Sew Over It Heather Dress in Navy Blue Scuba Crepe
Posted in Projects on Sunday the 14th April 2019 by Vicki Ormerod
I’d been on the lookout for some fabric to make a Sew Over It Heather dress for a while but nothing had really caught my eye until I saw this John Kaldor Scuba Crepe Fabric.
I have used John Kaldor fabric before and been really pleased with the quality so I felt confident that I would be happy with this one. It didn’t disappoint, the fabric has a good weight to it and feels great against the skin.
I chose navy blue, which is unusual for me – I literally have nothing blue in my wardrobe except for jeans. Since I stopped dyeing my hair 2 years ago I have been wondering if I should change my colour palette and thought blue might go well with my new look!
I made the dress in the size 12, with the three-quarter length sleeve length option, and made no pattern adjustments other than take 4” off the hem length. It is a pretty straightforward sew - the pattern instructions are well written and easy to follow. The only tricky bit is the pocket – just follow the instructions unquestioningly and it will work out ok, trust me.
When it came to attaching the sleeves though, I didn’t follow the instructions. The instructions tell you to use a set-in sleeve method but I couldn’t see why you wouldn’t put them in flat. So that’s what I did. Before sewing up the side seams I attached the sleeves, then sewed the sides from the sleeve end to the hem. It hasn’t caused any issues so I would definitely do this again.
I used a zig-zag stitch for the hem. I’ve used the twin needle method in the past but have been getting too many popped stitches that I then need to repair so decided to give the zig-zag stitch a go. I’d avoided it in the past as I worried it would make the garment look homemade, but really I don’t think anyone will notice.
The final dress has a few issues. The neckband isn’t great; it sits up on one side. I think this is because it is too long. I did measure the neck opening, as per the instructions, but I have heard other sewists saying that you should then take 80% of that measurement. I have worn this dress to work but with a scarf to hide the neckband. Also, the dress is a little bit tight across the chest, if I make it again I think I’d need to trace a 14 at the bodice. Having said that, maybe a 14 all over would be best as there is also a problem with excess fabric at the lower back, maybe adding a bit more ease would help resolve this – what do you think?
Overall I am still really happy with this dress. It is a very comfortable dress, it has a flattering style, and I love the pockets. The problems are probably not visible to anyone other than myself and I will definitely get a lot a lot of wear out of it.
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