The True Bias Roscoe Dress
Posted in Projects on Monday the 2nd March 2020 by Vicki Ormerod
I recently stumbled across the very cute (and very expensive for what they are) Smokks brand of dresses while searching for Liberty lawn fabrics--they have a Liberty lawn collection of these blousey, art-teacher smocks that look super comfortable and breezy for the sweltering summer heat of North Carolina while still covering up your shoulders and arms! I was inspired by their cute designs to make a similar dress using the True Bias Roscoe Dress Pattern. I'd never really considered the Roscoe since it is a more boho style than I usually go for, but by making a few simple edits I could make this pattern more similar to the Smokks dresses--and more my style!
One issue I had with the Roscoe blouse/dress pattern is the neckline slit finishing method. This is totally personal preference but I don't enjoy the finish as written for such a tight angle. Inspired by Smokks I decided that I would try something new instead and add a placket instead. I'm not the first person to do this but I'm surprised more haven't, since it adds a very cute detail. I used this tutorial from Melly Sews which was easy to follow and I think my placket turned out really well! It's not perfect, obviously, but I think it looks very cute. Although I lengthened the front opening, from that tutorial you can make your placket as long as you'd like. The button placket also means you don't need the neckline ties--you can just button your dress up, rather than tying the neckline closed. I think it adds a little bit of polish if you aren't going for that 100% boho look. On the other hand, I swapped out the nicely bound cuffs for some elastic, so I guess I decreased the polish there!
I also added pockets! I am not as wild about pockets as a lot of sewers seem to be but this dress is designed for practicality, so pockets were a must. These are just side seam pockets that are topstitched to the front of the dress. This way they aren't flopping around on the interior! Once again, I copied this method from the Smokks dress.
I was a bit worried about this ending up looking like pajamas, since my Fabric isn't as drapey as some of the recommended materials, like rayon challis. However, I think the cotton lawn ended up looking perfect, and it is super breezy and cool for summer. The print is beautiful!! The print quality of Lady McElroy fabric is really crisp and clear and the floral design is so delicate. I've been loving this light blush pink shade recently but it also comes in a pale blue.
I also really love the volume in this dress with the lovely gathered sleeves and added ruffle at the bottom, but in case I want to show the world that yes, I do in fact have a waist, I made a little self-fabric sash tie. It is easy enough to swap out with a nice belt, but I often enjoy having a matching belt--actually, I have quite a collection of these coordinating self-fabric waist ties for lots of various dresses in my closet!
Thanks for reading,
Allie @ Allie Jackson
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