Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit
Posted in Projects on Monday the 27th July 2020 by Vicki Ormerod
Over the past couple of years I've become obsessed with jumpsuits. They're the easiest possible thing to wear, and as a lazy person I welcome that enthusiastically. Do I need to match any separates together? Nope! Do I need specialist undergarments to stop my thighs from rubbing? Absolutely not! Have I waxed my legs? Who cares!
When I saw this Viscose Linen Fabric on the Minerva website, I pictured it as a jumpsuit immediately. What I was after was something to wear to a birthday dinner in Spain in July, where I would need to look decently fancy, be able to keep cool in the heat, and also eat a LOT of food while remaining as comfortable as possible. The Paper Theory Zadie jumpsuit seemed like the one. I've made the pattern a couple of times already so I have my adjustments down, and I also know how wonderfully non-restrictive it is without entirely obscuring the body shape.
I haven't worked with a lot of linen in my sewing lifetime, and I've never worked with or even seen viscose linen before. I wondered if the viscose would make the fabric more fluid and drapey, but in this case it doesn't - the fabric behaves exactly like regular linen, except perhaps a little less tendency to wrinkle. The Zadie jumpsuit works well in most medium weight fabric regardless of drape, but I'd definitely recommend picking a pattern that can take a bit of structure to use with this fabric.
If you've made a couple of things before, the Zadie is an extremely straightforward project. No fastenings, very little fitting, and I'm always here for a grown-on sleeve . The only fiddly part is making the bias binding, but in a fabric like this that presses easily, even that's not too bad. The sewing part was a solid afternoon's work for me.
My version is a size 16. My hips are actually closer to a 20 in Paper Theory's sizing, but the pattern has a huge amount of ease so even those of us with hips two sizes larger than our waists can get away with just cutting a straight size. In terms of alterations, I shortened the bodice very slightly and added about 4 inches to the length of the legs. The Zadie is supposed to be a cropped jumpsuit, but I prefer a full-length leg for both proportional reasons and also the aforementioned lack of need to wax. Warning: the fabric layout for this pattern is incredibly efficient, so if you want to make the jumpsuit full-length you'll probably need a bit more fabric!
This jumpsuit is an amazingly comfortable piece of clothing and it's on track to be one of my most worn items of the summer. Floral prints aren't generally my thing but I really like this one - it's still very summery but bold and graphic rather than pretty and delicate, so it's a nice contrast and fits in with my personal style much better. I think it's the perfect thing for dinners on warm summer evenings, and I intend to test this out as thoroughly as possible. For science!
Thanks for reading,
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