Sew Over It Ultimate Wrap Dress
Posted in Projects on Wednesday the 30th May 2018 by Vicki Ormerod
Hi, It’s Naomi from Naomi Sews, and I always love it when Minerva crafts ask me to try out some of their beautiful fabric! They always have the most amazing and inspiring fabrics, and this John Kaldor Jersey Fabric is no different. It has loads of drape which makes it perfect for flowing summer dresses, and it feels lovely and soft too.
I was slightly worried that the white background made it a little more transparent than I feel comfortable with though (especially as I’m hoping for lots of sunshine!), so I decided to underline the bodice and skirt of my dress with some lightweight white viscose jersey from my stash just to be on the safe side. To do this, you just cut an extra piece in your lining fabric, and hand baste the layers together before sewing them as one piece.
Before I get too much into the construction, I want to talk through the pattern which I used. This is a version of the Sew Over It Ultimate wrap dress, which I have made before a couple of times. However, I needed to make a few modifications to accommodate my baby bump and just generally changed figure. Sew Over It have produced a maternity hack set of instructions which you can request if you already own the pattern which talk you through the process of creating an empire line seam. I also raised the neckline, as on my previous versions I usually choose to wear a vest top underneath because the v-neckline does come quite low.
I didn’t follow the instructions exactly, because I’m hoping this dress is going to be a summer staple for me once baby arrives, allowing for nursing and my size changing some more. The pattern has a straight full-length sleeve- not the most summery. I thought that the fabric would be perfect unlined as little flutter sleeves, so when I traced the pattern I also set to slashing and spreading the sleeve. There are loads of tutorials online if you are interested in a more detailed set of instructions, but you can see here how my new pattern piece compares to the straight sleeve in the packet.
Construction-wise, this jersey behaved itself very well. I do sometimes struggle to find the best settings for lightweight jerseys, but this one sewed beautifully with no issues. To keep the light and airy feel of the sleeves, I used the rolled hem function on the overlocker, which is a very quick and effective way of neatening a curved edge.
I wasn’t quite sure what to do about the neckline facing and skirt hem. I just wasn’t sure that the facing was going to sit neatly. Fortunately, even though this fabric is predominantly polyester, it did take a careful pressing, and I was able to face and top stitch as in the usual instructions. I did pre-hem the underlining slightly shorter than the main fabric, as I wanted to keep it all as light as possible.
There is a good amount of stretch and recovery in this fabric due to the spandex content, so it conforms to the body at the wrap very nicely. I’m hoping the spandex content will be forgiving as my size continues to fluctuate over the next few months. So far, it’s looking good!
Thanks for reading,
Naomi @ Naomi Sews
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