Posted on Sunday the 30th August 2020 by The Athenian Maker
Hi Minerva makers,
For this month’s post I was inspired by an outfit that @girlwithcurves posted in the beginning of april. In that post she is wearing a pencil checkerboard skirt and a black top, that led to the outfit I’m wearing in these pictures.
To start with, I was happy to find a fabric that looked exactly the same as the inspiration photo, this cotton drill chef’s check fabric has a 3 cm checks, it is heavyweight almost like denim so I thought it will be great for Clementine skirt by Merchant and Mills. I have made this skirt in the past so I had the pattern pieces already cut in my size.
For this version i wanted to make some changes, the first one was to omit the fly front sipper and add a plain zipper in the back, kept the front pockets as they were but omitted the back pockets, instead, I decided to add a jetted pocket on the right back, I made the jets with yellow fabric to add some color and because I liked how the yellow looked on the black and white fabric I decided to add some yellow piping in the side seams. This is the first time that I add pipping, i really like the effect it creates although it is purely made, I didn’t have pipping cord so instead, i inserted a strand of knitting wool which was a bad choice, wool is very soft and when i ironed the side seams the pipping burned completely flat as the strand of wool did not keep a round shape.
I also played a bit with the yoke, front pockets, and the waistband, i cut the back yoke and coin pocket on the bias, the front pockets, and waistband in a black cotton I had in my stash. Now, the black fabric I used was also a poor choice as it is much thinner than the cotton drill, despite the fact that I added interfacing on the waistband, it really can't cope with the cotton drill and in the front, it sags a bit at the pockets which are made out of the same fabric.
Despite these flaws I like how this skirt looks and maybe I do some more tweaks to improve it as I love how it looks on me.
I also made the top, It is the Kabuki tee by Paper Patterns, a boxy shaped tee with quite unusual and an interesting sleeve. Apart from sewing the corners on the sleeves the construction of this top is as simple as it can get. I have sewn corners in the past when I made Vogue 1404, by Ralf Rucci, the instructions and the patternmaking in that pattern was very detailed and helpful so I used what I learned from that pattern while sewing the corners in this one to achieve a good result.
I marked the pivoting point in the fabric and then i snipped the corner, this worked great in one sleeve but on the other sleeve i didn’t mark in the right point so I snipped the corner too far resulting in having a hole at that point, i fixed it somehow but it kind of bothers me that all corners are not perfect.
I have added the pivoting mark on the pattern now to make everything easier in case i make this pattern again. To do so you just have to draw parallel lines to both sides of the corners, the lines should have the distance of the seam allowance width and where these two lines meet is the the pivoting point, this mark is very simple and would be great if it was included in the pattern as it is what it takes to sew the perfect corner as you know how much to snip the corner and were exactly to pivot.
I love how these two garments look together although i expect to wear the tee much more often than the skirt as it goes with everything and is easy to wear.