Timeless Gingham Sundress
Posted in Projects on Sunday the 16th June 2019 by Vicki Ormerod
One of my main goals in sewing my own wardrobe is to create timeless garments with little nods to vintage style. Gingham is the perfect print for incorporating vintage inspiration into modern garments.
When I saw this yarn-dyed Gingham Chambray Fabric
, I knew I needed it in my wardrobe. I spent a long time indecisively rifling through my pattern stash before deciding on Vogue 9182
. Since I was going for that classic, timeless look, I swapped out the full circle skirt for the A-line panelled skirt from Vogue 9328. I’m so happy with the result! The midi A-line skirt combined with the scooped button front give the dress a very vintage vibe without pigeonholing it into one specific decade or style.
A Perfect Match
The gingham chambray was spot on for this project. The cotton has the right weight and malleability for the fitted princess seams. It also has a good ratio of structure and drape, which both holds the A-line of the skirt while maintaining some swish.
Because the fabric is yarn-dyed rather than printed, the color saturation is really great. (I’ve got to get my hands on some more colors!) It also means the design runs on both sides, so I’d recommend marking the inside and outside.
Like many classic ginghams, this fabric tends to crinkle a bit like a seersucker. I love this effect on the finished garment, just be sure to give the fabric a good press before cutting and sewing. It was really easy to sew with, and the print and texture are so nice! Plus it’s available in 11 colours!
The Stitchy Details
Overall, this dress was a really simple sew but since my dress was a mash up of two patterns, I did have to make some modifications. Before cutting into my fabric, I altered the skirt panels to match up with the princess seams. This was really easy to do and took me about an hour. I traced the skirt panels and then added or removed width from the sides so that they measured the same as the bodice pieces at the waistline seam allowance. I also drafted a simple facing piece for button placket on the skirt.
I ran into a little trouble when I took in the straps at the shoulder seams. They’re a little thin and sewn from the inside of the lining. While the straps are the proper length, they still slide down a bit due to the low scoop at the back and front of the dress. If I were to make it again, I’d either build up the back or sew a little spaghetti strap tie at the the base of the neck to better keep everything in place.
Lastly, I altered the button spacing because I used 15mm buttons instead of 22mm buttons. I used my Simflex Spacing Tool
which made it really easy. Only after I’d made and cut my buttonholes did I realize that I made the holes on the wrong side! I feel so silly! It’s totally wearable but I have to really think about buttoning when I put it on. I also added four snaps between the bodice buttons to ward off any gaping.
I love how this dress turned out. I especially like how it’s not too fitted, but still nips in at the waist. Perfect for warmer weather! I’m so excited to wear it all summer long! I just need my big straw hat, some lipstick and a tasty cocktail!
The Make Breakdown
Pattern: Bodice V9182 + Skirt V9328
Fabric and Notions: 2.75 Meters Black Gingham Chambray, 12 fifteen millimeter buttons
Difficulty: Advanced Beginner
Duration: A weekend, if you’re slow like me!
Design Modifications: Blended two patterns, graded skirt seams so panels match princess seams, changed button size and spacing.
Fit Alterations: Removed 3 centimeters at top of side seam, removed 3 centimeters from shoulder seam.
Future Plans: Yes! Next time, I’ll address the sliding straps issue and put the buttons on the correct side!
Thanks for reading and happy sewing!