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Sew Over It Heather Dress in Navy Blue Scuba Crepe

I’d been on the lookout for some fabric to make a Sew Over It Heather dress for a while but nothing had really caught my eye until I saw this John Kaldor Scuba Crepe Fabric.

I have used John Kaldor fabric before and been really pleased with the quality so I felt confident that I would be happy with this one. It didn’t disappoint, the fabric has a good weight to it and feels great against the skin.

I chose navy blue, which is unusual for me – I literally have nothing blue in my wardrobe except for jeans. Since I stopped dyeing my hair 2 years ago I have been wondering if I should change my colour palette and thought blue might go well with my new look!

I made the dress in the size 12, with the three-quarter length sleeve length option, and made no pattern adjustments other than take 4” off the hem length. It is a pretty straightforward sew - the pattern instructions are well written and easy to follow. The only tricky bit is the pocket – just follow the instructions unquestioningly and it will work out ok, trust me.

When it came to attaching the sleeves though, I didn’t follow the instructions. The instructions tell you to use a set-in sleeve method but I couldn’t see why you wouldn’t put them in flat. So that’s what I did. Before sewing up the side seams I attached the sleeves, then sewed the sides from the sleeve end to the hem. It hasn’t caused any issues so I would definitely do this again.

I used a zig-zag stitch for the hem. I’ve used the twin needle method in the past but have been getting too many popped stitches that I then need to repair so decided to give the zig-zag stitch a go. I’d avoided it in the past as I worried it would make the garment look homemade, but really I don’t think anyone will notice.

The final dress has a few issues. The neckband isn’t great; it sits up on one side. I think this is because it is too long. I did measure the neck opening, as per the instructions, but I have heard other sewists saying that you should then take 80% of that measurement. I have worn this dress to work but with a scarf to hide the neckband. Also, the dress is a little bit tight across the chest, if I make it again I think I’d need to trace a 14 at the bodice. Having said that, maybe a 14 all over would be best as there is also a problem with excess fabric at the lower back, maybe adding a bit more ease would help resolve this – what do you think?

Overall I am still really happy with this dress. It is a very comfortable dress, it has a flattering style, and I love the pockets. The problems are probably not visible to anyone other than myself and I will definitely get a lot a lot of wear out of it.





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