Did I Do That? Flannel Plaid Pants
Posted in Projects on Tuesday the 3rd December 2019 by Vicki Ormerod
Ok, so two things, one, this Brushed Cotton Fabric is gorgeous and two, this fabric is hot. As in, my knee caps are sweating, but hey, my new pants are fabulous.
I didn't know I needed a pair of plaid pants until I saw this fabric. How can I describe them? It is your typical plaid pattern that has a red base color, a black checkered pattern with white and yellow stripes. It is a very thick flannel that has a semi-loose weave. It has a tendency to stretch with normal wear and tear (or sitting, standing, walking). I was able to get back some elasticity by washing them and then placing them in the dryer. In hindsight I probably should have interfaced the pant legs, but my vision still came to fruition.
So about my pants? I used the Ultimate Trouser pattern by Sew Over It. It's a cigarette pant pattern that has 2 darts in the front and 2 in the back. The pattern calls for an invisible side zipper and a tapered leg. The pattern has 4 pieces and comes with very detailed, but short instructions. It's not an overly complicated pattern or one that is a "new idea" but more so a classic idea that you can easily build, re-draft and make into your very own.
I highly recommend re-drafting the pattern on trace paper and then making a muslin prior to cutting into your fashion fabric.The reason being is that, like most patterns, the measurements are based on an average size. If you want a more tailored look, then your process will be a little more involved. I graded my trace paper pattern from an American size 16 for my waist, to a 14 for my hips and tapered the pant legs by an inch more on each side of the leg.
When I was making my muslin I used a woven twill fabric with a 7/8 seam allowance. I had several trials and errors with the seam allowance. In the end the pant fit was perfect!
When it was time to cut into my plaid fashion fabric I learned that the pants fit very well in my calfs, waist and hip area but they needed to be taken in around my knee and lower thigh area. I had to ease in about an inch on each side of the pant leg in my knee area for my seam allowance. I thought this would give me "wiggly legs" but it actually gave my pants an even more fantastic fit.
And now for my pattern matching. It’s not perfect, but I’m content with it. It actually wasn't hard, but it certainly was exhausting. It takes a lot of careful and thoughtful cutting to make the lines work together coupled with the fact that the fabric had a looser weave. Without stretching the fabric, I decided to begin cutting my waistline for all 4 pant pieces on top of the black checkered row and to have the side seam begin on the vertical black checkered row.
I’m not going to lie, this was out of my comfort zone, as far as pant fitting and working with flannel for anything other than a scarf. However, it was a very rewarding experience and I very much look forward to standing out amongst the crowd in the cold dead of Winter!
Thanks for reading,
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