Posted on Wednesday the 24th May 2017 by Duncan Carter
After tops, bags, jackets and jumpers it was time to tackle the neglected bottom half this month!
Contrast Chinos (with Tartan Details)
I’d been eyeing up this Sewing Pattern
for a while and decided to do a funky twist on the classic style by incorporating some bright, contrasting tartan for the details. I opted to try out a “proper” Jeans Rivet
for the first time.
From the front, these look like an unassuming pair of chinos but the patch pockets, facings and back yoke spice it up - you might not see my coming but you’ll definitely see me leaving!
The green Cotton Drill Fabric
is quite heavy weight and durable: the final product feels like a pair of jeans. I interfaced the Tartan Fabric
since it was a good deal lighter than the drill and needed a little stabilising.
I hadn’t done a zip fly in a while and was a bit worried about that, but it came out perfectly. I was actually surprised at how well it went! The pattern talks you through everything, including sewing some bar tacks in the places where the garment might experience stress and strain.
Installing the rivet turned out to be easier than sewing on a button! You’ll need a small hammer and a chopping board or something similar to rest everything on while you give it a bang. And warn anyone else who might be in the room before you start hammering (sorry to my flatmate!)
There are a lot of flat fell seams in the garment. These were a delight to sew and they give a professional looking finish while adding strength to your seams. If you’ve never sewn flat fell seams before I’d recommend starting on a heavy fabric like this. I did them on a super-lightweight shirt last year and it nearly led to tears!
The only confusing part was attaching the waistband because I had never seen this style/technique before. Basically a length of bias binding is used to encase the raw edge of the inner waistband - the first few inches are tucked up inside the front of the waistband then it flips down to reveal the binding right around the waist before tucking back up into the corner at the other end. I can’t figure out why this exists, other than it looks quite interesting! I guess it also makes for a less bulky seam, especially on heavier fabrics. You can see I overlocked some of the edges too for a neat finish.
I’m taking a short break from the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network over summer but will hopefully be back in the autumn to showcase some new garments for you.
Until then, happy sewing and have a great summer!