Mens Burda 7142 Loose Fitting Wool Coat
Posted in Projects on Saturday the 26th January 2019 by Vicki Ormerod
Hi, I’m Andrew from SewAndrew.com (& @sewandrew on Instagram!) and I’m here today on the blog to tell you about my new coat! The pattern is Burda Young 7142. I made view A - it’s a loose fitting coat, by the measurements it’s a bit too loose for me, so I made a size smaller than the pattern suggested. I also cut a full lining rather than the half lining the pattern comes with. They were the only changes I made.
I got this great Wool Fabric (a wool blend) which is a good weight by itself, but I decided to make it a bit warmer. I didn’t want to make it too heavy, so I went out on a bit of a limb… I got hold of some fusible wadding and decided to make a coat that looked like a normal wool coat on the outside but felt warm as a duvet to wear.
The wool fabric is soft to touch and warm. There is an interesting pattern to the weave which catches the light and gives a bit of interest to what is essentially a black coat. The outer came together moderately quickly - once I’d done a day of interfacing! - the raglan sleeves are great if you’re worried about setting-in sleeves as all the pieces are sewn flat, just a few gentle curves. As I had used such a spongy interfacing I kept the walking foot on for almost all of this make. In truth, I probably would have used it anyway. I topstitched the seams down as I went and basted the collar down in one piece. One word of warning, a lot of colour came off the fabric and my hands were filthy every time I worked on this project!
I discarded the lining pieces and drafted my own lining from the main pattern pieces. I used the front and back facings as a template, and shortened each piece accordingly. It went something like this…
Here’s a little tip… I cut the back lining piece on the fold of the fabric, without removing the seam allowance. This way I have a back pleat in the lining - I stitch it closed for a few cm’s at the top and bottom and give it a really good steam press.
For the lining I used a fabric that had been in my stash for a while. It was just £1.99 from Oxfam and I knew it would be perfect for something one day! I didn’t quite have enough, so lined the sleeves with a plain shiny black from my stash.
There was one more alteration I made - an unnecessary luxury - I added zips to the bottom of the side seams. My husband has a lovely Prada coat with side zips (he’s had it nearly 20 years…! He always says ‘... That coat owes me nothing…!’) for years we’ve called them ‘Side-Zips… For Striding’ … and so I wanted to add some to my B7142!
I wish I could say that the coat was finished. Sadly, it still needs buttonholes (& buttons!). I had originally considered trying my first bound-buttonholes, but gave that up as being too bulky. I suggested to a couple of friends that I would hand-sew the buttonholes, I even bought the threads for it. I was put off with ‘Isn’t that really hard though? They’d have to be perfect!’. So I am waiting for my local buttonhole shop to open after the weekend and I’ll get them done professionally. I’m so lucky to have this place nearby! I’m not letting that stop me wearing it though.
I’m so pleased with how it’s turned out: a smart silhouette that feels like a blanket! The texture on the fabric looks really luxurious - A black coat with a twist. Thanks for reading.
Georgina Filby said:
What a great coat, Andrew! The lining is fab! I'd never have the confidence to make a coat, but you have nailed it! · 27th Jan 2019 07:53pm
valerie leyland said:
Looks fantastic, you've done a great job. · 26th Jan 2019 04:24pm