Twinning in Fall Jackets
Posted in Projects on Tuesday the 14th January 2020 by Vicki Ormerod
Hi Minerva Makers!
Today I am sharing a Mommy and Mini Me make with the amazing Lady McElroy Loop Back Sweatshirt Fabric in the beautiful, rich Claret color. This sweatshirt fabric is warm and soft inside and sews up like a French terry knit but is a slightly thicker weight. My inspiration for this make came from the Moto style leather jackets that pair with skinny jeans and boots. I wanted that look but I wanted to use a softer and more comfortable fabric like this sweatshirt knit.
For my pattern I used the Hey June Handmade Evergreen jacket pattern which I cropped and added a zipper detail to the sleeves and for the pint-sized version I used the Hey June Handmade Conifer Jacket. The two patterns are very much the same however the women’s version has an added waistband which I omitted to achieve a cropped look.
Here’s how I adjusted my pattern to make it a cropped Evergreen Jacket:
First, I needed to add or remove length from jacket body pattern pieces so the jacket would fall at the top of my hip bone and also have a ½ inch seam allowance for the hem. In order to figure out how much length to add, I simply taped the Front Yoke and Front pattern pieces together, overlapping by 3/8 inch for the seam allowance, and held the front piece at the top of my shoulder. I liked the length but needed to add some length for the hem. I added ½ inch at the “lengthen/shorten” line rather than adding it to the bottom to ensure I kept the shape of the jacket. Length was added to the following pattern pieces: Front, Center Back, Outer Back, Facing, and Front Flap.
Next I added 2½ inches of length to the Sleeve Front and Sleeve Back pieces. I omitted the sleeve wristband and decided to add a zipper to the back sleeve seam for a sleek looking sleeve.
Now that my pattern pieces are all ready, I need to complete one last preparatory step, I need to measure the length of the angled edge of the Front Flap piece to get the right length separating zipper. It is possible to remove teeth from a zipper and replace the stop, but if the front flap is a standard length for a zipper, then it is much easier to purchase the correct length from the beginning. My Front Flap piece measured 18 inches so I was able to get an 18-inch-long zipper to fit perfectly for my jacket.
My next adjustment was adding the zipper to the sleeve seam. I essentially copied the Zipper Shield pattern piece and the instructions for the Conifer girl’s jacket on the women’s version. Below is a picture of the sleeve-zipper-zipper shield sandwich just before edge stitching the zipper in place from the front side of the sleeve.
To add one last personal touch to the jackets, I quilted the back yoke and the front yokes of both jackets which adds a textural element to the fabric.
My daughter absolutely loves her jacket and loves how soft and warm it is inside. This Lady McElroy fabric is a dream to sew with and super versatile, it can be used for cozy loungewear and hoodies or it can be used for a more structured look like the Moto style Evergreen and Conifer jackets. We will both be wearing these jackets non-stop during the cooler months because they combine the cozy warmth of a sweatshirt with an edgy, polished look of a Moto Jacket.
Happy Sewing Friends!
X O Heather @heatherelyse_handmade
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