Cropped Clare Jacket Hack
Posted on Friday the 17th March 2017 by Lady Sewalot
Hello all! Today’s Minerva Make is quite an interesting one, if I do say so myself. When I saw this Fur Backed Suede Fabric online I thought it would make a perfect cropped jacket. It would be super cosy and I wouldn’t even need to line it, because the fur is there already! Easy peasy.
As with all projects, it ended up being a little more complicated than I first thought, but I worked on this project in short bursts of time over a couple of days which give me time to think the next step through. I started with the Clare Coat Sewing Pattern as this jacket was inspired by her version with an exposed zip.
I thought that I’d simply shorten the body pieces, cut it out, put it together, try it on and then go from there. I ended up tapering in the seams of the side panel so it essentially ended up as a triangle with a point at the bottom. I thought that a bit of fancy top-stitching wouldn’t go amiss so did a lot of that, partially for visual purposes and partially to keep the seam allowance down.
I’m really happy with the length at the back (I left it a bit longer than the front) because with a lot of the cropped stuff that I own the back tends to be far too short and this length is perfect for me.
I spent a lot of time thinking about how to deal with the collar. I ended up cutting out only 1 collar piece instead of 2 because I wanted to keep the suede outside and fleecy inside. It was sewn right sides together, then I trimmed the seam allowance underneath, whip-stitching the top seam allowance down which created an almost invisible seam.
I ended up whip-stitching most of the seam allowances down to try and keep them flat, and that’s what I ended up doing with the sleeve hems and body hem as well. I’m not sure about the whip-stitched hems, so I might topstitch them to match the side seams.
The fleecy inside makes the jacket super super cosy although the raw edges shed like crazy.
To finish the top of the collar I turned the fleecy side over to the suede side about 1cm and whip-stitched that. That way when the collar is open, the edge is clean. I could have turned the suede side over to the fleecy side but then there would have been a black outline around the collar and I didn’t want that.
The exposed zip was really easy to insert with Heather Lou’s instructions at the back of my mind. The zip was just a bit too long so I just trimmed off the excess at the top. I need to get some thick yarn to sew over the teeth a couple times to act as a stopper for the zip, because if I do the zip up all the way at the moment the slider would slide straight off the zip.
Below you can see the side seam topstitching and the bit of topstitching I did on the sleeves. I think a topstitched hem would look neater than the little pricks from the needle.
I’m really pleased with my jacket, and although the collar is not of the traditional leather jacket style I love it much more. I look forward to wearing this jacket constantly throughout the spring. The only thing missing is pockets, but I think it’s just a bit too cropped for side seam pockets. I might somehow add some patch pockets to the inside for the basic necessities like keys and a phone.
Thanks for reading, to Minerva Crafts providing all the supplies used for this make and to MK for taking photos!