Comfy Carmine Knit Jacket
Posted on Wednesday the 16th April 2014 by Sew Little Time
I have been holding out for the release of the Carmine Jacket from Cake Patterns since late last year when it was announced as part of the Red Velvet Collection. It's no secret that I am a total Cake fangirl - I have made 2 Tiras, 2 Pavlova skirts, a long sleeved and short sleeved Pavlova wrap top, 3 Red Velvet dresses, 2 Cabarita tops, 2 Hummingbird skirts and 2 Hummingbird peplum tops. Actually, am I out of fangirl and into stalker territory yet?
It seemed like a really useful little knit jacket (and is it any surprise I am planning another version already?)
The fabric is the Morgan crepe jersey that I have made 2 dresses from already (both Red Velvets which you can see here and here). I really love this fabric and would recommend it for knit beginners - it's got a good amount of stretch but is stable and easy to work with, with no curling edges. The crepe texture is really nice and there's a less textured side too (I always spend ages trying to choose which is the right side!).
The sizing follows Cake's usual method - choosing the bust size using high bust and working out the difference between high and full bust to work out the cup size (there are A-D lines on the pattern, but Steph has included directions for larger cup sizes). It took me a while to get my head around the construction - there is a shrug piece which has underarm gussets, and a circular collar which makes the collar and the lower back of the jacket. You cut the collar based on cup size too.
It went together really easily - I think this could be done (including the basted fitting of the shrug that Steph recommends) in about 2.5 hours.
I tried the stretch tricot stitch on my new machine for the first time. I wasn't sure if this was the ubiquitous lightning bolt stitch that everyone recommends for sewing knits, but it worked really well. Much more secure than my long narrow zig zag i have always used. It's quite slow though - sewing round the outer edge of that huge collar piece took a while! As the jersey was stable, I didn't use my walking foot. And even my overlocker (or overlord as she is now known) played ball! You might want to add a tag at the back neckline - I had a small panic when trying on after I had added the button and buttonhole that I had totally messed with the fit, but then realised I had put it on upside down (doh!).
I added the button on quite low down to pull it in at the waist a bit, as I think this is more flattering on me, which gives a more dramatic collar. Vicki from Minerva (the Buttonmaster General) helped me pick this fab burgundy "selfmade" button for it, and this is a great opportunity to showcase an excellent single button you might have in your button box.
This makes a great cardigan for this time of year, and it'll be a really useful jacket when the weather heats up a bit.
I have shown it here worn with a previous Minerva make - my Kelly skirt, but it goes just as well with jeans and dresses.
If you want to recreate this jacket, you can buy everything you need in my materials list which includes 3m of the jersey (enough to cut the collar piece twice if you mess it up - ask me how I know!) and a "selfmade" button.