Cashmere Wool Halla Coat from Breaking the Pattern
Posted in Projects on Tuesday the 8th January 2019 by Vicki Ormerod
I am back on the Minerva Crafts blog with another project to share. This time I was lucky to try out a lovely Cashmere Wool Fabric.
This is a "heavy coat weight cashmere and wool blend fabric with a lovely soft finish. This fabric is great for making classic coats that will keep you warm and will last for years". It is so soft to the touch that I want to wrap myself in it all the time. The pattern I chose to use my fabric is the Halla coat from Breaking the Pattern book, recently released by Saara and Laura Hutha (Named Patterns). For the lining I used fabric I already had in my stash.
The fabric is very easy to work with. It does not fray. Therefore finishing the raw edges is not necessary. Becasue both sides of the fabric look the same (the difference is indistinguishable to the naked eye), I used some safety pins to mark the right side and wrong side. I did this more to avoid sewing my pieces the wrong way around. I did not want to end up with 2 left sides, rather than one left and one right.
I found that for this fabric the most effective making method is by using thread tacks.
Using chalk can be messy (specially once you start handling the fabric during construction). Also, you can’t clip into the fabric to mark pocket placements. It takes a bit of time to do this, but it is worth it.
Although chalk can be messy, I used it on the wrong side, only, to mark the hem line, so I could reinforce the bottom of the edge with interfacing (the fabric is quite springy).
On this fabric you cannot not press seams flat. If you are using the iron on it, it’s best to use a low temperature setting on the wrong side of the fabric. I hand-tacked the seam allowances down to keep the seams flat, except for the parts where I used top-stitching. It did take a while, but I felt that it had to be done, even though the jacket is fully lined.
I found that my coat came together quite fast, considering I was working with 20 pattern pieces (including the lining). I think this was because of the fabric being so easy to work with. My coat looks pretty good and the finished garment looks very nice, in part because of the quality of the fabric.
My tips for working with cashmere wool:
if pressing the fabric is necessary use a low setting on your iron and only press on the wrong side. (the fabric content wool, cashmere and Nylon make the fabric sensitive to heat)
the seams would not lie flat so you can either hand-tack the raw edges or top-stitch all the seams
consider using top-stitching at the edge of the hems if you are looking for a crisp edge.
A beginner would not have problems working with this fabric. To a beginner stitcher I would suggest to pick a simple coat pattern with simple design lines and good instructions. It’s a good idea to pick a pattern with fewer pieces. It will make the process of making a coat less daunting than it might seem if using a complicated pattern with many pattern pieces.
Thank you for taking the time to read my blog post. And please do share your makes on Instagram/Twitter by tagging @MinervaCrafts and/or using the hashtag #MinervaMakes. I’d love to see what you create.
Agnes Dalrymple said:
Beautiful coat and great review. Fabric looks lush x · 13th Jan 2019 06:46am
Calcedonia Sewing said:
Oh, that is lovely! It looks very cosy , well done! · 8th Jan 2019 04:15pm