A Gingham Burda 6401 With Added Embroidery
Posted on Monday the 6th August 2018 by Sew Dainty
I first noticed this Dress Pattern
earlier on in the Spring when Burda released some new patterns, and immediately loved Version A which is the gingham checked version worn by the model on the right (pictured below). I really loved the sample shown, and knew that Minerva Crafts would have the perfect fabric to make up my own version. It didn't take long to decide that the 1" Check Corded Gingham Fabric
was the one that I wanted - the tricky part is choosing which colour! Although tempted by the yellow and the red colour choices which would make amazing Summer dresses, I opted for the navy blue, it's so lovely. You might like to know that it is only £3.99 per metre too - how amazing!
I hadn't sewn up a Burda pattern for quite a while, so couldn't remember what their sizing was like. Often the big pattern companies incorporate a large amount of ease into their patterns, so I chose to make up a toile in some old fabric from my stash so that I could get a feel for any alterations that I might need before I cut into the gingham. This turned out to be a good idea, as I found the sizing needed to be altered quite a bit for me. The Burda body measurements are shown on the tissue pattern pieces and I came up as somewhere between their size 14 and 16. I decided to take a chance that these might come up big and chose to sew my toile in a straight size 12. Even so, this needed alterations and in the end my final dress was cut in a size 10 bodice grading down to a size 8 at the 'waist' seam. I used size 10 sleeves and made the sleeve band up as a size 8, as this seemed also seemed to come up large.
Phew! Quite a few changes were necessary for me, but so glad that I made up a test dress first! To be fair, this dress is described by Burda as loose fitting, I just preferred it to be more fitted.
Although quite a simple dress, (it's been given a 'super easy' rating by Burda), it has lots of cute features to take it one step up from basic. The neck band is neatened with a lovely narrow bias strip of fabric and I always think this looks neat and professional on the inside. It's sometimes difficult to decide what colour thread to use when you fabric is made up from several different colours, and this fabric could take a white or blue thread. As the shades of blue are more predominant than the white, I think a navy blue thread was the right choice.
I love the style of the sleeves. They are elbow length and gathered into a cuff, and are just so pretty. For fun I decided to add a decorative embroidery machine stitch on the cuff band, this was so much fun to do, and makes it just a bit different. To tie in with the gingham design I chose a geometric patterned stitch and am really pleased with the outcome.
This clearly wasn't enough and I carried through this embroidery theme to the hem of the dress. I only needed to turn up a tiny hem (to keep it knee length on me), so simply overlocked the raw edge and turned it up by about 1cm and used the embroidery stitch as the hem stitch. So cute and I feel I want to hem all my skirts like this now! By the way I am 5'2".
From the outset I knew that it wasn't going to be possible to achieve perfect pattern matching. The dress bodice of course is shaped in a way that it would be impossible to simply cut it in a straight line, following the checked lines in the fabric, but I'm not going to worry about this too much! For the side seams I have concentrated on lining up the horizontal stripes only, so as not to give me a headache, and these worked out great.
A little alteration I did make was to use an invisible zip, which I prefer to a regular zip, and this runs down the centre back of the dress. Once again, the pattern matching was going to need attention and I must admit was slightly off here. I don't know what I was thinking - I think I was so busy inserting the zip and matching up the horizontal waist seams, that I forgot to check my pattern matching. Oh well, it's not completely terrible and I love the dress so much, I'm just not going to worry about that too much either. There are more important things right?
I'm so chuffed with the finished dress, you can't beat a gingham dress in the sunshine, and is just perfect for enjoying this gorgeous weather that we are being treated to at the moment.
Once again, I would like to extend a huge thanks to the team at Minerva Crafts for these beautiful supplies, and allowing me to create my perfect Summer dress. I look forward to seeing you all here again at the beginning of next month with another Minerva make, and in the meantime you can follow all my sewing adventures over at www.sewdainty.co.uk
Take care, and happy sewing,