A New Silhouette
Posted on Friday the 20th October 2017 by Lady Sewalot
Hello all! The fabric for my latest Minerva make has had many incarnations in my head, and you get to see the version that made it all the way to the finish line. I've been working on my princess seam bodice block and combining it with a pencil skirt to make a dress pattern. The original next step was to swing out the skirt pieces to make a full skirt for this dress, but I was curious to try out this new silhouette to me so I left the new dress blocks as they were.
I added seam allowance to the centre front of my pattern and cut 2 instead of cutting on the fold to make room for the button placket down the centre front. The centre back piece was cut on the fold and the rest as normal. The fabric (a Viscose Challis Fabric) does crease as soon as you look at it but submits beautifully under the iron. It's quite slippery to cut so a Rotary Cutter would be handy here to minimize disturbance, or alternatively cutting with tissue paper underneath or stiffening it with a gelatin bath beforehand.
The problems truly began when I tried the dress on. I assumed that I had added seam allowance to the pattern, which I quickly realised was false when the dress did not meet around the vital bust and crotch points. Lesson learned to always label pattern pieces! I crossed my fingers and re-sewed all of the seam allowances teeny tiny and hurrah it just about fit with an added buttonstand down the centre front. I am pretty pleased with the fit now though. It skims the body nicely.
One strap was turned on the way to uni and the other was turned by a loop turner when I got to uni. The top is finished with bias binding and so are all of the inner seams as I don't have my over locker with me. The hem is turned up twice and topstitched.
Overall I haven't quite decided how I feel about this dress. It feels pretty young on me, but maybe that will change depending on how I style it. The fabric is so light and the fairly free fit mean that it's going to be a fantastic dress for hot hot weather so I look forward to wearing it then. Until that time comes I might be super hip and try layering a long sleeved t-shirt under it.
Thanks very much for reading, to Minerva Crafts for providing the materials for this project and to Grace for taking the pictures!