A Super Swishy Satin Rosalie Midi Skirt
Posted in Projects on Monday the 13th January 2020 by Vicki Ormerod
Hello again Minerva Crafter's!
I haven't sewn with satin before so I'm a little bit nervous about this months make. Neither have I sewn a lined skirt before!
When I first saw this beautiful patterned Satin Fabric
on the website I initially thought it would be lovely made up as a Tilly and the Buttons Fifi pj set, but once I received the fabric in the post I saw that the pattern was larger than I thought it was going to be so I thought it would look stunning as a midi skirt.
I narrowed it down to either a self drafted half circle skirt or the La Maison Victor Rosalie skirt. In the end I went for the Rosalie skirt. Although the pattern calls for a heavier weight fabric I thought it would still look lovely in the satin.
The pattern isn't a lined skirt, but I knew that the skirt would hang a lot better with a lining so I used some blue lining fabric from my stash. Any lightweight dress lining would work well. The pattern pieces were a little bit tricky to trace off the magazine, as the pattern pieces are all embedded in one another, but with some time, patience and a sharpie to highlight the lines I needed to trace it didn't take too long.
My current measurements are 34-29-36 and I cut a straight size 38. When I was cutting the skirt front and back pieces I lengthened them by 10cm as I wasn't sure what would be the most flattering length on me so I wanted the flexibility to be able to decide on the final length once I'd finished the skirt.
Cutting out the fabric was tricky as satin is pretty slippery and I really took my time making sure the weft and weave were level. Using rotary cutters really helped - I definitely wouldn't have been so accurate if I'd been using scissors. I also tried to pattern match as much as possible so that the waistband would look neat and the repeating pattern went all the way round the skirt pieces. To sew the fabric I used a microtex needle and wonderclips instead of pins so that they wouldn't leave any holes in the fabric.
As I wasn't making a toile I basted the lining together first as I knew I could use this to make sure the fit was right. Which was just as well as the skirt was massive - way too big by a good 4 inches or so!
I'd already cut out the self fabric so decided to use my limited knowledge, wing it and reduce the pattern pieces by eye. It was so big that I wouldn't have been able to simply take in the side seams as it would mean that the pleats would be in the wrong place.
I unpicked my basting stitches and repositioned the pleats using the centre front line as a guide and my eye to place them where I thought they'd best fit. I did the same again with the two rear pieces, making sure I'd left sufficient seam width for attaching the invisible zip. I basted the side seams together just to double check it fitted and it did! Hurray!
By now I'd well and truly abandoned the pattern instructions and was going it alone!
I drafted a new waistband, as the old one didn't fit, and as I drafted a straight waistband I decided to make it narrower so that it would fit my body better. I decided to leave the pockets out this time as it was such a lovely floaty fabric and I probably wouldn't use them. Once I'd attached the waistband I double and triple checked the measurements and I then attached the invisible zip. I interfaced the lining material where the zip would be attached to give a bit more stability.
I levelled the hem off after leaving it to hang overnight and then used my ¼ inch foot to ensure my hem wasn't wobbly! I probably should have done a turned hem, but I simply overlocked and hemmed it, and looks pretty good to me.
Phew! I was finally done! This felt like a bit of a mammoth sew and I nearly cried when the first lining was so big. But I used my knowledge to make it work and I'm so pleased with the finished skirt. The fabric worked perfectly for the pattern; it wasn't as slippery to sew with as I thought it might be, and it's a skirt that I'll definitely wear all year round.
Thank you again Minerva for the supplies!
Until next time...