Zamora Viscose Bliss
Posted in Projects on Thursday the 30th January 2020 by Vicki Ormerod
I sewed the last button on to my Itch to Stitch Zamora blouse this evening and could not wait to try it on. From the moment I opened my package from Minerva and saw the deep red Viscose Twill Fabric
, I knew I had to make something stunning to do it justice. The black printed pattern on the fabric is very subtle and elegant. The feel of the fabric is soft, drapy but has a warmth to it which makes it ideal for autumn / winter. Originally I wanted to make a gathered skirt with a button up front but the fabric wasn’t quite wide enough so I found the Zamora blouse pattern.
The Zamora blouse pattern has several key features that appeal to me. The staggered pin tucks, the gently gathered sleeves with a narrow band at the wrist. Perfectly formed shaping to show off the figure and of course the various bust sizes Kennis from Itch to Stitch offers in her patterns.
At first the pattern looks a little tricky because of the markings for the pin tucks. You do need to cut out the front pattern piece extremely carefully, making sure to be very accurate on each tiny angle and shape. If you do that well, the rest comes together very easily as each piece fits in perfectly. The rest of the top is very straight forward, with darts and then simply joining the shoulders, side seams and insetting the sleeves the traditional way for woven garments.
I thought that French seams would be perfect for this fabric and pattern. They would have been if I had made the seam allowance larger than 3/8. The fabric does have a tendency to fray quite quickly while you’re working with it so I would suggest using some anti fray spray or liquid and to make the seam allowance 5/8 if you want to use French seams. Alternatively, if you want to keep the 3/8 seam allowance then either overlocking the edges or doing Hong Kong seams are probably the best options. My overlocker does not handle light weight fabric very well and tends to scrunch it up while sewing so I avoid any light weight fabric on it.
In order to get the finish I wanted and allow the fabric to drape naturally, I hand finished the sleeve cuffs and the neck tie. I really enjoy hand sewing and especially when it adds so much to the finish of the garment, as it does in this case. In the instructions you can top stitch the cuffs and the neck tie but I felt it would look too harsh on the overall blouse. The only place I topstitched was the front placket.
I used my Janome My Excel sewing machine for this project with the standard (A) machine foot and the button hole foot. I used one 100m reel of Gutermann Thread which was just enough.
The fit is excellent on me. I am probably a size 18 in Itch to Stitch sizing but as I am losing weight still very consistently, I decided to go down to a size 16. It fits but is a little snug. I am fine with this as I anticipate losing a few kilos over the next couple of moths.
I really am so delighted with this make and will make another Zamora blouse very soon. If this fabric came in other colours such as olive green, blues, pinks or even mustard, I’d be buying them and mixing and matching in different projects.
Until next time,