Juliet Crepe Jumpsuit
Posted in Projects on Saturday the 8th June 2019 by Vicki Ormerod
As the name suggests this is a very soft fabric (100% polyester). It’s very smooth and has a lot of drape and comes in 20 colours. I felt that the Solina jumpsuit pattern from the Named Patterns book ‘Breaking the pattern’ would be the perfect match for it. I chose to go with plum because I am trying to use colours I do not normally go for (although this one is pretty close to purple).
The fabric is not the easiest to work with so I ended up trying to use some special tools and techniques. To cut the fabric, I used micro-serrated scissors (the blades have serrated blades so that the fabric does not move too much when cutting). If not available, cut out your pattern pieces with the fabric sandwiched between sheets of tissue paper.
To mark the wrong side and the darts/notches I used carbon paper and a tracing wheel. The water soluble pen (this is my preferred method of marking) was not accurate enough as it just seemed to bleed into the fabric rather than marking.
For my project I used sewing machine basting to mark the hems. For me this is the best method to mark accurate hems on fabrics that slide/move a lot.
To keep the stitching even I used a strip of paper to sew the seams/hems under the bottom layer as well as a narrow zig-zag stitch (this makes the stitch even).
I went all out with this fabric, I even hand basted the hems before stitching them in place. I tend to skip that step because it takes too long (hand baste and then take all that thread out). But this fabric needs it.
To make my life easier, for the facings I used cotton lawn and under stitched the facing to prevent them from peeking out to the right side.
Originally I wanted to use a matching zipper but I did not have one in my stash. And since I did not have an invisible zipper long enough either (in any colour) I felt the need to make a feature of the zip and used a white metal teeth one (the white ones were the only ones long enough, but don’t tell anyone).
What do you think? Did it work or is it weird walking around with a white line from your neck to your bum? Lucky for me that I cannot see it when I am wearing it.
My tips for working with crepe fabric:
use micro-serrated scissors or tissue paper under/over the layers to cut the fabric.
Consider cutting the fabric on one layer (I am too lazy to do that)
use scraps of fabric to test marking methods (I used carbon paper with tracing wheel and thread tracing)
take the time to hand baste hems/seams to be accurate when stitching, especially if you have not worked with slippery fabrics before
consider using a narrow zig-zag stitch rather than a straight stitch.
Thank you for taking the time to read my blog post. And please do share your makes on Instagram/Twitter by tagging @MinervaCrafts and/or using the hashtag #MinervaMakes. I’d love to see what you create.
Meg An said:
Georgeous on you but way beyond my abilities so glad you told us about the fabric. It would have been too much for me - probably given up sewing if I'd bought that fabric. Thank you for the tips. · 8th Jun 2019 07:58pm