70’s Vibe Joan Trousers
Posted on Monday the 15th July 2019 by Lucky Sew and Sew
I’ve had my eye on the Joan Trousers Pattern by Friday Pattern Co ever since they released it. Im really digging that 70’s vibe and did I mention that they’re secret pyjamas?! You read that right my friends, they have the look and aesthetic of a high waisted, fitted trouser, but they’re made from stretch fabrics! They have a high waist, wide legs, a faux button, and even belt loops! They suggest going for a medium to heavy weight knit, such as ponte. Basically, a stretch fabric that has enough body to be comfortable enough to wear as trousers. Not too thin and flimsy.
I wanted to enhance the cool vintage feel of these trousers and so I wanted a nice earthy toned fabric. I don’t tend to go for colours on the brown scale too often. Well, pretty much never to be honest. I’m not sure why, but it is not a colour that ever really calls to me. But when I saw the Cognac colour way of this lovely Ponte Jersey Fabric, I knew that was the one. When it arrived I was impressed by the handle and feel of the fabric. It’s nice and sturdy, with a lovely soft feel and great stretch and recovery - exactly what I needed for this pattern.
When deciding which size to cut for the Joan trouser pattern, I deliberated for a while. My waist and hips fell into different size brackets as they usually do. I had a look at the finished garment measurements and saw that the larger sizes had quite a bit of negative ease built in. I wasn’t so sure about that and how having a few inches of stretch around my hips and tummy would look. So I decided to go for an XL waist and grade out to halfway between the XL at the waist and XXL at the hips. (My measurements are 33” waist and 45-46” hips for reference).
I loved that there aren’t too many pattern pieces, and so cutting the project out was quick and straightforward. The pocket facings are the same fabric as the trousers, and as it’s quite a thick fabric I was interested to see how the seams all sit once worn. Sewing with this fabric is a pleasure. It has enough weight and body to not slip all over the place, and it doesn’t stretch out easily either, so I think it would make a great fabric for those who haven’t had much experience with knit and jersey fabrics previously.
I sewed the trousers from start to finish in about 2 hours, which makes them a great speedy project. I used my overlocker for the majority of the seams as when working with stretch fabrics, it’s important to use a stitch that still allows the fabric to stretch, and an overlock stitch is perfect for this.
Everything came together really quickly and without any hiccups which was enjoyable. The fabric took a hot iron well too so the seams remained nice and neat. I took about an inch off the leg length before I hemmed, but I’m relatively short so that’s usual for me. To finish off the trousers, I didn’t have a big button that worked well with the colour of the fabric, and so I opted instead for 2 smaller buttons and I think they look really cute.
I must admit I was a little underwhelmed when I tried the trousers on. I struggled to get them up my thighs at first, which I’m guessing is because I graded a smaller size at the waist, however they did go on with a little wiggle. They aren’t sitting at my natural waist either, which I think is what’s putting me off a little. They’re sitting about an inch lower than I feel I need them to be to be perfect, and if I do try and hoik them up, I get terrible camel toe which as we all know is not desirable! Maybe next time I need to raise the rise to compensate. The pockets are also pulling a bit to the sides, and this is something I had worried about when I saw the negative ease. It’s not terrible, but it just makes me feel a little conscious of my tummy area. They are super comfortable though, and I do like them with the crop top that I’m wearing here. I think I’ll make another pair, and make a few fit adjustments and they’ll be great. In the mean time, I’m going to get my hands on some more of this ponte fabric, it’s amazing to work with and so comfortable to wear!