A Textural Take On Vogue 1620
Posted in Projects on Sunday the 26th July 2020 by Vicki Ormerod
Hello! Emilia from @emilia_to_nuno, reporting from Tokyo, Japan.
I have been living in the land of the rising sun for a few years now and I can’t deny I have been heavily influenced by the local style. By “local style” I don’t mean the colorful crowds of Harajuku or the girls donning a seemingly endless collection of pleated midi skirts, I mean kimono, the national costume of Japan. I know, this is kind of an interesting twist for a self-proclaimed lover of Scandinavian minimalism with a penchant for perfectly starched white shirts, but, without a doubt, we are all influenced by the environment we live in. Plus, I appreciate the comfort of the kimono’s very wide sleeves…and you can use them as pockets, too!
With my love for all things Wafuku (Japanese-style clothing) in mind, I was looking for an easy jacket to wear on a regular basis (aka every single day), but which would still look presentable when going out (not that this happens very frequently these days, but let me dream!). I had a plethora of patterns in mind, but I also wanted it to reference Japanese clothing without copying it (even just in the name), and have it not be too casual in cut.
Very importantly, I also wanted it to have big pockets. Bonus points would have been granted if the look was achieved by means of a comfy, no-fuss fabric. In the end I settled for a pattern which has been sitting in my collection for a while waiting to be realized into a suit, Vogue 1620
I figured that with just a few modifications the jacket would be the jacket of my dreams. In addition, the bias bound seams give it a slightly more elevated look, despite it being an unlined jacket.
As for the fabric, I wanted a comfortable one with the stamina to sustain a lot of not-so-gentle wear. As some of you may have noticed from my Instagram feed, I wear black 99% of the time, or occasionally black and white (this also extends to my kimono-wearing, which often prompts the question of whether I am going to a funeral), and for this reason, texture is key if I want to avoid looking like a cardboard figure printed in Vantablack.
Luckily, Minerva had my back! I picked a Cotton Double Gauze
, which fit the bill perfectly, as it is breezy and textural, but also requires zero maintenance. As often in my makes, I wanted to incorporate Japanese elements or fabrics, and this case was no different. In addition, I reasoned that a contrast collar would be a nice detail to add to this pattern, and result in a more swishy, casual, and of course interesting final product. I am not sure you will agree, but I am very pleased with the result! Inspired by the fold-over collar of the haori (a sort of jacket one wears on top of kimono), I doubled the collar piece on the pattern, and made it out of fabric from an old haori I got at a flea market for recycling purposes. I love how these two fabrics complement each other: the square crackled texture of the double gauze is a perfect balance to the striped net (called Ro in Japanese) of the up-cycled haori.
I wanted an airy, loose silhouette for the sleeves, and I simply altered the pattern to continue straight down from the shoulder seam, instead of tapering down. I also omitted the shoulder pads, as my shoulders are wide as it is, and I wanted a soft silhouette for this version.
I also managed to save the himo, the string that closes the jacket front, from the original haori. This gives a nice pop of color to an otherwise unassuming garment.
Overall, I am very pleased with the result. I have already worn it a lot since I have made it. The pattern is very easy to follow, and it can be very versatile depending on the choice of fabric.
I hope you enjoyed this post, and happy making to you all!