Linen Burnside Bibs
Posted in Projects on Saturday the 15th August 2020 by Vicki Ormerod
Hello there! I am very excited to share with you today about making the Burnside Bibs by Sew House Seven. This pattern has been on my wish list to sew for a long time.
I wore a pair of commercial overalls regularly as a teenager in the 90’s. I still have them and thought I’d share a photo for nostalgia’s sake.
When I saw this lovely pattern, I had in mind to make an updated pair of bibs for myself. I had linen in mind for this project and was blown away with this amazing linen from Minerva.
I’m not typically an over dramatic person, but when I received this fabric in the mail and saw it in person, I literally said out loud, “Wow!” It’s a lighter-medium weight linen, which is perfect for multi-season wear. The drape is lovely, the color is stunning and the texture of the white threads woven throughout the weft is my FAVORITE detail.
I have to share that there is a sew-along link for this pattern on Sew House Seven’s blog!! I love it when designers include extra details for their patterns via SAL’s:
There are multiple options included in this pattern that I thought I’d mention:
Scooped or straight front?
Cropped or full length pants?
Omit or include back pockets?
Version #1 features a slightly fitted back pant with back waist darts and an invisible side zipper opening.
Version #2 features a looser back, which omits the need for a closure.
Both versions feature ties that can loop around the front and gather the back waist. Both versions also feature a front waistband, curved front patch pockets, and cross-back strap. The legs are a stovepipe width.
3m Mint Green Georgio Linen Fabric
Matching Sewing Thread
Contrasting Sewing Machine Thread (I used navy)
80/12 sewing machine needle
Lightweight fusible woven interfacing
Invisible zipper foot
7-9” (17-22cm) Invisible Zipper
Muslin: If you’ve followed my previous posts you’ll be shocked to hear that I didn’t sew a muslin for this project. I share that jokingly, as I’m an avid muslin/toile sewer (and I know not everyone likes the process of making a test garment). I love Sew House Seven patterns. I’ve participated in multiple pattern tests for Sew House Seven’s patterns so I felt comfortable with estimating on the sizing without sewing a test garment first.
I made the following decisions for pattern options to make with this project:
Bib front: scooped neck
Back pockets: include
Version 1 with invisible zip and back darts
Full length pants
Size: I sewed a straight 8 for this project. I referenced the hip dimension to pick sizing.
I included the back pockets. Although this choice adds extra fabric and steps, I really love the modesty and functionality that pockets bring to add an extra layer of fabric on the back side.
ALWAYS buy more fabric then what the pattern calls for: I hear this tip but I don’t always follow it. I’m so glad I followed it this time. When I sew a project, I prefer to take my time. I don’t typically have 3+ hours to sit down and sew a project. I’m usually working in smaller chunks of time (10 mins here, 15 minutes there). It might take me a couple of weeks to finish a sewing project with this slower approach but I find that I make less mistakes when I think through the steps and sew a project more slowly.
For this project I had to work in a faster timeframe. I intentionally skipped the muslin (which is usually where I make a lot of my mistakes). I had final beach photos in mind for sharing this project so I had to quickly get this done before we left for vacation. I made two mistakes early on in the project; I didn’t cut the bib front on the fold and I didn’t sew the pockets mirrored. Thankfully, I had enough extra fabric to cut out the bib front and pocket a second time.
Keep sewing supplies for a project together: I’ve lost materials (between the start and end of a project) too often so this tip has become a habit for me. I like to keep pattern pieces together in a basket and any other supplies with them as well so they aren’t lost (thread, sewing machine needles, etc.).
Bib Ties: I used a hair tie as I was sewing from the zipper section on to help keep the ties out of the way from the sewing machine. The ties are very long. I was concerned I would accidently get the ties caught in seams if I didn’t keep them looped together.
Topstitching: I didn’t use a double needle or my coverstitch machine for this project. I sewed one seam at 1/8” (3mm) and a second seam at 1/4” (0.6cm).
Waist Facing: When basting the waist facing in place, I used a contrasting navy thread. I sewed this seam with the wrong side of the project facing. Then when I switched to the RS and using matching thread, I sewed the final seam. This helped me to both catch the edge of the facing while also following the seam that stayed visually above the first topstitch line. The photo below shows the navy basting line in between the first seam and the second top stitched seam (in matching thread).
Belt Loops: I decided to sew the ends of the belt loops in a chain stitch approach. I serged both ends of the belt loops, back to back. I repeated this process as I folded over the ends of the belt loops and sewed the ends flat on the standard machine, back to back. This helps save time and thread as well.
So this project was my FIRST TIME sewing an invisible zipper. I purchased an invisible zipper foot as I’ve heard this step highly recommended.
I decided not to color match the invisible zipper but instead use a grey zipper (for a tone within the same color family). The pattern calls for a 7-9” long zipper but I couldn’t find a grey invisible zipper at that length at my local fabric store. The length I found was 20-22”. I shortened the zipper by cutting the length and then hand tacking the new zipper stop.
I followed the suggested directions on the zipper packaging to shorten the zipper.
Being honest, my execution of the invisible zipper was not perfect. With my errors, the top of the zipper did not match up to the top of the garment, as intended (shown in the photo below).
To hide this a bit, I hand sewed a large hook and eye closure. I was excited to share these details as I wanted to offer encouragement to those that have also not sewn an invisible zipper. I find that a lot of sewing techniques become easier with practice. I am looking forward to continuing to make garments with invisible zippers in the near future. You also have the option of sewing Version 2 with this pattern. This version is less fitted, omitting the back darts and invisible zipper.
I love this project! It was so fun to make and even more fun to wear. The fabric is so drapey and comfortable. We took these photos at the beach when the weather was quite hot and humid. The fabric breathes very well and hid my legs from burning with the sun.
I decided for the size that I made, I didn’t like bringing the ties around to the front. I like that you have options with this pattern. I chose to leave them tied in the back.
The shirt that I’m wearing in the final photos is the Beatrix top in an Atelier Brunette, Double Gauze fabric, shared in this post.
I wish you well on your own summer sewing adventures. Let me know if you have made garments with this fabric. I’m quite in love with this finished project.
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