Disaster in a Dress
Posted on Tuesday the 23rd December 2014 by House of Pinheiro
I wanted to make an easy christmas dress for my last MCBN of the year and was intrigued by Burda 6858, some of the new Burda patterns I bought on a recent sale. The long sleeves and maxi skirt really appealed to me specially the side cut-outs. Not having a picture or diagram of the back on the pattern envelop should have given me a clue: Danger!Danger!
When sewing a new pattern is like exploring unknown territory. I know that pattern tours or testing can get boring on a blog feeds but reading all the different perspectives can help so much.
The envelop lacks a lot of information that is presented in some shape or form inside the pattern. Instructions are better than from the magazine. The order of sewing is extremely odd. But that's nothing: you can always learn how to do something differently and pick what works for you.
The sizing was super confusing. The finish sleeve size was said to be 61cm. Mine is 66 cm so I needed to add 5 cm, but when I looked/measure the pattern (I measure raglan length from the underarm side seam to the end of sleeve) it was clear that the current size was fitting me fine. As like finishing my knit sleeves with cuffs so I actually took 3 cm length from the pattern and turned them into cuffs.
In European pattern size scale I can go from 38-40-42 and looking at the
pattern size chart I went with 42. Mistake
number one. It was so large that I had to trim a few sizes
down. I managed to get the neck and shoulder fitting ok. The sleeves look
twisted in some pictures but that is mainly me
moving jumping like a lunatic to keep
warm between pictures. Knits are easy to rescue, so don't fear them!
I did lengthen the bodice front and back by 4 cm. If I didn't the cut outs would have been on top of my boobs. The back just cover my bra band after the change. So this pattern runs large in width but short in bodice lengthen with extreme long arms. The skirt is view C.
Am I right to assume the "young" range is drafted like a petite or shorter height that normal? I think so.
The front cut-outs are OK. The main issue with the pattern is the back and I think there is drafting oversight. There is nothing to stop the back riding up and the back skirt sliding down. Unless you want it so skin tight that when you sit, everything will spill over the cut outs. To be totally honest, even with my 'tight and short' personal style, this turned out way to hoockerish!
The front of the dress isn't that bad, but the back needs some modifications to actually turn this dress wearable instead of 'editorial'. This style of dress is everywhere. I debated for days if I was going to share the picture of the back but I decided that I cannot. It's way too horrible for the internet so you got to trust me on that. This dress was a mess.
Realistic now, If I cannot share pictures that means is something that I shouldn't really be wearing in public. In a cutting rage, I sliced the dress just above the cut-outs and joined the skirt. Took 5 mins. The whole dress is actually very quick to make.
The rescue dress is OK. It's not as fancy as I wanted but it's wearable. The fabric I used is beautiful. I been wearing it loads at home or even for errants. It's just a empire waist mini. Not my usual style but at least I'm not embarrassed to be seen wearing it. I could turn this pattern in a sweater, but I already have two in my stash. Not sure If I am making this pattern again.