The Most Glamorous Jumpsuit I Will Probably Ever Make
Posted in Projects on Wednesday the 5th December 2018 by Vicki Ormerod
You know that feeling when you instantly see a fabric and just know it's destiny? As soon as I saw this Velour Fabric on the Minerva crafts website I just knew. It looked glorious, and when it arrived I was even more in love. Any apprehensions about working with it were ignored while I sat and stroked it for what felt like forever. And I knew pattern wise it had to become the most glamorous jumpsuit I would probably ever make.
Let's talk about the fabric. It's a black stretch velvet knit fabric, with a glitzy gold foil pattern reminiscent of brocade type decoration. Its a medium weight, with good hold and lots of stretch, so perfect for patterns that require movement, such as close fitting dresses, trousers etc. It's hard to fully see just how beautifully gold the pattern is from the website (i've tried my best to capture it here!) but it is a wonderful contrast to the dark black of the velvet. When you see and touch it you instantly think luxury. It's a slightly higher price point, but well worth the price tag to make a one-off special piece, as the quality is just superb, and feels like it will last (usage considered, I tend to judge my garments by how much dancing I will get from them!), so perfect for occasions such as weddings, birthdays or anytime you just want to dazzle with a show-stopping outfit!
My go-to jumpsuit pattern for the moment is the Tilly and The Buttons Marigold - I love the deep slash pocket feature on the front of the trousers (as pockets are always essential when making your own clothes!) and the elasticated waist is great for accentuating your figure.
Its a comfortable fit, not to tight but with plenty of room for movement, and some shaping with darts and pleats on both trouser and bodice, as well as an invisible zip. As with all Tilly patterns the instructions are clear and concise with well thought out pictures, so technical wise it's easy to follow. The most difficult part I find is inserting the elastic through the waistband - making sure the gathers are even can be quite tricky!
That said, a confident beginner could take this on, and the fabric itself sews like a dream. It is a different weight than is suggested for this pattern, but I love a challenge, and wanted to see how a heavier fabric would affect the look of the jumpsuit. Because of the weight the fabric doesn't fray, so I was able to save time by using pinking shears to finish my seams, although because of it being a knit fabric you do need to use stretch needles on your sewing machine. I was quite apprehensive at first, as I haven't sewn with knit fabric before and using such a beautiful fabric for my first time seemed quite daunting, but I needn't have worried - it went through my sewing machine easily, and by using a zigzag stitch it meant the stitches would be flexible enough for this type of fabric.
I did attempt my topstitching with a gold thread, however my machine didn't seem to like this as much and it kept snagging and snapping, which was a shame as I think it would have looked amazing!
Pattern wise, I did make a slight adjustment to the bodice - instead of the sweetheart neckline I squared it off instead, as I prefer the look of a straight neckline. To do this I just carried on cutting a straight line on the pattern piece instead of the curve, and adjusted the facing shape as well.
When it came to the fit I did find the fabric was drapier than I thought it would be, and decided to put a dart in the back to bring in the bodice slightly (but luckily due to the pattern it isn't that noticeable!), however this did mean that this changed the position of where my back straps sat, so would do this on the back piece before attaching the straps next time, so I could reposition the straps accordingly.
I'm also thinking I will probably take in the trousers at the leg a bit, as they are quite loose and feel it would look better a little more fitted.
Other than those adjustments I think it is a success! It is the glamorous jumpsuit I was hoping it would be - the fabric weight is heavy enough to be warm in the upcoming colder weeks (I’m thinking ahead to seasonal parties!) with the right level of glam to be show-stopping yet functional (those pockets!) and will definitely sit in my wardrobe as a ‘little black dress’ type statement piece!
Thanks for reading,
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