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Layered Embroidered Tulle Flint Pants

Hello again!  I’m excited to share with you about making the Flint Pants by Megan Nielsen with Embroidered Tulle Fabric, under layered with Rayon Challis Flint shorts.

Initially, this was another project where I picked the fabric first for inspiration (without a pattern yet in mind). I knew a skirt would be really nice with the fabric but I decided to go a different route. I had an idea to make pants with this fabric. 

I have been really inspired by all of the embroidered tulle garments that I’ve been seeing online by the designer Adam Selman.  Check out this link if you’re not familiar with his work.  It was through this rabbit hole that I had the thought of sewing layered pants.

I had been wanting to make the Megan Nielsen Flint pants pattern. I loved the option B/D as there is an adjustable tie closure built into the garment. It’s a very creative and unique closure option for pants (without a zipper).

I have to share that I worked with a similar fabric from Minerva last year that had a faux leather overlay on black tulle. As you might guess, I really enjoy experimenting with this fabric base. 

I used the following machines for this project.  The standard machine was utilized for most of the sewing and the overlocker was used to finish the bottom edges of the rayon challis.  


  • 2.6m, Embroidered Lace Fabric (reference size chart for fabric meterage needed)

  • 1m, Rayon Challis fabric, black (reference size chart for fabric meterage needed for shorts)

  • 15cm, Lightweight Woven fusible interfacing, black

  • 80/12 Universal needle (and serger needles, if finishing shorts edges with a serger)

  • Matching thread

  • Iron

  • Glass head sewing pins

  • Tweezers

  • Hand sewing needle and thread (for tailor’s tacks)

  • Paintbrush or point turner


I admittedly did not sew a muslin for this project (I just jumped in and went for it with the final fabrics).  


I sewed views B and D for this project (with the tie and hidden button closure).  A helpful aspect with this project is that this pattern includes both the shorts and pants which made this layered project so much simpler. 


I decided to sew these pants at a size referencing my hip dimension. I selected the size 12 and did not grade down for my waist (which is smaller than my hips). I decided to adjust the button hole spacing to bring in the waistband to fit my dimensions. I also knew that with the tie closure, this allows for easy adjustment in the waistband as well.

One really exciting option with this pattern is there is also a Curvy size range!  I love that this option is available with Megan Nielsen patterns and I am excited about the size inclusivity!


There are lot of resources on the Megan Nielsen website with tips on sewing this pattern.  I referenced this post for tips on lengthening the pants and this post on sewing the tie waistband.

The Skyline S7 (or Atelier 7) includes two stitch plate options with the machine (a straight stitch plate or an open stitch plate for non-straight stitches).  When sewing the embroidered tulle and rayon challis, I found it helpful to use the straight stitch plate on my machine. This helped not pull the delicate fabrics down into the bobbin area and made stitching very easy.  I also utilized the Dual feed foot and Zigzag foot A when sewing seams on the Skyline S7.

Pattern Mods:

I lengthened the cropped pants by 6” (15.2cm) as I wanted to exaggerate the length between the rayon challis shorts and tulle pants.  I found in the end that I cut off 2” of the pants with the heeled shoes that I’m wearing in the photos. The the total length that I added to the pattern was 4” (10.2 cm).

As I decided to sew one size (not grading across sizes), I sewed two buttons and buttonholes in the waistband (rather then one as mentioned in the pattern).  Adding the second button and buttonhole helped bring in the fit for my waist dimension.

I sewed French Seams for the side and inseams of the shorts and pants.  This took some time as the project was essentially making two garments into one but it was so worth it!  I was really excited that the seam allowance included in the pattern is 5/8” (1.5cm) as that makes an easy reference for French Seams.  For French Seams I prefer to sew 1/4” (0.5cm) for the first seam, trim this seam to 1/8” (0.3cm) with pinking shears and then sew 1/2” (1.3cm) for the second seam.

I used the Taylor’s Tack technique to make the darts for the front and back of the pants in the embroidered tulle fabric.  After I sewed the darts in the tulle fabric, I used tweezers to remove the tailor’s tack threads.


I wanted to include a photo of the Flint Pants/Shorts Fabric Meterage/Yardage for this project for reference:

Final Project:

After I taped together the PDF pattern, I used a highlighter to mark where to cut for my size with the shorts and cropped pants (for an easy reference).  Some PDFs have the graded sizes shown in different colors but I will typically print in Black and White to save colored ink.

I had a small length of Rayon Challis in my stash (approx 26”, 0.7m). Funny enough this amount that I had was just perfect for the length that I needed for the shorts. I knew that making the waistband in the Embroidered tulle fabric would be too flimsy (and I didn’t want the interfacing to be visible through the tulle) so I made the waistband in the Rayon Challis fabric.

For the construction, I decided to sew the pants and shorts separately and then attach them together at the waistband. I sewed the shorts and pants in parallel.  In hindsight as you can see through the tulle fabric, I would have preferred to have trimmed the french seam allowances with straight scissors (not pinking shears), but that’s me being picky.  

I have to confess that I’ve never sewn a garment this way, with the lining separate from the tulle. I looked up some suggestions for lining pants. One reference was to omit the pocket from the lining and just sew the pocket in the outer fabric. I didn’t prefer this approach with this project as the tulle overlay is more delicate than the underlaid Rayon Challis. I knew that pockets sewn only with tulle fabric would not be functional. I decided to continue the construction with each of the garment pieces separately (shorts and pants).

When it came time to lay the shorts and pants together (at the top waistband seam) I was able to align and Baste the top edges of both fabrics together easily. With the construction of the flap pocket it made it very easy to align the edges together as you do not Baste or sew the flap pleats or pocket closed until the end.

One issue I ran into is that I could not easily place the right side tulle pocket into the rayon challis pocket after it was sewn. The right pocket is not a hanging pocket but is sewn into the side seam. To fix this issue I trimmed up to tulle to the slanted top edge of the pocket without cutting into the top of the pocket seam. I could then place the tulle pocket inside the rayon challis pocket. I then sewed a new seam along the snipped tulle pocket side edge.

I was a little confused by the waistband attachment as there is an extra flap included in the waistband for the button. I found a photo on the Megan Nielsen blog that was a helpful reference for which edge of the waistband is folded up into the inside of the pants.  I have included a photo of the wrong side of the waistband, for reference.

At the waistband ties, I like to grade the corner to help encourage the pointed finish when the waistband is turned right side out.

My favorite tool to push out a corner in a waistband is the end of a paint brush.  It’s blunt so that the end won’t push through the fabric while also being small. It’s also a tool that a lot of people already have on hand.

I found a fun, matching button in my stash for the waistband. This experience is one fun example of why I enjoy having a button stash. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been working on a project and I’ve been able to look through my buttons stash and find a button that fits well with the garment. I say this to encourage you to keep a well curated button stash. It pays off in the end for situations like this when you don’t want to leave the house and you can quickly select a button you have on hand for the project. I decided to add a second button to the waistband as I brought the first buttonhole further than the pattern recommends. I decided that adding a second button would help reinforce the stress put on a single button around the waistband.

Final Thoughts:

I love these pants! I knew I would like them but I did not know how much until they were finished. They fit me really well without any adjustments. That is rare for me as I more typically have a shorter crotch curve than most standard patterns. 

I can’t tell you how excited I am to wear these out for a dressy option while also being very comfortable. The tulle gives almost a built-in air conditioned effect (for a fun pair of dressy pants to wear in the heat).  

I did want to note that the left pocket is decorative and not functional (utilized to get the pants on and off with the hidden closure). I absolutely love that this pattern does not have any zippers and has a built-in adjustment with the tie closure.

In hindsight with this project, I would recommend overlaying the right pockets together (tulle and rayon challis) so that you wouldn’t have to snip into the right side tulle pocket seam as I did.

I would LOVE to make this pattern in a solid fabric.  I’ve seen some really cute Flint shorts that people have made with a contrasting waistband (to resemble a belt).  With fall and winter approaching, I’d also enjoy making a wool or rayon challis version of the full length pants. Let me know if you’ve made this pattern as well!

Rachel @oakbluedesigns

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