Black Linen Nehalem Pants
Posted on Tuesday the 8th September 2020 by Saturday Night Stitch
This post starts with a pair of Sewhouse7 Nehalem Pants that I have made for myself and my husband. Then my sister came to visit and she took advantage of her birthday to ask for a pair. They are a very wide pant that is meant to be folded and tied with a tall waistband that starts at the hip and folds down over the waist tie while the crotch hangs low. The fact that you can fold over the waist means that you can wear them as tight or as loose as you want – think housecoat style but much more stylish!
The Nehalem has a back vertical seam with a little shape, also some shaping in the crotch. They have patch pockets on the sides. Despite the pattern imagery using women, these Nehalem pants can also be worn by men. After I made my first one, my husband started wearing it too. I have since sewn him a pair so that mine could be free for me! Now let’s talk stonewashed linen fabric because I love this fabric.
Stonewash Linen Fabric
The stonewash linen fabric has a surface that shows a more defined worn texture. It’s a gorgeous fabric because of the texture. It has a slightly worn vintage feel to it. This is the key distinction with normal linen since it is stonewashed.
So exactly what is stonewashing? To accelerate the garment wash effect and to give this linen fabric a more unique appearance, actual stones are used in the manufacturing process. Hence – stone washing. Fabric is washed together with natural and man-made stones, such as pumice or volcanic rock to produce a worn-out appearance on newly manufactured cloth. Fascinating!
I prewashed the linen in a 30-degree cycle and tumble dried on high heat. The colour intensity decreased somewhat. It was just a little bit less intense –but not enough to change the colour. There are 20 colours available in this stonewash linen. So far I had used the black and the red and the colours have been gorgeous.
Sewing Construction Details
The Nehalem pattern comes with 2 variations – a skirt and pants. For this sewing project, I added 2” to the waistband as I wanted it to be an exaggerated shape. I lengthened the hem by 10” for my taller sister to create the wide leg trouser look. The weight of the stonewash linen was a perfect complement to the drape of the trousers.
One of my favourite aspects of this pattern is those deep patch pockets. They get topstitched on before putting the pieces together. Stonewashed linen takes a stitch beautifully and as a result sewing the pockets on is one of my fave parts of the process. As is topstitching down the seams – an optional step that you can skip if you wanted to keep clean design lines.
The instructions are clear. The pictures are that illustrate the steps that leave no room for confusion. Some of the pattern pieces are similar so keep your tailors chalk nearby to mark which is the left and right side. I am fairly certain I mixed them up a couple of times but the reversible nature of the linen means I got away with it. Also another fantastic pro about this stonewash linen fabric!
My sister loves her pants and they have been traveling with her since she happily got them. Very comfortable and practical on account of those deep - deep pockets and the soft feel of stonewashed linen.
This probably isn’t a style for everyone but if you like something a bit different that will surprise you by how much wear you get out of it then do give this a go. It is an underrated gem of a pattern. I can help but think that this stonewash linen would be perfect for a wrap skirt too!