A High Street Inspired Hinterland Hack
Posted in Projects on Tuesday the 27th August 2019 by Vicki Ormerod
You know that mental block you get when you see everyone around you wearing a style but you just can't picture yourself wearing it? This happens to me all the time. Lately the stubborn streak in me has been winning these internal debates and has pushed me to dabble in silhouettes I once questioned, making them my own.
In general I've avoided gathered waists and midi lengths in fear they wouldn't flatter me. Funny enough, a dress I'd been seeing everywhere has not one but both elements and yet I couldn't stop thinking about it. So when Minerva reached out with an invitation to collaborate, I immediately thought to attempt this look in their lovely Cotton-Linen Blend Fabric
For the pattern I didn't bother looking for something exactly the same. The elements are quite simple and I figured with a little hacking the Sew Liberated Hinterland Pattern
I'd already purchased could get me there. I cut a straight size 8 in the short sleeved, full-length, full-placket option and commenced hacking.
The most notable differences between the pattern and my inspiration are the V neck, a longer & slightly more fitted bodice and generous patch pockets. I started by lengthening the bodice 1 1/2" to fall just below my natural waist. Since I'm actually a 6 waist according to the chart, I graded down and removed some extra ease by drafting in 1 1/2 inch waist darts. This was super easy, especially since the bust points are marked on the pattern (bravo, Meg!) To achieve the V neck I would forgo a binding + placket situation in favor of an all in one facing. That meant the center front would overlap and needed extra width. I decided 1 inch would do. Then to change the neckline I marked a point 1 1/2 inch down on the center front and drew a diagonal line, blended into the original neck curve near the shoulder seam. A neckline facing was easily drafted by tracing from the shoulder seam to the center front and again around the back neckline from shoulder seam to shoulder seam. For the facing width I matched the pattern's placket piece, and attached that to my drafted neckline facing to create the all in one facing.
With all the changes to my pattern pieces complete, the construction was a breeze. I made no changes to the skirt (which is just 3 rectangles) besides omitting the inseam pockets and adding on massive (nearly 8"x8") patch pockets. I know there's lots of convoluted techniques for gathering out there but I swear by a simple 3 rows of basting stitches, not too long, not to short. 4mm works for me. Last but not least, I decided to topstitch (gasp! the horror!) my facings down all the way around. I don't mind the look at all and that way everything stays in place perfectly.
The fabric is absolutely perfect for this dress, or really a summer uniform of any kind. It washed up beautifully, sews and presses well and is notably less wrinkly than pure linens I've worn. I'm incredibly satisfied with the way this hack turned out and I hope you try it too!