The Border Fabric Jumpsuit
Posted in Projects on Thursday the 10th September 2020 by Vicki Ormerod
Hi there sewists, this is Wis from Ghent (Belgium) and I am thrilled to present you my first contribution for the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network.
When I got the list of the fabrics I could choose from, this intriguing Border Fabric immediately caught my eye. I just love border fabrics because they challenge me to play around with the print. Also, I knew immediately that a jumpsuit would be the perfect garment for this print as it is a rather big one. I even had the V9075 in mind because of the wide legs and I sewed it before so the pattern was already adjusted to my measurement. Unfortunately I somehow have misplaced the pattern and I couldn’t find it anywhere. So I had to search another jumpsuit pattern and I ended up with the Karin Jumpsuit from Knipmode.
The Karin Jumpsuit pattern
The Karin Jumpsuit has a faux wrap effect at the front bodice and wide legs with pleats. It closes at the back with two buttons and a blind zipper under a small vent. And it has pockets!! These are all design features I love.
As this is a pattern for woven fabric and my fabric is a knit fabric I carefully measured all the pattern pieces. The Knipmode patterns come without seam allowance so measuring them is a straightforward job. Based on my measurements I grade the pattern from a 48 for the bust to a 50 for the waist. Being 1m80 tall I lengthened the crotch with 2,5 cm as I want to be able to raise my arms without any discomfort. I also lengthened the legs with 3 cm.To make the legs wider I drew a straight line from the widest part of the hip to the hem and I did the same for the inseam line. This made the leg opening 88 cm wide.
The border fabric
This beautiful fabric is a viscose jersey knit fabric with a 4-way stretch. It’s a lightweight fabric, very soft, and it has a lot of drape. Excellent qualities to create a floaty garment but a little devilish to sew.?? The fabric behaved very well during the prewash. It came out without significant shrinking or distortions. Again proof of its high quality.
The sewing process
Sewing the Karin Jumpsuit is not really difficult or complex, Knipmode gives it a difficulty rate of 2,5 out of 4. I do think you have to take your time for it but you will get there when you follow the 25 instruction guide lines! Also, the nature of the fabric—a knit, a large print and very moveable—asks for meticulous handling and therefore time.
After cutting out the pattern pieces on a single layer I stay-stitched all the seams. To prevent the shoulder seams, the pocket lines, and the front and back necklines from stretching I secured them with stay tape. The neckband is reinforced with H410 fusible interfacing.
I tacked all the notches by hand and basted most of the seams by machine using a stitch length of 5. This helps for the print matching. Then I sewed the seams with the overlocker.
On my sewing machine I stitched with a walking foot and a stretch needle 75. For the hems of the sleeves and the legs I used a 3-step zigzag. And I put my Kelly and the machine label on the outside because I’m proud of what I sew.
One of the things that took some time and in hindsight isn’t necessary is the blind zipper. I experienced that I could get in and out of the jumpsuit without opening the zipper.
I am sew excited about this jumpsuit. For me this is the perfect pattern for this amazing fabric. Due to its floatiness it’s a dream to wear. Oh, and you have to jump if you have a jumpsuit!
Thanks for reading and keep on sewing!
Blanca Blak said:
This is such a beautiful jumpsuit and a brilliant use of the border print. I have never sewn with a border print so your info of single layer cutting and careful measurements really is useful for my sewing. Can??t wait to see what you make next. · 11th Jul 2019 07:43pm