Posted on Thursday the 4th May 2017 by How Good Is That
Do you ever wonder…can I really do this on my own? After attending such an intensive workshop, I wondered if I could still use my newly honed couture skills without Susan Khalje’s actual help. This month’s Minerva Crafts project has shown me that I can.
When I initially ordered this lovely guipure Lace Fabric, I ordered extra for another project but I wasn’t sure what the project would be. This strapless cocktail dress was my project of choice.
The bodice uses the foundation bodice from my February Cocktail Dress (Vogue 1174).
The skirt is the one I used in my March Sewing Project (Simplicity 1460).
This guipure lace is woven with a lovely curved border and I again used scalloped border on the skirt hem.
For this project, I cut into the lace across the top of the bodice for more wow.
Getting the dimensions right is all in the prep work for this little cocktail number.
Once I had placed the lace onto the dress, I was a bit disappointed that the flowers pointed down however the flower base points were balanced well across the bodice so I took advantage of this and cut into the lace for a more striking bodice edge.
These Prym tools really keep my sewing more accurate and looking more refined that I’ve done in the past. Prym’s red dot tools are ergonomically designed and the Prym Love range are just as well designed and very easy to find when you’re in the ‘throes of sewing up a storm’.
Prep Work and Netflix
On both the front bodice and front skirt, I thread-basted the centre front seam. This made aligning the lace work more accurate and helped balance the lace features of this dress.
From my experience you need at least two boxes of pins to secure this type of lace onto your base fabric.
The back of this dress has the full lace across the bodice.
There’s a lot of lace hand sewing to reduce the shadowing that happens when you layer lace over satin. Believe me when I say there’s loads of applique stitching that took a good day to complete. It was during this time that Netflix became my BFF.
After making my February cocktail dress I decided to add a nicer looking foundation piece. One side of this foundation bodice is calico with 5cm seam allowances for the boning. The side you can see uses the lining fabric so the inside is a lovely as the outside of the dress.
It turns out that as awesome as this foundation piece is, the dress was fitted to me without the foundation piece so after diligently hand sewing this to the dress, I couldn’t close the zipper so I had to take out the foundation bodice. No great loss. I can still use this for a future dress, but I’ll build the dress around the foundation bodice.
Now this is the part I needed an expert to check how well the dress fit on me. I went to Bobbin & Ink and the lovely Juliet checked the dress fit and we discovered I needed to add a bit of room at the zipper waist.
When I rechecked my toile pattern pieces, I had the adjusted seam line drawn in a lighter colour, hence this adjustment was the same as I had done in February.
If I was taller then I would wear clothes that have more flow and drape. However, I just don’t have the height or shape to wear lots of drape and feel confident. I always admire others who can wear clothes with lots of drape but at the end of the day, they don’t work for me.
The fit of the bodice is quite firm so while there’s no boning in the seam, the four layers of fabric keep this dress in place. It doesn’t slip and slide and the dress is very heavy.
I will add the boning to the seams later this month because I don’t think I could wear this with confidence without boning.
Couture sewing takes time and I’m really enjoying it. I prefer not to hand stitch but when the results are this good, I’d be kicking myself to not use my couture sewing skills more often.
The final results are so satisfying. Taking the to make special outfits will make it easier to agree to more formal functions in the future because I now have some really lovely outfits that I’ve made with the help of Minerva Crafts fabric and notion range.