My sparkly Christmas jacket
Posted in Projects on Tuesday the 3rd December 2019 by Vicki Ormerod
This sequin fabric is amazing
, I fell in love with it as soon as I saw it. The chevron pattern is beautiful and the colours make it so special.
I sat and stared at the fabric for ages trying to picture what to make. My heart was telling me to make a 60’s style mini dress, but my head was screaming to make a jacket as a sequin dress would hardly get worn.
My head won as I have several Christmas nights out planned. I wouldn’t wear the same dress each time as that would get a little boring, where as with a jacket I can wear it with different outfits and sparkle on each of my nights out.
I decided to find a pattern with simple lines, something that is easy to construct, allowing me time to focus on sewing the sequin fabric with care and attention.
The Wiksten Haori was the obvious choice, I’ve made it several times before and I wear them all lots. The construction is super simple and the loose style makes it easy to fit.
Let me tell you a little bit about how I worked with the sequin fabric.
I cut it out as a single layer (not on the fold) as working on the fold would have made it too bulky.
I cut it out with an old pair of fabric scissors as the sequins don’t half dull those blades.
I ensured that the sequins were running in the same direction when cutting out (the sequin nap).
I removed all of the sequins from the seam allowance before sewing using small scissors. This took so long to do, like days to do, and there were sequins everywhere, but it was so worth it. The seams lay super flat and it was really easy to sew once they had been removed. I would definitely remove the sequins again even though it took so long and gave me wrist ache for about a week.
I wore safety glasses when cutting out and removing the sequins from the seam allowance as they don’t half fly at your eyes with some speed when your snipping them.
I used standard Gutterman polyester thread and a Janome blue tip needle.
I used the walking foot on my machine as this ensured that the fabric didn’t stretch out of shape as I sewed.
I used wonder clips to hold the pattern pieces together when sewing (rather than pins) as they held the fabric more securely.
The Wiksten Haori has amazing super deep pockets, and I love a deep pocket, but I decided to omit them as I didn’t want to impact the lovely chevron pattern on the front of the jacket.
I initially planned to make the collar out of the sequin fabric, but when I tried it out it didn’t look right. The collar folds over and this made the sequins stick out and ruined the look of the front of the jacket, so I decided to opt for a contrast collar.
I thought about a velvet or a silk Dupion collar, but when I tried them it didn’t work as the texture of the fabric were too contrasting and it took your eye away from the amazing sparkle. I decided on a gold striped damask which works well, I reduced the width of the collar by half so that it wasn’t a main feature and instead blended in.
I lined the jacket using a pink polyester taffeta that I had in my stash, this makes the jacket so smooth to wear.
One issue that I found after construction is that the hem wasn’t deep and heavy enough. The Wiksten has a very small hem as the pattern is designed to be reversible, but with a weighty fabric like this it resulted in there not being enough weight around the hem for the jacket to hang correctly, and it kept on flapping open, therefore I made a wider hem of about 5cm and it’s now perfect.
I absolutely love how this jacket turned out, as you can see from the photos it can be dressed up with mini dress Or maybe a plain top and mini skirt, but looks equally as striking with jeans and a plain white shirt.
I do have quite a bit of the fabric left over, maybe even enough to make the 60’s style dress, so watch this space for another make soon.
Thanks for reading and happy sewing.