Hi everyone it's Kathy here from Sew Dainty. This time I have been busy sewing Butterick 5926, which is a lovely fitted unlined jacket designed for knit fabrics. Some of you might recognise this as it was the free pattern in an issue of Love Sewing magazine a few months ago, but if it is not already in your pattern collection then the good news is that at the moment Butterick sewing patterns are on sale at Minerva with 40% off!
A jacket like this is a really simple way to smarten up a pair of jeans and t-shirt - a combination that most of us wear - and will be really useful as Spring approaches, during cooler days in Summer, and throughout Autumn.
My fabric choice is this wonderful heavy weight black and grey striped Double Jersey Knit Fabric. It has a small amount of stretch to it, but really is quite stable making it very easy to sew with.
As always before making a pattern for the first time, I searched the internet for any reviews. Often these can highlight any fit issues with a pattern or other problems to look out for. I noticed that several reviews had mentioned that the instructions for attaching the collar and collar facings were confusing, and that they had taken to attaching the collar using other methods. I must admit this made me slightly concerned that I would get stuck, but in order to give the pattern a thorough testing I still went ahead and used the instructions for the collar attachment that Butterick provide. I honestly had no problems with how it was written. The only tiny thing that I did differently was to attach the collar and facings when I had only sewn the shoulder seams (the pattern tells you to sew the side seams too but I felt that it would be easier attaching the collar whilst the garment lay flat, so sewed up my side seams after the collar had been attached).
It is crucial to be super accurate when cutting out and transferring your pattern markings. There are lots of pattern markings to transfer that are essential for the collar to fit nicely. To make sure I didn't get confused between the large dot, small dot and triangle pattern markings I used tailor's tacks in different coloured threads. This also ensured the position of the markings were 100% accurate. Darts and notches were marked with tailors chalk.
The collar and facings went in nicely, and trimming and clipping is essential to help it lay as flat as possible. As this fabric is quite heavy, there is still a certain amount of body in the collar, but nothing too terrible. A good press and you're set. I do feel that a little bit of sewing experience will help you through this particular step, so wouldn't necessarily agree with the Butterick 'easy' rating that it has given this pattern. It's probably not a pattern that you would enjoy making if you were a complete beginner, but absolutely one to move on to when you have a few garments 'under your belt'.
The shaping in this jacket was something that I wasn't expecting, but it certainly creates a feminine shape which fits nicely.  Apart from the bust darts, darts can also be found in the back of each sleeve and either side of the centre  back at the neck seam. I did initially wonder why the back piece couldn't be just cut on the fold , but of course this too is shaped to give a great fit so needs to be cut in two pieces. My stripe matching is clearly better at the bottom of the jacket than the top, but after unpicking it once already, despite using a walking foot, I'm prepared to live with it like this!
Something else that I noticed mentioned on pattern reviews for this jacket was that the placement of the pockets are too far in towards the side seams. I definitely agree with this too and moved each pocket 3cm out towards the front edge of the jacket. This feels much better. More stripe matching again here, and my eyes were going fuzzy with all those stripes! The pockets are fairly small by the way, and not very deep. 
Also can we just take a moment to admire these stunning bronze Military Buttons, I love the crest detail on them and they are certainly more special than just adding a plain black or grey button aren't they?
As is often the case, there are a few different options on this pattern. I made the shorter length jacket with 3/4 length sleeves (although they are pretty much wrist length on my short arms)! There is also the option to add a bias trim to the jacket and collar edge to make it super snazzy too.
All in all it's a great little pattern, and I'm very happy with how it has turned out.
Thank you to Minerva Crafts for the lovely supplies that they have provided for this project, and I'l catch up with you again next month, when I'll be talking about sweatshirts.
Take care,
Kathy x