modifying them isn’t something I do terribly often, I do have a tendency to follow the straight and narrow (probably easier too) path of sewing a pattern as designed, but I am definitely learning to take a chance on things and branch out of my comfort zone a bit more these days. It’s not nearly as hard as I always worry it’s going to be and in the case of this dress, combining two favourite patterns gave me exactly the dress I wanted so it was well worth it. This cotton sateen is as amazing to wear as it was to sew and I know this dress is going to go straight to the top of my favourites list!

Sarah @ prairie-girl-knits

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