An Evening Teal
Posted on Thursday the 6th June 2019 by How Good Is That
Would you believe this jacket is part of my teal wardrobe capsule?
I had really grand ideas of making a French jacket with lots of trimmings and a zipper.
Uhm, I edited these ideas back for a couple of reasons.
Last month I learnt a lesson about using woven trims on a base fabric with stretch.
My idea about adding the velvet trim was quietly removed from this month’s plan too.
The best option I came up with was to add the velvet trim at the seam line on the inside of this jacket, where the facing meets the teal lining.
I love adding cute trims on the inside of jacket so once I finished this jacket I was full of joy seeing this trim inside the jacket. These work well together.
The other idea that got put aside for another project was adding a zipper front closure.
When the Fabric arrived I was in awe of the sparkles and boucle within this knit fabric. Years ago I made a gold dress using a lace fabric with sequins stitched into the fabric. While making the dress I found that if I pulled the invisible thread, the small sequins in the fabric would fall like snowflakes in Winter.
This boucle fabric also has small sequins threaded into the base fabric with an invisible thread. I learnt last time to work with the fabric and not against it.
The reason to not use the zipper was not because sewing it in would have been difficult. I decided to not use the zipper because I didn’t want the zipper teeth to catch on the fabric and cause an amazing snowfall of silver mini sequins in my sewing room.
I do love a good jacket with zippers!
My alternative solution was to hand sew Prym Fur Hooks and Eyes that are traditionally developed for hook closures on fur pieces. There’s no real need to wear fur where I live but I’ve been waiting for the right project to use these large hooks ‘one day’ in the future.
The metal wires used in these hooks are totally covered. This means they blend into the fabric really nicely.
When I hand sewed these hooks onto the fabric, they were easy to hold and sew on. You can sew into the fabric covering of these hooks and make them more secure.
I’ve been working with Butterick 6062 since I made a couple of these for the Day and Night Dress Challenge that Elizabeth Farr ran earlier this year.
The bulkiness of this fabric made me rethink the sizing I should use. I decided to use size 16 at the hips but blend up through the waist to the bust in a size 12.
The sleeves were fine in the earlier versions I made, so I left them as is.
This time I followed the instructions. In the earlier 2 versions I did my own thing. Somehow I missed the pocket that was in the pattern so I made a much bigger pocket.
When I began to work on this version, low and behold, the pocket piece I thought went missing appeared. It must have been folded in one of the pattern pieces. I was so happy this pocket piece was there all along.
I’ve lined the pockets with a dark silk organza. Pockets made to sit against the pockets need lots of reinforcement. I chose this organza as a way of keeping this pocket in shape, without needing to add iron-on interfacing.
I used the same silk organza to line the front facings as well. Organza is light and breathes well so it was a logical choice that has paid off.
Lastly, the instructions walk you through hand sewing the sleeve lining to the jacket lining. I had avoided doing this on the first 2 jackets but I hand stitched the sleeve linings this time around.
I’ll hand stitch the sleeve linings in again when I make more versions of this jacket. The shoulder line sits well and I only needed to sew the sleeves in once.
What I look forward to now is when it starts to get cold and I can grab this jacket to wear out in the evenings. The sequins will look great at night and I’ll feel cozy and snug in it without it looking casual.
Let’s call this a win-win fabric and jacket combo.