Modal Jersey Man's T-Shirt
Posted in Projects on Thursday the 10th January 2019 by Vicki Ormerod
I'm always keen to encourage diversity in the sewing community and menswear is often seriously under promoted, so when I got the chance to use this Modal Jersey Fabric
I knew it was going to make something for my husband. It's available in 7 soft colours. It is a soft faced double jersey, with one side being slightly shiny. I'm not sure which is the right side so I used the one I felt my husband would prefer. I had 2 metres and made a short sleeved T shirt and a vest.
This fabric is 72% modal and 28% polyester. It only has a limited stretch of about 20% so you need to take that into account when choosing a pattern and the size to make.
Don't choose something with negative ease, for the vest I've worked with my husbands chest measurement and the T-shirt is slightly looser.
Modal isn't a fibre we find very often for home sewing, although it's quite common in ready to wear clothing and it's often blended with other fibres. Although it does feel like a synthetic fabric it has some commendable properties, being biodegradable, made from beech trees grown in sustainably managed forests and although it's chemically modified, many of the biproducts are recycled in the manufacturing process and others are used in the production of other products, including food sweeteners and glass!
To alter the pattern I added a yoke to the front, cutting across just below the armhole, remember to add seam allowances to both cut edges.
To make the front opening I added 6.5cm to the front edge of the yoke. 1.5cm from CF to the fold line, 3cm to make the facing and 2cm to fold underneath.
The fabric doesn't have enough stretch to use for the neck band, I used a striped rib to coordinate as it doesn't need to be exactly the same colour as the garment. You need a strip cut across the width of the fabric 8cm wide by the length of the neck minus about 20%. If the neck measures 40cm the band needs to be 32cm plus turning allowances on the short edges. There is a wide selection of Ribbing Fabric
to choose from.
As this is a knit fabric it's best to use a ballpoint needle, size 80. I used a straight stitch, length 2mm, although you can just overlock if you prefer. After stitching the shoulders it's time to add the neck band.
Fold the band in half bringing the long edges together, machine baste on your longest stitch.
Find the middle of the band and match to the centre back of the neck edge on the right side.
The fold of the band should be on the stitching line at the centre front, everywhere else match the cut edges together, stretching the band to fit. Pin at right angles to the edge. Machine baste on the stitching line.
At the front fold the facing over the top of the band, then fold the allowance back over the top.
Machine the neck edge from the centre front or overlock if you're happy to.....
If you've chosen to machine, overlock or use a zig zag stitch the edges together close to the machining. Trim next to the zig zag.
Turn the facings to the wrong side.
Top stitch through the fabric and the allowances.
Overlap the front opening so the centre fronts are exactly on top of each other. Machine baste across the lower edge.
Stitch the yokes to the front. I've top stitched through the fabric and allowances.
Add the sleeves and stitch the side seams.
For hems on knits I overlock the edge first and then use a twin needle, stitch length 2.8mm. Try to stitch on top of the overlocking as it helps to stop a ridge forming. Although the fabric doesn't roll I prefer a deep hem as it looks more professional.
I've used Plastic Snaps
on the front opening, these come in loads of colours and are so easy to use, but you do need Fixing Pliers
Up to now my husband has worn his vest to work out in and he really likes it. The fabric is warm and soft. My only concern is that it might catch easily and cause small pulls.
This is a really easy fabric to care for. Wash at 3OC, either air dry or on a cool tumble dryer setting and iron on a cool setting.
Modal is an absorbent fibre, it can absorb 50% more moisture than cotton! This makes it perfect for exercise wear. Just remember this is a 2 way stretch fabric with only a limited amount of stretch. It's not for legging or leotards. Great for vests and warm pyjamas without being very thick. One of the positives is that it doesn't go baggy.
Thanks for reading,