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Samba Crepe Wear Lemonade Fiona Dungarees

I’ve had so much fun trying out different Fabrics for Minerva Crafts, todays post is all about the Lady McElroy spearmint haze 4 way stretch crepe.
As soon as I saw this Fabric I envisaged something with 1970’s flair, the wear Lemonade Fiona dungarees were the perfect choice, I just love how retro they are.
I hadn’t made these dungarees before so didn’t want to cut straight into the beautiful fabric and instead decided to make a toile. 
Some time back I bought a large piece of denim from the remnant basket at Abakhans, it’s not great quality and has faults running through it, hence it being a toil fabric so set about making a practise run.
I was initially confused with the sizing on this pattern as I normally fit into the same size for bust, waist and hips, but on this pattern my waist and hips were 2 sizes apart, so I graded from the larger waist size down to the smaller hip size using my hip curve, this was very easy to do, but when I tried on the trousers they were very big at the waist, I had to take them in by 2cm on each side, so I decided to cut my pattern down to the same size as the hips and this fits perfectly on my second version.
The toile turned out lovely but I wasn’t happy with the fabric and the faults running through it, so I decided to dye it using Dylon washing machine dye and they turned out fab! You can hear more about the pattern here.
Now back to the amazing Lady McElroy Fabric, now that I knew the pattern was going to fit me I set about making my gorgeous 70’s style floral dungarees.
I pre-washed the fabric at 40 degrees and it washed really well, and this fabric just doesn’t really crease at all so I got straight to cutting it out.
Rather than pinning the pattern pieces to the fabric, I decided to trace around them using my Prym chalk wheel, as the fabric is white on the wrong side it made it super easy to see the chalk lines, and this also avoided the fabric from pulling out of shape from the pinning, not to mention the time that it saves not having to pin!
The fabric cut out just like a cotton, it doesn’t slip or stretch whilst you are cutting which is great.
It also sewed like a dream, I used a Janome blue tip needle and never had a single skipped stitch.
The only difficulty that I had was pressing and manipulating the fabric, this fabric simply doesn’t like to be pressed, it refuses to bend in the direction that you want it to.
To help with this, where I needed to press the fabric before Sewing eg when hemming or Sewing the waistband, I sewed a line of straight stitches where it needs to fold, this helped to ensure that I kept it even, and the stitches make it easier to “bend the fabric” along the fold line.
When making the patch pockets, I added a medium weight interfacing to ensure that they did not stretch out of shape whilst sewing them, this worked perfectly.
Even sewing the straps was easy, although I did find that pulling them right side out did result in the straps going a little bit “wavy”, but nothing a shot of steam couldn’t fix, I then used a hemline bib and brace set to add the fastening.
I am so pleased with how the dungarees turned out in this fabric, they look so retro and are also super comfy due to the stretch of the fabric, it drapes beautifully and doesn’t crease.
They can be dressed down with a t shirt and flats, but I’ve also worn them at the office with a smarter top and heels, so many people asked me where I got them from, don’t you just love it when you can answer with the old “oh I made them”.
I have also recorded a quick video review of the fabric, I think that this really helps to see exactly what the fabric is like, I’ve included a sneaky peek of the fabric pre cutting it out so that you can see the drape and stretch in it’s full glory.
Thanks so much for stopping by my post and I’d definitely like to see more 70’s style dungarees out there so do let me know if you decide to make a pair.

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