Feather Print Jersey Sirocco
Posted in Projects on Monday the 26th August 2019 by Vicki Ormerod
I chose this gorgeous Cotton Jersey Fabric to review because of the beautiful feather print. This is a great quality jersey and so soft. It’s a medium weight and has a good amount of stretch in all directions.
I had a really tough time trying to pick a pattern for this as it would work well for so many things. In the end, I settled on the recently releasedDeer and Doe Sirocco Jumpsuit. I’ve tried numerous jumpsuit patterns with no luck, but thought I’d give this one a go anyway.The pattern requires a fabric with at least 60% stretch and this has just about enough.
Based on my measurements, I needed a 44 bust, 42 waist and 46 hip. I cut a 42 back bodice and sleeves, and a 42-44 front bodice. My cup size is an F/FF and normally I would make a full bust adjustment. In this case I went for the quick and lazy alternative of sizing up just in the front. I also sized up the waist to a 44 as it has a lot of negative ease and I wanted to be sure I could get it over my hips! For the shorts I cut a 44 at the waist grading out to a 46 on the outer hip only.
Sewing the jumpsuit itself was pretty straightforward. Having said that, Deer and Doe instructions are very basic and expect you to have some sewing experience. The only thing I changed in the construction was to sew the sleeves in flat, before sewing up the side seams. It’s much easier than sewing them in the round at the end.
The instructions have you sew clear elastic on the pocket opening only. I added clear elastic to the shoulder seams, neckband and waistbands too. I’m surprised the pattern doesn’t recommend this. Since you’ll be constantly stretching the jumpsuit to get it on and off, clear elastic stops the seams getting stretched out permanently. It means the neckband hugs your body too and feels really secure.I overlocked all my seams and attached the clear elastic at the same time. I love this stuff and can’t recommend it enough. Just don’t iron it directly as you risk melting it.
Sewing the jersey was a pleasure. I used a stretch needle, a walking foot and a lightening stitch. Some seams stretched a tiny amount while sewing, but were easily fixed with a good press from a steam iron. Cotton jersey is definitely one of the nicer knits to sew, ideal if you haven’t used stretch fabric before.
I whipped this up in an afternoon and am seriously in love. The size is spot on and the length is so close to perfect. I need just a smidge more length on the front bodice but it’s still totally wearable. (My lazy alternative to a full bust adjustment didn’t work quite well enough!) You can see where the waistband is being pulled.
The fabric and pattern are a match made in heaven and I’ve finally found my holy grail jumpsuit. It’s flattering, it’s comfy, it (almost) fits, it has big pockets and there is zero chance of accidentally falling out of the top. I love, love, love it and am already planning the next one.Thanks for reading,Sarah
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