Dream Oversized Chambray Shirt
Posted on Tuesday the 16th January 2018 by ym.sews
I have sewn many Archer shirts through my relatively short sewing career. I love wearing shirts to work, and outside of work... paired with jeans, leggings, smart work trousers or tucked into skirts. They are just so versatile. The Archer pattern has to be my all time favourite shirt pattern (and I've tried a few!). There is a detailed sew-along on the Grainline Studio blog holding your hand in step by step photos and even a couple of videos of the more complicated steps such as creating a cleanly finished yoke with no seams on the inside (the wonderful "burrito method" of sewing a shirt yoke is as fun as it sounds I guarantee you!).
When I was in South Korea last summer I saw lots of shirts with horizontal seams across the front of the shirt, and I thought they looked so stylish. Some of the shirts would use the bias of the print in the upper shirt to create a different look. One I noticed in particular had a secret horizontal inseam pocket inserted. Genius! I made a note of this detail and stashed it away in the sewing planning section of my brain.
When it came to choosing my Minerva Crafts blogger network makes I knew I wanted to include a shirt, and the horizontal seam pocket detail came flooding back to me! So I set about hunting for the perfect shirting on the Minerva website. I wanted a chambray style shirt, and when I came across this stripe print cotton Chambray Denim Fabric
I knew I had found the perfect match for my dream oversized boxy shirt (...with inseam horizontal pockets!). I chose the indigo colourway.
As soon as the fabric arrived I was extremely excited, it really was perfect with a soft handle and the perfect weight for a shirt. It was also not too crisp, something I always worry about when ordering shirting online. Seriously this stuff is perfect! You could even make a dress using this fabric and I don't think you would have to line it, it is quite opaque.
To make my dream oversized shirt I straightened out the side seams of my already traced Archer shirt pieces. I then drew a horizontal line coming from the centre front placket to the side seam on the left and right front pieces. Next up I traced off the upper shirt front (above the horizontal line) and lower shirt front (below the horizontal line) pieces and added seam allowances to the horizontal seam section. Phew! I hope you're all still following along and I haven't lost you! Next up I free style drew the shape of the pocket I wanted to insert, with the horizontal seam shape at the top of the pocket.
In terms of sewing the shirt together I followed pretty much all of the packet instructions with a few alterations for my modifications.
First I sewed the pocket pieces to the upper and lower front pieces right sides together and pressed them open. Then I sewed the upper to the lower front piece along the new horizontal seam and around the pocket right sides together. Voila! You have a horizontal in seam pocket! I then continued to follow the regular instructions sewing the button placket at the centre front.
I *love* my finished shirt in all its oversized glory! Plus to have secret horizontal seam front pockets is brilliant, not that they are that practical for stashing stuff, but still. It's a unique design feature that makes me smile!
P.s. I'm wearing my Archer shirt here with some leggings I made for a previous Minerva blog post which you can find here
if you're interested. The fabric is still available!