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Deer and Doe Bruyére Flannel Shirt

As with all new fabrics, I washed and tumble dried this Cotton Flannel Fabricbefore cutting. It didn’t appear to shrink (I forgot to measure first) but it did bloom beautifully. It become much softer and felt ‘bouncier’ than before washing. 
It’s currently freezing here and cotton flannel/brushed cotton is a favourite of mine to wear during the winter weather. It’s just so cosy and comforting. I wanted something I could wear out and about so I chose the Deer and Doe Bruyére Shirt Pattern. It’s a tunic length shirt with some lovely details. It also happens to be about the sixth version I’ve made! I find it very flattering and incredibly well suited to those of us with larger hips or a bit more ‘junk in the trunk’. 
This flannel is unusual compared to others I’ve used as it’s a generous 60” wide. It’s also easy to cut and a pleasure to sew. It has a small amount of give across the width meaning it would probably work well for more fitted patterns too. 
The Bruyére shirt has a waistband and separate button plackets, making it a great choice for cutting small pieces on the bias. I cut my sleeve cuffs, back yoke, button plackets, sleeve plackets and waistband all on the bias. It’s subtle, but I think it just about works with the llama pattern. I also interfaced the waistband and the middle 2 inches of my button plackets along the length to stop them stretching out. 
If you’ve sewn a shirt before, you’ll more than likely be familiar with the most common construction method. The Bruyére does things slightly differently. I decided I liked my usual method best, so made a few changes to the construction. It can get a bit fiddly because of the waistband, but it all works out in the end. 
I sewed the top 6 inches or so of the button plackets and attached the collar using the burrito method, rolling the collar and back bodice to the inside. I then set in the sleeves. Since the armhole is flat, you can get away with not needing any gathering stitches on the sleeve head. I find it much easier this way to eliminate any puckering around the sleeve head. Just make sure you use lots of pins and take it slowly! Since the flannel has a bit of give, it was actually fairly straightforward sewing the sleeves. 
Once the sleeves are attached, I sewed the sleeve seams and bodice side seams all in one using a flat fell seam. I like to start at the bodice and finish at the end of the sleeve with a flat fell seam. The sleeve gets very bunched up during sewing, but it’s not impossible. Speed is not your friend during this bit!
Once the sleeves were attached and the side seams sewn together, I attached the waistband in one piece. Since my waistband was cut on the bias, I added interfacing and a waistband lining cut on the straight grain to stop everything getting stretched out during wear. 
Next I sewed the skirt panels together, again using a flat fell seam. I then attached the skirt to the waistband and topstitched, catching the waistband lining underneath.
For the hem, I used some bright yellow satin bias binding. It’s such an easy finish and works really well on curved hems like this. Then I finished off the plackets as per the instructions and added some contrasting yellow buttons. 
The finished shirt is so cosy to wear and feels like secret pyjamas. Worn with my fleece lined leggings, I can stay warm even when it’s freezing. 
Brushed cotton/cotton flannel is so difficult to find in the UK unless you want plain pink or yellow. This is also one of the nicer flannel fabrics I’ve found. Even nicer than some for more than twice the price! This is a really lovely fabric, perfect for a whole range of garments. And at a fantastic price. 
Thanks for reading,
Sarah

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