Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers
Posted in Projects on Tuesday the 24th March 2020 by Vicki Ormerod
If there is one item of clothing that causes me stress, it is trousers. I find it impossible to find a pair that comes anywhere close to fitting in the shops and the couple of times I tried to make my own have produced very mixed results. I've longed to find a pattern that I can work with - a reasonable fit that needs a few tweaks (I'm a realist!) but not so many that I lose hope and throw it into the corner. I plucked up the courage to try another pattern when I saw this Linen Denim Fabric from Lady McElroy
. Having read a lot of good reviews, I chose the Ultimate Trousers by Sew Over It
. I've had a lot of success with their patterns and hoped for more of the same.
A quick toile told me that this pattern *might* just work. I graded from a 16 at the waist to 14 at the hips. To avoid the dreaded camel toe, I lowered the crotch seam by 0.5cm. Before looking at the back, I could feel the excess fabric floating around the tops of my thighs - enough to comfortably accommodate more than just my thighs. Not a great look! I pinched out a couple of centimetres on each side, starting at the top of the thigh and tapering to nothing about mid way down. I left enough ease so I could sit and climb stairs comfortably. This change transformed how I felt about the fit.
The linen denim is an interesting fabric. It's 65% cotton, 35% linen with a very slight textured surface. It creases with wear but not as much as pure linen does which is great for the areas prone to bagging such as the knees. It frays pretty badly so overlocking is probably the best option for finishing seams.
It looks chic while being super comfortable - the perfect incarnation of a smart/casual fabric that works for all occasions. The only negative I found, after a few wears, is that the waist creases the most and doesn't feel as stable as the rest of the make. I would add a heavier interfacing to the facing next time and consider adding some to the waist seam of the actual trousers.
Many others have written about the construction so I won't go into detail. As the pair features a side zip, rather than a fly front, they are incredibly quick and simple to make. I did swap the zip from an invisible to a lapped zip purely because I didn't have a suitable invisible one to hand. I'm very pleased with how neat the zip looks although it's a little difficult to view in the photos. I added a thin fly shield to the inside as the zip rubbed against my waist causing minor irritation.
It's not a lie to say that these are the best fitting trousers I've made to date. For my next pair, and there will be a next pair (and maybe some shorts), I will make a few more tweaks. I need to lower the crotch seam a little more as I can feel it tugging slightly as I walk. I also need to make a teeny sway back adjustment or enlarge the darts at the back. I may also taper the legs slightly below the knee. It feels great to finally have a pair of me made trousers that I actually want to pull out of the wardrobe.
Thanks for reading,