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Dawson Coatigan by The Thrifty Stitcher

I followed the progress of this pattern with interest on Instagram, it was fascinating to see how Claire-Louise Hardie (the Thrifty Stitcher!) developed and finessed the various elements of it as she sampled it, up to the point that she was ready to release it for sale. It has flattering style lines with princess seams in the front which curve into hip pockets, the back also has princess seams and there’s a horizontal seam just below the natural waist. The collar curves up smoothly against the neck and the back collar has a ‘sunray’ of five darts spreading out from it. The cuffs each have 3 similar darts, the details on this pattern has simple but so stylish.

Minerva generously provided me with a nice firm Ponte Roma Fabric in a plain navy to make the Dawson in, it would also work very well in a boiled wool or a felted wool. Anything fairly structured and stable would work well to effectively show off the style lines. You could get some interesting effects with checks or stripes if you want a challenge!

Areas like the pocket edges and the neck need stabilising with some iron-on tape or strips of interfacing, especially in a knit fabric like Ponte. You could stabilise the shoulders with seam tape or scraps of ribbon to prevent stretching too. I used a specific needle for stretch fabrics and you could use the ‘lightening’ stitch to sew with if your machine has it, or a very straightened out zigzag. If you do use boiled wool the layers could be quite thick, use a straight stitch but you may need to lengthen it a little more than usual.

The pattern comes in eight sizes which are not numbered in the conventional way so you work from your own body measurements to choose which size should fit you. I cut and sewed a size F and on reflection I could have gone down at least one size, if not two. I misjudged how much ease there might be in the garment (plus I’ve lost a bit of weight recently) but I can wear this version layered up over jumpers or sweaters on warmer cool days if that makes sense. At the end of the day it’s intended as a casual coat so don’t make it too small as you’ll always be pulling it closed across you. The sleeves are pleasantly roomy too, I’ve noticed some coat/jacket patterns seem to be a bit snug on the sleeves.

The pattern goes together well and all that tweaking in the sampling stage is borne out in the final version. I found the instructions pretty clear, they are mostly photographs and there are some really useful hints and tips which will come in very handy if you aren’t that experienced in your dressmaking yet.

You could top stitch all the darts down, possibly in a contrast thread if you like, but because the Ponte has a slight stretch I didn’t do this on mine. I did top stitch down the front facings though and caught them down in a couple of places on the inside to stop them flapping.

Overall a nice addition to the casual jacket pattern market, it’s a well-drafted and executed pattern from an independent designer and the Minerva's Ponte Roma works well for it.

Thanks for reading,

Sue @ susanyoungsewing

Comments (8)

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Meg An said:

That looks great - nice to see something that looks like it's shop bought from a good retailer. · 10th Mar 2019 10:31am

Joyce Mussett said:

Agree with the comment below · 10th Mar 2019 10:18am

Sewanew said:

Your coat looks tailored and well made, cle · 7th Mar 2019 07:15pm

Sewanew said:

Your coat looks tailored and well made, cle · 7th Mar 2019 07:15pm

Sewanew said:

Your coat looks tailored and well made, cle · 7th Mar 2019 07:15pm

Sewanew said:

Your coat looks tailored and well made, cle · 7th Mar 2019 07:15pm

Sewanew said:

Your coat looks tailored and well made, cle · 7th Mar 2019 07:15pm

Sewanew said:

Your coat looks tailored and well made, cle · 7th Mar 2019 07:15pm