Posted on Saturday the 24th June 2017 by Male Devon Sewing
I will confess I don’t really enjoy making trousers. I don’t know why but they just don’t rank well in my ‘I must make this’ list. I think it is because mens trousers are, in general, pretty boring and the limited range of patterns leaves me uninspired.
So what better than to make a pair of more ‘interesting’ trousers for my next #MCBN make? By interesting I mean ones that have a few design details that will allow me to experiment: The Burda 6603 work-style Sewing Pattern seemed to fit the bill.
Now if you have not made a pair of mens trousers, especially from Burda, be warned:
The sizing of trousers is a little different than how we buy ready-to-wear trousers. This pattern is sized 36-48, which is based on the CHEST measurement not waist size! Confusing or what?
It would be nice to see the waist measurement on the front/back of the pattern packet as this information can only be found by opening the pattern up where it is printed on the tissue. From there you choose the SEAT size (similar to hip) and this translates to the ‘Chest’ size to cut. So for me this was a size 40.
To be careful it is worth measuring the waistband pattern piece (less seam allowance) and compare to your actual waist size.
So on to the pattern: A straight-legged trouser in two versions. Both have slant hip pockets (with faux flap), side ‘tool’ tabs and both version omit rear pockets. One version has zipper cargo pockets and the other has flapped pouch pockets. Version B also has zip-off lower legs.
I opted for version A but knew from the start that I would mix and match pockets from both versions along with adding rear pockets (rear pockets are a must in my opinion!). I also knew that I would ditch the buttons and use press-studs for a more ‘industrial’ look.
The Fabric chosen is a really nice heavy weight cotton drill, with camouflage print. There are 4 different camouflage prints available but I went for the more traditional desert print. I would recommend pre-washing before making up as there is a little shrinkage. It also makes the fabric easier to work with and less stiff. The fabric is a dream to cut and press but because of the heavier weight choose a suitable jeans needle for your machine. The pattern calls for plenty of topstitching so using a topstitching needle makes life easier.
The front hip pockets were nice and simple to construct (I used a plain cotton for the pocket bags). A faux flap is placed in front of the openings for detail.
Each leg section is sewn together at the side seam before the large side pockets are attached. I opted to flat fell this seam, which worked well and adds to the overall feel.
Now I could concentrate on the pockets and of course would do what I always do. I chose to put a zip pocket on the left leg (View A) and flapped patch pocket on the right (View B). The zip pocket has two zips (one horizontal and one vertical) and cleverly each open into a separate pocket space.
I used nice brass coloured zips, which compliment the pattern colour. The pockets have a lot of topstitching which looks really nice. Above the side pockets are two ‘tool’ tabs. Not sure I will ever use them but they do add to the overall look.
I mentioned the lack of rear pockets so made my own pattern pieces and made some. I took inspiration from the side pockets and added a flapped pocket on the left and a single (vertical) zipped pocket on the right. Yes the zip is supposed to be vertical; firstly as a feature and secondly for comfort when sitting. The rear is shaped with two small darts above the pockets.
The front zip fly is easy to construct and the instructions were very clear (especially good for novice sewers). I overlocked any raw edges around the fly area (inside) to reduce bulk.
The inside leg seams were flat felled before completing the centre seam.
Finally the waistband is attached, followed by belt loops. The hem was finished and simply top stitched in place.
Talking of topstitching…..there is a lot! I used nearly a whole 100m roll of topstitching thread (obviously a bit more because of the felled seams).
The trousers fit really well around crotch and behind, although they are only semi-fitted. The legs are designed as ‘slim-fit’ but I would double check size before constructing as anyone slightly larger thighs might feel a little restricted.
Overall an enjoyable make with good quality instructions. Certainly something I will make again and it’s great having so many pockets to fill with junk!
Until next time……Happy Sewing