Atelier Brunette Viscose Dobby Melilot
Posted in Projects on Friday the 15th February 2019 by Vicki Ormerod
If you are part of the online sewing community, chances are you've probably seen the Atelier Brunette Moonstone Viscose
popping up everywhere in your feed this part year. And no surprise there - their modern prints in delicious colour palettes are pretty irresistible! So when the autumn season came around and Atelier Brunette Released their New Collection
, I was excited to see they have outdone themselves again. The new collection includes several new prints in their soft as butter viscose challis, called Tabby and Shine, which Moonstone fans are sure to love.
To me, the real gem of this collection is their new substrate - Viscose Dobby Fabric
, which comes in the beautiful Posie floral print and two colours, blue and green. I was delighted to have the opportunity to review the Posie blue from Minerva. My first impression of the viscose dobby is that it has the weight and hand of a cotton/silk lawn. The weave structure is delicate yet strong, with tiny textured dots through out, hence the dobby part. The little dots catch the light slightly as the fabric moves, which gives it a lovely sheen.
Posie blue has a midnight navy background with all the on trend autumnal colours in a modern brushstroke floral pattern. The auburn and blush pink especially would pair so well with some of the Atelier Brunette solids available. Of course being viscose, it is very smooth and soft with a lovey drape. But it does not shift and move like fluid as the viscose challis would. Thus it's perfect for a garment that requires a drapey fabric yet has some intricate construction components. I pictured a long sleeved shirt/blouse in a feminine silhouette, with some fun collar/placket details.
I debated with the popular pattern choices such as the Kalle and the Archer, but decided upon the Deer and Doe Melilot
for several reasons. First, I love the feminine waist shaping of the Melilot. I am a petite 5'2" and boxier shirts tend to swallow me. Secondly, I feel like the floral print of Posie goes better with a more 'blousy' shirt rather than a classic shirt. Melilot has no yoke and the plackets are included in the bodice piece, which gives it more of a soft floaty look overall.
Like all Deer and Doe Patterns
, the Melilot is meticulously drafted with such attention to design details. I love the gentle round collar and the slim hidden placket which goes so well with the delicate dobby fabric. The shirttail hem has the perfect curve front and back. I shortened the front bodice by 1.5 inches to suit my petite frame, and left the back bodice as is to create a little bit of a hi-low hem.
The instructions of the pattern are very precise and thoughtful. I especially love that all seams are french seamed leaving no raw or serged edges. This again is a perfect match for the dobby viscose, which quite easily frays due to its light weight weave. Having made shirts many times before, the whole construction process went fairly quick and smooth for me including the hidden placket. I like that the plackets are one-piece with the bodice so there's no need for pattern matching. I added bar tacks between button holes to keep the hidden placket in place - always a nice detail to have.
As mentioned, Melilot has no yoke in the back which further simplifies the construction. While I appreciate classic shirt details such as sewn-on plackets and yoke, often times they are not necessary components in a feminine drapey shirt in my opinion. I love the simple and chic spin Deer and Doe has put in the Melilot design.
While the long sleeves do include a classic tower placket and open cuff, I omitted the placket and drafted a closed cuff instead. Easier to sew and more comfortable for rolling up = win-win in my book! But if you are looking for a well drafted tower placket and clear instructions, Melilot does have you covered!
I love my viscose dobby Melilot so much! It's definitely one of those special wardrobe pieces that you reach for on the days when you need a pick-me-up. The chic feminine silhouette pairs perfectly with the luxuriously silky fabric. Putting it on instantly makes me feel pretty and confident at the same time. I wonder if Atelier Brunette might release more prints in the viscose dobby in the future? I'm already dreaming of a short sleeved Melilot in a springy pattern =)
Until next time,